foxfire,

Without seeing and handling the gun its hard to say if there is anything wrong with it at all.  If the rifle cycles cartridges there probably isnt much that wrong with the internal parts, just shoot a squirt of gun oil down the action and all’s well, and clean the bore.  So long as the bore is good, clean, unobstructed, and not bulged it will probably work.  There arent too many parts that fail.  The main issue with the 1892’s you see alot is the hammer face gets worn down and the hammer has a tendency to not properly engage the sear because the bolt doesnt push it back far enough to the rear or cocked position and on the closing stroke of the lever to close the bolt, the hammer has a tendency to follow behind the bolt past the safety sear and striking the firing pen when the bolt is completely closed, resulting in an accidental discharge.  That can be tested (while the gun is unloaded of course) by dry cycling and seeing if the hammer stays back and catches the hammer sear or not.  That said, a gunsmith would be the place to take it if you dont feel comfortable about the gun. 

Regarding the forend screws, unless you really want to replace the two forearm screws, would probably just leave them as they are.  You could also apply some Kroil from a gunshop or PB Balaster from the auto parts store to see if you can get them freed up to replace.  You can find replacement forearm screws online. 

There’s another way to skin that cat if youve got a few basic tools.  Depending on what magazine tube end cap you have (early slotted with small screw or later with screw that passes through the end cap and insets in the base of the barrel) you can remove the end cap screw and end cap and remove cartridges that was as well without having to touch the forend screws or forearm, just let them drop out the end of the magazine when the cap is removed.  There is pretty good tension on the magazine tube spring so hold onto the end cap or it may fly across the room.  Most often though is the end cap is also froze.  If you try to turn a screwdriver head in the slot of the end cap you could damage the slot.  Use some PB Blaster on the end cap to loosen any rust.  Its a wiggling process to the left and right from there – Ive used a small punch placed in the threaded screw hole of the end cap to start slowly working it back and forth to break free then pry up a little at a time slowly, however you have to be very careful not to damage the end of the magazine tube.  Tricky process, and once it starts to move out of the magazine tube end, use the head of a larger screwdriver to place between the ledge of the magazine tube end and end cap twisting the screwdriver to the left and right where the corners of the screwdriver engage each ledge and slowly twist (pry) from each side.  Never pry up/down or you will likely damage the end of the magazine tube.  If it will not come out, Ive also removed the retaining band pin and sprayed oil generous amounts of PB on the band then tried to break free in the same manner by placing a punch a slightly smaller diameter as the threaded hole in the magazine tube end cap to start rotating the magazine tube to the left and right till it breaks free from the magazine retaining band, then once broke free you can slide the tube out the end.  be sure to use lots of lube so you dont scratch the magazine tube finish.  Its not for the faint of heart.

Ive had to remove cartridges in that manner on an old rifle found in the corner of an old abandoned farm house that had about an inch of rust and dirt that was caked on to the outside of the gun (wish I had taken before and after photos) that was so caked with dirt and rust you couldnt delineate the magazine tube from the barrel, and the bolt/receiver was froze.  Lucky enough I could get that end cap screw out to unload it so where I could begin chipping away at 80 years of rust and dirt. 

I dont think you would have to take out the magazine tube retaining band pin for cartridges to slide out the end of the mag tube if the end cap is off.   Never found a broken or damaged magazine tube spring in any Win.  They are pretty tough and most often no one tinkers with them. 

foxfire said
Great information. Thanks!! Can’t for the life of me figure how the screw heads/slots are gone on a rifle in very good overall shape. The bore is pristine!! My guess was the magazine spring had to be replaced at some point and they effed up the screws in the process!?!?!?  

Sent you a PM.  Didnt want to hijack this page further with repair stuff.

https://auctions.thegunrunner.com/lots/view/1-2R3G52/winchester-model-92-32-20-cal-lever-action-rifle-button-mag-22-barrel-1915

pretty slow month on that site……….