Best Regards,

Chuck said
You heat the brass just to the point where it turns orange or stars giving off an orange glow.  DO NOT quench it.  Quenching hardens the brass.  Air dry only. Watch some of these videos.
annealing brass - Search
  

I wondered about that. My knowledge of metals chemistry is very limited but I know a water quench renders metals hard and brittle, to some degree.

Since beginning to reload in the mid-Sixties, I've read about annealing techniques during which the heat is killed by knocking the cases over into the pan of water used to protect the heads.  I think people do it to speed up the process and make room for more cases

My Dad was trained to work metal as a machinist and welder. He thought the annealed portion of the cases should air cool to stay dead soft. 

Are your sure that is not a 1918 Artillery Model?  That is what it looks like to me. But I am certainly no expert, I just sit on them....

Best Regards,

If you do decide to sell it, I am your buyer.  It would pair nicely with my matching 697.

Best Regards,

What caliber is it chambered in?

I'm guessing 38-55?

Sincerely,

Maverick

Sincerely,

Maverick

Bob

Henry Mero said
My thoughts prayers and rememberances to Anyone on the forum involved, on that very unforgettable day in American/Canadian history.
  

Henry,

I will never forget that Day! 

Tony

Fairly  sure  I knew the  scopes assembly  would be  costly.

Now I  Just  want  to  get it back to where I can  get it  in shooting  condition. Will be on the  look out  for the sights, might  take a while, and as I said  It Might be My Christmas Present to myself if  found.

 Got the  Book coming from Amazon. Going to be  great  reading.

Had a $20 gift card from  Red Cross Blood Donation so  great timing.

Hoosier Dave

1873man said
Tony you started a good thread here. We all are learning something new. I looked through my parts box and found another style of bushing so I started to look through my guns and I found that the first models have the scallops and not a slot. Where you would need a special tool to remove it. The one with the slot is second model.  I don't know if there is a exact serial number that they changed  but its between 27,000 and 40,000 from a quick look through my gun safe. Tonight I will have more time to look.
Bob

Bob,

Very intriguing. IMHO! You're pictures show us a lot!

Now as I look, I can see the small scallops, vs. the slots! You're picture of the slotted second model bushing, shows the courser threads, as I guessed they would be a finer thread. That's the second guess I had wrong in this thread post! LOL!

I'm thinking maybe due to the B/P, that Winchester figured due to moisture seepage into the threads, over time, that the courser threads would be more applicable.

That surely would require a special tool, as a spanner wrench comes to mind as we used to use, for things as were needed. But a specially made hardened tool, wouldn't be out of the question. Something seewin would make in his shop, as he saw a need for, if he chose. Back in the day before we had the "Crow Foot" wrenches, we would take an extra, open end wrench and cut them on the band saw, and make our own version of a "Crow foot" wrench, welding an old socket we cut apart for the 1/2 inch square drive section to fit on an extension, to remove the hydraulic lines, that we're stacked up against a bank of hose fittings on the hydraulic control valves, on a said machine as we needed. I remember years ago talking to George Madis on the phone about his tractor, and telling him that story. He had that chuckle for a laugh, that I'll never forget. Crazy as we would submerse the hot parts we made in oil, to harden them, somewhat. Still have those old homemade tools and such, as we'll wind up handing them down to a couple youngsters we're schooling. 

Looking forward to you're added information.

Tony