Huck,

You can still work the action, just know that the carrier is a bit off line.  If the action gets harder to cycle, sticking, or stuck, just don’t force it.  With that unknown screw keeping it close to its normal position, we just don’t know what is going on in there.  The normal carrier screw is not threaded all the way.  It is bald of threads where the end of it becomes the pivot for the carrier.  I don’t know if your screw has threads in the carrier hole.  If it does, is it going to score the hole, or is the steel in the carrier just fine, wearing out the screw?  Be careful in taking my advice about that screw and the hole, I’m not a metal (some would say “mental”) guy.

This I can help you with:  When you do put in the carrier screws, they can be tricky.  If you screw them in without noticing, you likely will not hit the carrier holes properly–resulting in each turn of the screwdriver, forcing those sides of the carrier into the gap between them.  That means bending the carrier sides back to where they are supposed to be.  I haven’t done so yet, but it seems several bendings will result in a broken carrier.  So, keep an eye on the gap at the back of the carrier while you are working those screws.  Some people use a guide rod to align the holes.  Some just muscle the carrier into position–which if you are not quick about it, will pain your fingers=your fingers are working against the force of the carrier spring.  Another way is to remove the lever and the link and drop the nose of the carrier beneath the receiver until the carrier spring’s strength is not a problem and the holes align without effort.

For the experience and for the enjoyment, you might want to dismantle your rifle.  Cleaning parts would be easier that way, and if you are tainted with Winchester blood, you might just find the process to be quite pleasurable.  And you’d get to see how the rifle works.  Model ’94’s come apart and go back together easily.  Those carrier screws could be considered the most difficult step of the assembly–and you have to do that anyway!

The Link Pin should slide easily.  Check the Stop Screw–it should come to a non-threaded point.  If the screw already in there has no unthreaded point, then it is broken or the wrong screw.  Pictures here would be helpful, but I understand–correct screwdrivers.

Finger Lever Pin hole from the right side–I don’t understand what you are getting at here.  Install a hole?  –The hole on the right side above the loading gate/Spring Cover is an access hole for inserting a tool to push the Finger Lever Pin out of the Breech Bolt–the pin is pushed out the left side of the receiver (after removing the screw on the left side.)  Your rifle doesn’t seem to have a problem with the Breech Bolt and Finger Lever Pin; am I mistaken?  The right-side hole’s depth is the width of the receiver metal plus a whisper.

Lever Link Screw–The head looks out of round, but it appears the shaft is doing its job (all the way through.)  Some of your other screws are “used” looking, so it is up to you if this one is too used looking.  With that one side of the head flattened, and with the way the head doesn’t fill the hole, maybe someone did a home-made fix on it.  Maybe not the original screw?

Ejector–You see only the front end of the Ejector when the rifle is assembled.  The Ejector is in there if you see a semi-rectangular piece of metal protruding from the bolt face just below the firing pin hole.  If it isn’t there, the bolt-face will appear to have a chunk missing at six o’clock.  –Or, you insert a case or cartridge into that .38-55, work the action, and see if it ejects!  (It looks as if your ejector is in there.)

One part I haven’t seen in your photos is the firing pin.  I’m betting you have one or else you would have noticed and listed it above.

You can post in the “Swap Meet” forum of this site, asking if someone has the parts you need.  Firearms auction sites and eBay should be a help in finding parts.  If on eBay, just look at the photos and buy parts with the wear you are think will fit your rifle.

I’ve read instructions on how to “age” parts, but that was a while back, and since I had no need to use the information–POOOF–gone.

There are folks on this site who haunt the “Restoration, Repair, and Maintenance” forum.  They will know good places to find parts and how to age them.  Asking your questions there might get you all the help you’ll need.

Huck,

I’ve had little need to chase parts, so others will have to assist you with that.

The finger lever pin rides in the bolt.  It isn’t secured/held in the receiver.  The screw on the left side acts as a plug–fills the hole for removing/inserting the FLP.

Your ejector is flush with the bolt face–You may get to take the bolt out after all.  When you open the action, that ejector front should be protruding 1/8 or maybe 3/16 of an inch beyond the bolt face.  Yours might be corroded in place.  From your description, it is shaped as it should be.

The firing pin does as you say–can push it back and forth.

Not to put pressure on you, but GET THOSE SCREWDRIVERS!  If you don’t get them soon, I may have to take apart one of my Winchesters just to find a part-cleaning/discovering release!

Many people soak parts in Kroil when they are stuck.  They also soak/clean guns in your rifle’s condition to help remove crud (such a science specific term, “crud”).

For your front sight, some old guns have coins that have been shaped to fit as a front-sight blade.  If you have a “lucky” nickel atop your dresser, a Dremel tool, fifteen minutes, and holding your tongue just right will find you with a new blade–a lucky blade at that! 

I received the parts from dane62.  Thanks!

Question for anyone: Is there something special about Winchester-specific screw drivers (i.e. softer metal or something), or can I use any screw driver that fits the slot properly?  I want to get started on this thing without ruining anything, I have a lot of screw drivers, but they are just common, over-the-counter jobs from the hardware store.  Comments?

Thanks.

You don’t need “Winchester-specific” screwdrivers but you also don’t want to use your regular mechanic’s screwdrivers or you’ll end up stripping the screw heads.  What you need is hollow ground screwdrivers and many are available for gunsmiths such as Weaver and Chapman.   The machinist screwdrivers are tapered and don’t fit the screw head slot where the hollow ground screwdriver tips are flat and will completely fill and properly fit a gun’s screw head slot, thereby nearly eliminating those slips that strip the head and scar the gun part’s surface.

Hi Folks, thanks for the tips and the links.  No, it’s about 90 miles to a store that might have them.  Although my son does need some drive time to get his license .  . .  

The Brownells sound nice, and the idea that you can selectively order a Winchester Model package is good.  Thanks again.