Log In
Members
Home
Add Reply
Add Topic
Sorry for getting on my soapbox the other day.
I really like H 4350 but I didn’t want to use it up for this project. My 6.5 needs it more. The process that I’m trying to use is not mine. I just stole it from a world class competitor. Actually he lays it all out on his Forum, Cortina Precision, Shooting Small Groups. If you research what the pro’s are using that can get you started and not waste a lot of components. I did not have that luxury with this project so I started with what I had. I’m hoping to get groups like Chris showed.
I have one of the higher charges left so I will use these to warm up and foul the barrel. I still have 4 groups at the lower charge weights to shoot. Then I’ll pick 1 or 2 to see which seems best and then play with seating depths.
Just for comparison here is a pic of my new 6.5 barrel with the 270.
November 7, 2015
Offline
Bert H. said
M64lvr said
I was using 4064 in my 30-06 for long time, but with 150gr bullets, most accurate load I’ve ever developed. I went to 165gr bullets, just feel better about them, trajectory so similar not a consideration, but down range is where the 165gr shine. Same time I decided to try H4350, having seen some evidence of maybe better with 165gr n 180gr, plus I love the better temp stability. Bingo, it’s my load for some time since, and no doubt a keeper!
My best load for the 30-06 is IMR 4064. 52.0 grains under a Sierra 150 grain SPBT. It shoots sub MOA.
Bert
I’ve had good luck with IMR 4064 and Varget. Got very good accuracy out of Varget under a 165 at upper end. Varget was supposed to be a short grain 4064 but it seems some rifles like one over the other. I don’t have a sub MOA rifle any more. Just as well. Most days I’m not a sub MOA shooter.
Mike
November 7, 2015
Offline
Didn’t notice the soapbox, Chuck. Was too busy taking notes. I’m studying up for a “modern” cartridge project and it might be fun to do it right. I’ve been lucky to stumble onto some very good loads doing lots of stuff wrong..
I’m enjoying the 6.5 Renaissance, couldn’t happen to a nicer caliber.
Mike
I don’t know if it is the right procedure but it works. Here is a target I shot some time back with my 6.5 Creedmoor. All are 5 shot groups at 100 yds. My 308 doesn’t quite shoot as well. But I’m working on it. I aim at the center of the target but don’t want to hit where I aim. This way you don’t destroy your aim point. Once everything is dialed in I adjust the point of impact to the center.
If you can stand it watch this video. Start at the 5 minute mark. I follow Erik Cortina and watch all of his videos. He has won world class matches and on normal YouTube he can’t show the how to side of things. But on his pay forum he can.
This is how I learned to do my powder and bullet seating techniques.
t=17s
Just so you don’t think I cherry picked the 6.5 target here are the last targets for the 6.5, 308 and the 270. I have not shot the 6.5 since July and the 308 since I started shooting the 270.
I shot 4 more loads yesterday. Very windy and only 52 degrees. It appears that I need to shoot 5 more next week to narrow it down a little. I believe this set up likes speeds in the lower 2,700’s. I am anxious to get to the bullet seating tests. This old barrel will never get target accuracy. I am hoping to get as close to 1″ as I can.
November 7, 2015
Offline
I suppose a standard sporting rifle, even one as nice as this one, can be a bit disappointing when treated as a precision rifle. As a precision shooter you know how to properly evaluate a group, too many folks will put three shots into an inch now and then and pronounce their rifle “MOA”. I’ve only owned one sporting rifle that would consistently shoot sub-MOA and it shot five shots into .67″ more than once. If I could keep from tossing that last round out it would put 10 into under an inch. Some of today’s modern rifles are apparently pretty amazing but I haven’t had a hunting rifle capable of much under 1.5″ @ 100 with tailored handloads in awhile. As you know industry standard not too long ago was rumored to be 3″ but so far I’ve only had a couple of modern bolt guns I couldn’t get under 2″, BACO replaced one under warranty and repaired the other after I spent hundreds of dollars on ammo, chamber gauges and components.
I really think you’re gonna make this rifle shoot, Chuck. Apparently it’s going to be a bit of an adventure, though.
Mike
TXGunNut said
I suppose a standard sporting rifle, even one as nice as this one, can be a bit disappointing when treated as a precision rifle. As a precision shooter you know how to properly evaluate a group, too many folks will put three shots into an inch now and then and pronounce their rifle “MOA”. I’ve only owned one sporting rifle that would consistently shoot sub-MOA and it shot five shots into .67″ more than once. If I could keep from tossing that last round out it would put 10 into under an inch. Some of today’s modern rifles are apparently pretty amazing but I haven’t had a hunting rifle capable of much under 1.5″ @ 100 with tailored handloads in awhile. As you know industry standard not too long ago was rumored to be 3″ but so far I’ve only had a couple of modern bolt guns I couldn’t get under 2″, BACO replaced one under warranty and repaired the other after I spent hundreds of dollars on ammo, chamber gauges and components.I really think you’re gonna make this rifle shoot, Chuck. Apparently it’s going to be a bit of an adventure, though.
Mike
Not so much fun so far. But I’m going to go through the entire process.
EDIT I forgot a couple of important steps. I put them in bold type.
Just finished loading the 270 cases. Here is a list of the steps I do. Not all are as important than some of the others but I do it so I am not worrying about anything getting over looked.
When I get home I de cap the primers so I can check the cases out and do some measurements. Primers sometimes deform a bit and I don’t want anything messing up my measurements.
I run a brush in and out of the necks. This leaves a uniform film of powder residue and acts as a lubricant. You really don’t want to have them squeaky clean.
I clean the primer pockets. Actually I’m still uniforming them to the standard depth for large rifle primer pockets. They are getting real close to being correct.
I then tumble the brass. This step can be skipped if you prefer.
Annealing the brass is next. Doing this makes the brass stay where I size it and prolongs the life of the brass.
Full length sizing is next using a .300″ bushing die. I set my headspace at .002″. My press lets the case and die float to find better alignment and concentricity. I use a spray lube. You need the tool to measure the base of the case to the shoulder of the case.
Then expand the necks with a .275″ expander mandrel which is .002″ below bullet diameter. This tool also floats.
To get all the lube off I tumble the brass again.
I have a case trimmer that does all 3 cuts at the same time. Trims to length, chamfers and de burrs.
I use a media for cleaning so I always make sure there is none of it stuck in a flash hole.
Priming is next. I seat mine .008″ below flush as tests have proven to about the best. At least bottom out the primers so the anvils are all touching the bottom of the pocket. 21 st Century makes a hand primer that is adjustable to .001″ increments.
Dropping powder with my scale allows for a final result accurate to + or – one Kernel of powder.
I always take a look in all my cases to make sure each one has powder. Squibs are dangerous.
Seating bullets is last. Right now I am seating them .010″ off the lands. You need to have the tools to know at what length does the ogive of the bullet touch the lands. Again you need a tool that will measure the base of the case to the ogive of the bullet to make any adjustments. With the bushing I use and the expander mandrel I end up with .002″ to .003″ of neck tension Measure a sized case then do it after seating the bullet.
Headspace is very important to you, your bolt and the life of the brass. If you don’t fire form your brass to find the size of your chamber you won’t have any idea what is the correct head space or what you are actually using. The max for most Win bolt action rifles is a SAMMI range but not to exceed .010″. I like .002″ because it is enough to not get the case stuck with a piece of dirt and to get the maximum case volume. A larger case volume lowers the pressure.
On Tuesday I shot 5 more groups increasing the powder charge 0.1 grains for each group. I messed up thinking the groups would finally stay on the target. But they did not. I usually cover all the holes on the backing board with the target and then small stick on dots. First group on the lower right was OK except the third shot went left. Upper right looked better. Then, the problem. The first 2 shots missed left and with all the holes in the backer I had no idea what was what. I moved my aim point right 2″ and the next 3 hit the target. 2 holes touched but the last shot went low. Wish I could find the first 2. So lower left I moved my aim point right and they all hit the target. In fact I can only see 4 holes and they are all fairly close to each other. The last group in the middle opened all up. Weather was the best so far. No wind and at least 20 degrees warmer than last week.
1 Guest(s)
