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It looks to be already opened up enough to put a oil or penetrant in it with out cutting. I’m use to seeing the old Winchesters were the forearm is a complete hole through the forearm. If it were mine I would go with a good penetrant that will break down the rust. Once its off I would worry about looks. The forearm my never fit correctly because it might have a permanent set to it.
Bob
WACA Life Member--- NRA Life Member---- Cody Firearms member since 1991 Researching the Winchester 1873's
Email: [email protected]
Sam56 said
Hi BobI am opting for the cutting of the forearm. I am attaching some close up shots of the forearm.
Thanks
Sam, I’m sorry. I didn’t realize that the tube went through a hole in the stock. I’d still try soaking like Bob has said. I wouldn’t worry about cracking from the oil.
What kind of penetrating oil should I use. I have liquid wrench,PB blaster, brake clean. Which one do you recommend.
I have used PB blaster, Kroil, WD 40 and a couple others over the years and I really haven’t noticed one being much better than the other. Be patient keep soaking, twisting and tapping. I ran major construction projects and all of the metal workers used Kroil. Brake clean is not a penetrating oil.
If you do end up relieving the wood make sure not to do it on the ends where it can be seen. Not only will you be able to get more oil in the cut it may relieve some of the grip on the wood???
I’m glad I’m not having to do this.
Hi all
I have opted to wait on the cutting of a slot in the forearm as a last resort. I just applied a penetrating oil on the the inside of the forearm and on the small cracks in it. I will let it soak till tomorrow.
Also I removed the rust from the barrel and will send photos tomorrow.
I had it soaked for 2 days and after tapping and twisting still didn’t dislodge.
So today I went for the last resort of slitting the middle of the forearm. With initial tapping and twisting still didn’t budge. May be still early to judge!
I am inclosing some photos.
Appreciate any suggestion.
Thanks
Sam
Keep it wet and mess with it every day. Don’t be discouraged if it takes weeks. In the car world people use Krud Kutter from Home Depot, Evapo Rust from Home Depot, Molassas solution sold at Tractor Supply. The acid in apple cider or white vinegar can work.
I have never used any of these.
Chuck said
Keep it wet and mess with it every day. Don’t be discouraged if it takes weeks.
It moved 1 /4 ” by tapping left then right.
Sam56 said
Chuck said
Keep it wet and mess with it every day. Don’t be discouraged if it takes weeks.
It moved 1 /4 ” by tapping left then right.
That’s a good sign. Use something to protect the tube where you are tapping. Keep all the surface wet and move the tube back and forth. Hopefully this will get more fluid into the corroded areas and eventually be able to remove the tube.
Sam56 said
Is it easy to get the oil out of the forearm later on?
Not really, You have to use low level heat from an oven to cook the oil out and it could go bad as well.
Bob
WACA Life Member--- NRA Life Member---- Cody Firearms member since 1991 Researching the Winchester 1873's
Email: [email protected]
Salt wood
Bob
WACA Life Member--- NRA Life Member---- Cody Firearms member since 1991 Researching the Winchester 1873's
Email: [email protected]
TR said
If you don’t mind, how did it get so rusty? T/R
Hi TR
I don’t know the exact history of it. All I know is that it was stored in a cop board for >40 years and never been used or looked after.
1873man said
Salt woodBob
The heavy rust is inside the forearm and under the buttstock plate. There is no rust btwn the receiver and the buttstock or the forearm.
Sam56 said
The heavy rust is inside the forearm and under the buttstock plate. There is no rust btwn the receiver and the buttstock or the forearm.
The receiver will have some oils or greases that would give it some protection.
Bob
WACA Life Member--- NRA Life Member---- Cody Firearms member since 1991 Researching the Winchester 1873's
Email: [email protected]
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