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Chuck said
I’m not sure I like that barrel. Too many cracks in addition to the pits.
I will clean it, then send another vedio.
Thanks Chuck
I’m not sure cleaning will help. How did you record the video and put in on this site? I have a Teslong bore scope with their monitor.
Chuck said
I’m not sure cleaning will help. How did you record the video and put in on this site? I have a Teslong bore scope with their monitor.
I have a Teslong and displayed it on my computer then I recorded the monitor by my phone. I am not good with file transfer.
Thanks
Sam56 said
Chuck said
I’m not sure cleaning will help. How did you record the video and put in on this site? I have a Teslong bore scope with their monitor.
I have a Teslong and displayed it on my computer then I recorded the monitor by my phone. I am not good with file transfer.
Thanks
Thanks. I need to see how I could do this. I don’t know if the cord that came with the Teslong will plug into my computer? Maybe they make one that will plug into my phone or computer?
Chuck said
Sam56 said
Chuck said
I’m not sure cleaning will help. How did you record the video and put in on this site? I have a Teslong bore scope with their monitor.
I have a Teslong and displayed it on my computer then I recorded the monitor by my phone. I am not good with file transfer.
Thanks
Thanks. I need to see how I could do this. I don’t know if the cord that came with the Teslong will plug into my computer? Maybe they make one that will plug into my phone or computer?
Hi Chuck
I have the rigid type. If I plug it directly to the computer it does not work. So it I took out the sd card from the Teslong monitor and put it in a sc card adaptor then plugged it in the computer.
Hope that will help.
Sam
Chuck said
I’m not sure I like that barrel. Too many cracks in addition to the pits.
Hi Chuck
It seems these cracks are old carbon ‘>40 years’. They seem to disappear after I cleaned it with solvent. But I see a lot of rust. I made a vedio I will try to send it tomorrow.
That’s good to hear. Use some gun oil like Break Free in the barrel and let it sit. After cleaning, and if the gun is safe, just shoot any rust that is left out.
Chuck said
That’s good to hear. Use some gun oil like Break Free in the barrel and let it sit. After cleaning, and if the gun is safe, just shoot any rust that is left out.
This is part of the vedio.
Your comments?
Thanks
Chuck said
Didn’t see what I thought were cracks. Just pitting.
The cracks seems to be cracked old carbon deposits.
Hard carbon can be really hard to get out. Often you have to use a bore paste like JB or Iosso. If this were a new stainless barrel I would say scrub away but if your gun shoots well I’d be inclined not to use an abrasive paste.
I have had very good luck removing carbon with the following method:
1) To protect the action, on non bolt guns, I put the gun in the cleaning stand upside down so any excess liquids, cleaning solutions or debris will fall out of the action and not into the action. This is especially important for badly soiled barrels.
2) Depending on how bad the barrel is, I will run a nylon brush down the barrel with Hoppes #9 to remove any loose materials and the clean with a dry patch or two.
3) Run patch down barrel soaked with Kroil Oil and let sit for at least 15 minutes.This penetrates the carbon and helps the JB to remove it with less scrubbing.
3) If it badly soiled, run a clean patch down and repeat with a heavily soaked patch with Kroil Oil and let sit and soak in for at least 15 minutes.
4) Using a Dewey Parker style rifle cleaning jag and larger patches, I smear JB non-embedding bore cleaning compound to the back of a patch along one side and wrap the patch around the jag (opposite of rifling to keep it from unraveling) using the smear as a way to hold it in place. Once wrapped a liberally apply paste to the entire patch until it is completely soaked and covered.
5) Make sure to use a crown protector to prevent any damage from the rod, I run the rod down to the end of the barrel still in the rifling being careful not to exit the barrel into the chamber as it will unravel the patch and then work it back and forth about 10 inches at least 10 times, then slowly expand the stroke 5-10 inches for 5 strokes until I get to the muzzle. The purpose for the short strokes is that most of the carbon will be near the chamber for about 8-10 inches. This concentrates the abrasive paste where it is needed and less where it isn’t to protect the rifling.
(Note: When I am working on lever guns, I find it helps to run the rod with the jag down the barrel until it just gets to the end of the rifling, then wrap a piece of masking tape around the cleaning rod to identify the end of the rifling before I load up the patch.)
6) I then clean with dry patches and follow up with the nylon brush and Hoppes #9 to remove all the paste followed by dry patch till clean
7) Inspect with the bore scope and repeat until clean.
I have used this method on old rifles and I use it regularly on my competition rifle which has more than 3200 rounds down the pipe with no damage or ill effect. I don’t try to remove all the copper either. I look at it as a filler for the imperfections that appear from the violent explosion that takes place in the barrel ever time pull the trigger.
I hope that this helps.
Patrick Colahan said
I have had very good luck removing carbon with the following method:1) To protect the action, on non bolt guns, I put the gun in the cleaning stand upside down so any excess liquids, cleaning solutions or debris will fall out of the action and not into the action. This is especially important for badly soiled barrels.
2) Depending on how bad the barrel is, I will run a nylon brush down the barrel with Hoppes #9 to remove any loose materials and the clean with a dry patch or two.
3) Run patch down barrel soaked with Kroil Oil and let sit for at least 15 minutes.This penetrates the carbon and helps the JB to remove it with less scrubbing.
3) If it badly soiled, run a clean patch down and repeat with a heavily soaked patch with Kroil Oil and let sit and soak in for at least 15 minutes.
4) Using a Dewey Parker style rifle cleaning jag and larger patches, I smear JB non-embedding bore cleaning compound to the back of a patch along one side and wrap the patch around the jag (opposite of rifling to keep it from unraveling) using the smear as a way to hold it in place. Once wrapped a liberally apply paste to the entire patch until it is completely soaked and covered.
5) Make sure to use a crown protector to prevent any damage from the rod, I run the rod down to the end of the barrel still in the rifling being careful not to exit the barrel into the chamber as it will unravel the patch and then work it back and forth about 10 inches at least 10 times, then slowly expand the stroke 5-10 inches for 5 strokes until I get to the muzzle. The purpose for the short strokes is that most of the carbon will be near the chamber for about 8-10 inches. This concentrates the abrasive paste where it is needed and less where it isn’t to protect the rifling.
(Note: When I am working on lever guns, I find it helps to run the rod with the jag down the barrel until it just gets to the end of the rifling, then wrap a piece of masking tape around the cleaning rod to identify the end of the rifling before I load up the patch.)
6) I then clean with dry patches and follow up with the nylon brush and Hoppes #9 to remove all the paste followed by dry patch till clean
7) Inspect with the bore scope and repeat until clean.
I have used this method on old rifles and I use it regularly on my competition rifle which has more than 3200 rounds down the pipe with no damage or ill effect. I don’t try to remove all the copper either. I look at it as a filler for the imperfections that appear from the violent explosion that takes place in the barrel ever time pull the trigger.
I hope that this helps.
Wow great information. Thanks Patrick
I bought a bore scope just a little over a month ago to use on my target guns. I had shot my 308 around 1300 rounds and had always cleaned it until I got pure white patches. Boy was I surprised. I now clean this gun at least 3 times every time I shoot it and still have carbon. Once I get through 1 layer of carbon there is copper. Once the copper is gone I work on the next layer of carbon. I’ve tried more cleaners that I want to list.
I have never seen this in one of my lever actions.
Chuck said
I bought a bore scope just a little over a month ago to use on my target guns. I had shot my 308 around 1300 rounds and had always cleaned it until I got pure white patches. Boy was I surprised. I now clean this gun at least 3 times every time I shoot it and still have carbon. Once I get through 1 layer of carbon there is copper. Once the copper is gone I work on the next layer of carbon. I’ve tried more cleaners that I want to list.I have never seen this in one of my lever actions.
When I first got me bore scope, my first look at my competition barrel, I freaked out. Then after talking to the other shooters, realized it is all the same and as long as the gun is shooting well, don’t worry about it. Now I am no big time competitor, I shoot F-Class TR at Midrange and do pretty good, but only shoot at my club. I do get to shoot with some national champs in F-Open Long distance and it is humbling. But fun to compete in my mind any way.
I use to be concerned about removing all the carbon and copper from my High Power competition rifle. Then realized that I still had to run about half a dozen rounds down the pipe to fowl it before it shot correctly again.
So now, I don’t worry about the little stuff. I just do the process I outlined above, check to make sure there are no, what I would call chunks, highly technical I know, and let it go. Many are amazed that I use JB every time. Started that at about 1800 rounds. Have not seen any loss of accuracy whats so ever. Just ordered a new Brux barrel as I know this one is on its way out. Lead time is 8 months, hope my current barrel lasts. I intend to use this process from day one.
One thing that I forgot to add, my final step is to run a patch of CLP down the barrel followed by a couple of dry patches and call it good.
As for your lever guns. We rarely run but a few rounds down the pipe compared to a competition rifle. A single relay is 22 rounds and we shoot 3 relays in a match. A lot of heat and of course, at least for me, I am shooting a pretty hot .308 round with a 185 target round at 2745 fps out a 30″, 1:10 barrel. A hunting barrel would not survive such abuse.
Patrick Colahan said
When I first got me bore scope, my first look at my competition barrel, I freaked out. Then after talking to the other shooters, realized it is all the same and as long as the gun is shooting well, don’t worry about it. Now I am no big time competitor, I shoot F-Class TR at Midrange and do pretty good, but only shoot at my club. I do get to shoot with some national champs in F-Open Long distance and it is humbling. But fun to compete in my mind any way.
I use to be concerned about removing all the carbon and copper from my High Power competition rifle. Then realized that I still had to run about half a dozen rounds down the pipe to fowl it before it shot correctly again.
So now, I don’t worry about the little stuff. I just do the process I outlined above, check to make sure there are no, what I would call chunks, highly technical I know, and let it go. Many are amazed that I use JB every time. Started that at about 1800 rounds. Have not seen any loss of accuracy whats so ever. Just ordered a new Brux barrel as I know this one is on its way out. Lead time is 8 months, hope my current barrel lasts. I intend to use this process from day one.
One thing that I forgot to add, my final step is to run a patch of CLP down the barrel followed by a couple of dry patches and call it good.
As for your lever guns. We rarely run but a few rounds down the pipe compared to a competition rifle. A single relay is 22 rounds and we shoot 3 relays in a match. A lot of heat and of course, at least for me, I am shooting a pretty hot .308 round with a 185 target round at 2745 fps out a 30″, 1:10 barrel. A hunting barrel would not survive such abuse.
I follow Erik Cortina because he helps us out and tells us most of the tricks of loading. Many world class F Class shooters and Bench Rest shooters clean to an absolutely clean barrel after every round and match. I am a little worried about abrasives so mine is not there yet. They make products to run through your bore after cleaning to replicate a fouled bore situation. I believe they are a graphite solution. It is supposed to fill in the small cracks. I shoot at least 4 foulers before I start collecting data. It takes this many just to get my barrel up to temp. I use a 26″ Barlein 1:9 twist barrel. I’m shooting a 308 with 155 grain Berger Hybrids at 2850 FPS. I did find some powder nodes at lesser speeds but was hoping to shoot this round out to 1760 yds. It will go that far but my Nightforce scope will only give me about 84 MOA of elevation which is about 6 MOA too little. My 6.5 Creedmoor with 147 grain Hornady ELD-M’s produce enough speed to shoot to a mile and my scope can dial this in.
Chuck said
I follow Erik Cortina because he helps us out and tells us most of the tricks of loading. Many world class F Class shooters and Bench Rest shooters clean to an absolutely clean barrel after every round and match. I am a little worried about abrasives so mine is not there yet. They make products to run through your bore after cleaning to replicate a fouled bore situation. I believe they are a graphite solution. It is supposed to fill in the small cracks. I shoot at least 4 foulers before I start collecting data. It takes this many just to get my barrel up to temp. I use a 26″ Barlein 1:9 twist barrel. I’m shooting a 308 with 155 grain Berger Hybrids at 2850 FPS. I did find some powder nodes at lesser speeds but was hoping to shoot this round out to 1760 yds. It will go that far but my Nightforce scope will only give me about 84 MOA of elevation which is about 6 MOA too little. My 6.5 Creedmoor with 147 grain Hornady ELD-M’s produce enough speed to shoot to a mile and my scope can dial this in.
I watch Erik also. I have also noted that they don’t always follow the same regiment in cleaning that they show on their channel. I think they are a lot like the rest of us. Always looking for what will do the job. There must be hundreds of ways to approach the same thing. My method has worked exceptionally well for me. I have taught it to others and some tell me it has helped their rifles come back to the performer they were.
Pretty fast round, a couple of the shooters at my club have been on the US Palma team. They have told me they shoot the 155 gr Palma’s at 3000 fps. I am at 2745 with a 185 gr Berger Juggernauts and show no sign of pressure issues. I can get about 10-15 firings out of my Lapua cases before the Large Primer pockets start to loosen. Going to the Palma brass (Small Primer) next year, well as soon as I can find some brass.
To the OP, sorry for hijacking your thread.
Patrick Colahan said
Pretty fast round, a couple of the shooters at my club have been on the US Palma team. They have told me they shoot the 155 gr Palma’s at 3000 fps. I am at 2745 with a 185 gr Berger Juggernauts and show no sign of pressure issues. I can get about 10-15 firings out of my Lapua cases before the Large Primer pockets start to loosen. Going to the Palma brass (Small Primer) next year, well as soon as I can find some brass.
To the OP, sorry for hijacking your thread.
Good luck finding Lapua brass. Capstone put out a notice that because of the war effort quite a bit of the commercial brass production has been stopped. I shoot Palma brass in my 6.5 and 308. I checked availability yesterday and no one has brass.
I guess at some point I’ll be bringing some of my old guns out of the safe to shoot instead.
Chuck said
Good luck finding Lapua brass. Capstone put out a notice that because of the war effort quite a bit of the commercial brass production has been stopped. I shoot Palma brass in my 6.5 and 308. I checked availability yesterday and no one has brass.
I guess at some point I’ll be bringing some of my old guns out of the safe to shoot instead.
I still have 200 cases of the Lapua Winchester brass. But will keep my eye out for the Palma. I have a couple of non conventional resources that still seem to come by it. How I don’t know.
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