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1952 Model 70 in 270 Win
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March 7, 2025 - 4:40 pm
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I’ll be the first to admit that some of the comments and concepts posted go beyond the scope of my reloading experience.  While I cant recall what bullet weight your using, I started out loading for the 270 in my Remington & Winchesters using 140 gn bullets but quickly found the 130’s provided more consistent groups.  Using H4831 with 130 gn Nosler Ballistic Tip bullets and being able to attain MOA with the 1952 vintage M70.  The better groups fell around the 57 grn at 3.320″ OACL but I generally load closer to 58.5 grn for a little more velocity with similar accuracy at 3.315 OACL for hunting.  Also finding the right adjustment of the front tension screw plays a part. Not sure if this helps any, or just adds more fodder to the heap.  Goals vary, mine was killing deer.   

Good Luck…

Chris

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March 7, 2025 - 5:56 pm
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TXGunNut said
Chuck-

I’ve only used that powder a time or two, was wondering how you selected it. 

I have an early Labradar that works 70-80% of the time, will often fail to pick up a bullet. I thought maybe it was my old school lead bullets and lube smoke but a friend borrowed it to check some modern ammo and had same results. I just never have taken the time to return it for repairs. When I contacted them they were trying to figure out what I was doing wrong. Maybe I’ll have better luck this time. Do you have a contact there?

 

Mike

  

I picked the powder just like I did the primers.  I have enough to get through the process.  Also I’ve used this powder in several other cartridges.

Jack O’Connor and Townsend Whelen both liked the 130’s.  That’s why I bought some too.

As far as the chrono.  It can be finicky if not aimed properly, and the rifle is not placed in the right position.  When it does pick up, how many bars are you getting?  Mine works OK with at least 3.  Is the chrono set up for rifle, what is the set distance, and is it set on doppler, what is your trigger level? 

I stand back about 5 or 6 feet behind the unit and look over the top of it to make sure it is aimed at the target. The face of the unit needs to be parrallel with the target and if shooting up or down hill it must be tilted into the same plane.  Right now my project offset is 6″ but 1′ works too.  The tigger source is set on doppler.  Trigger is used when you add a trigger devise.  My trigger level is set at 4.  Any muzzle blast will cause the unit not to record. So make sure the muzzle is out in front of the unit.

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March 7, 2025 - 6:22 pm
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1892takedown said
I’ll be the first to admit that some of the comments and concepts posted go beyond the scope of my reloading experience.  While I cant recall what bullet weight your using, I started out loading for the 270 in my Remington & Winchesters using 140 gn bullets but quickly found the 130’s provided more consistent groups.  Using H4831 with 130 gn Nosler Ballistic Tip bullets and being able to attain MOA with the 1952 vintage M70.  The better groups fell around the 57 grn at 3.320″ OACL but I generally load closer to 58.5 grn for a little more velocity with similar accuracy at 3.315 OACL for hunting.  Also finding the right adjustment of the front tension screw plays a part. Not sure if this helps any, or just adds more fodder to the heap.  Goals vary, mine was killing deer.   

Good Luck…

Chris

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Chris, I’m using a 145 grain hunting bullet.  Figuring most people may hunt with the heavier bullet.  The process I use is what competition shooters use but some steps may vary.  Optimum Charge Weight is what I’m currently looking for.  It’s all about finding a stable node where a small amount of powder one way or another, (.1 to .3 grains), still gives you the same groups. Then bullet seating depth.  What is OACL?  OAL is the longest the loaded cartridge can be to fit the magazine.  I seat bullets base of case to the ogive of the bullet based on which length gives me the best groups.  Not all bullets are perfect base to ogive.  And are worse base to tip.  Long range target shooters sort the bullets base to tip.  We talked a lot lately how longer bullets have a better BC.  These guys shoot the bullets of the same length in the same group.  Many tip, (sharpen), their bullets for those that do not have a tipped bullet already. 

I wish I was getting better groups at this stage.  I am going to go through the whole process before I start changing things.  Playing with the barrel harmonics by adjusting that front screw is one of my final steps.  Both my target rifles have tuner/muzzle breaks.  So I have some experience with barrel harmonics.  It’s a very controversial and mysterious subject.

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March 8, 2025 - 6:57 pm
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Chuck-

I suspect I’m not doing something right with the Labradar but haven’t discovered exactly what that is. It works great and then it doesn’t. I’ll try again before moving down the R&R path. Teslong bore scope arrived today. Solved two mysteries with it, two very similar 38-55’s with very different bores. One shoots, the other was built in 1895. Hard to see much difference with a bore light, camera tells it like it is. I’ll peek at my 38-55 SRC after my nap, don’t want to dream about sewer pipes.

I was wondering if 4350 powders would work as well in the 270 as they do in the 30-06. I’ve tried H4831SC in a problem 30-06 but have no experience with the 270. Funny thing about 4350 powders is that all three flavors I have on hand; Accurate, IMR and Hodgdon all behave a little differently. I don’t currently have a hunting rifle that responds well to load tuning, it’s an early BACO Super Grade barely capable of 1.25 MOA. More than good enough for hunting but not very exciting on either the loading or shooting bench. I suspect that SC powder lends itself to better metering, a bit like Varget vs 4064. 

Mike

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March 8, 2025 - 11:29 pm
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Not all 4350 powders are made with the exact same formula.  According to my Hornady Manual Accurate 4350 is 121 on the burn rate chart.  IMR 4350 is 125.  H 4350 is number 127.  Close but not the same.  Lower number is faster burn rate.  Same goes for loading manuals.  Fastest powder is listed first and slowest is last.  Bullseye is No. 2.  In my Hornady loading manual it shows H4350 and IMR for the 270. But they show the H 4350 first? 

Everyone should have a borescope.  It tells the truth.

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March 9, 2025 - 3:11 am
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I’ve been studying my load notes this rainy weekend. Funny how my 30-06 4831SC powder charges are not far from your 270. I haven’t had much luck with Accurate 4350 but Hodgdon 4350 is very interesting. IMR’s version will always be my default but last time I loaded hunting loads for my brother a Hodgdon load got the nod again. Awhile back I stumbled across one of those nodes you talk about and 14 years later he’s still using it to put meat in the freezer. Amazingly it does well with all three of his rifles, even a stainless/synthetic Ruger he uses when the weather gets a bit damp. It’s only about 2700fps, plenty for S.Texas brush country deer and hogs. There was a lot more variation with these powders than I expected. 

I disagree with you to a point, Chuck. A borescope will give some folks the wrong impression about the condition of a bore. Gunsmiths have made a pretty good living from borescopes, IMHO. I do like this new Teslong borescope. I ordered one that plugs into my PC. They have dozens of models including some with monitors and others with Bluetooth for PC’s. The Bluetooth models I saw were not compatible with iPads or iPhones. I like the model that plugs into my laptop, even an IT underachiever like me got it to work in a few minutes. It costs less than $60 and I like it better than the replacement for my Lyman at half the price. 

 

Mike

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March 9, 2025 - 5:19 pm
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H 4350 is the go to powder for competitors who shoot the 6.5 mm (.264″) Creedmoor cartridge.  My rifle loves it.

The bore scope tells the truth.  Gunsmiths who manipulate the data to gain work are like dealers who use the Blue Book to buy guns.  Crooks.  We all know that a rifle with some pits and stuff will still shoot as long as it has rifling.

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March 9, 2025 - 5:44 pm
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I need to go back and clarify a few things.  First for Chris.

About Post 47 I talked about the process to find the length of the loaded round where the exact spot along the ogive of the bullet touches the lands.  For the 270 that is at .270″ on the .277″ bullet.  Once you know this you can adjust your seating depth anywhere you wish during testing by measuring base of the case to the ogive of the bullet.  So lately I have been seating the bullets .010″ off the lands. That’s .010″ of jump. Later I will test depths at .005″ jumps to see which is best.  You should find a node here too where the groups are the best even with a .001″ or .002″ of variance in seating depth.

As for testing for Optimum Charge Weight or powder ladder testing there are 2 things I’m looking at.  One is the node where the speed levels off for a couple of charges.  The other is the point of impact.  You do not want to pick a flat spot that the POI on each side of it is not the same spot on the target.  You need both.

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March 9, 2025 - 7:05 pm
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Chuck said
H 4350 is the go to powder for competitors who shoot the 6.5 mm (.264″) Creedmoor cartridge.  My rifle loves it.

The bore scope tells the truth.  Gunsmiths who manipulate the data to gain work are like dealers who use the Blue Book to buy guns.  Crooks.  We all know that a rifle with some pits and stuff will still shoot as long as it has rifling.

  

In my experience it’s not the gunsmiths who manipulate the data, it’s the owner who overreacts to what he sees on his display screen. I haven’t had a working borescope for years so I’m solving a few mysteries this weekend. No surprises yet, just confirming some suspicions. 

I was aware that 4350 was popular with the 6.5 Creedmoor crowd, didn’t realize it was the Hodgdon flavor. Interesting. I used the IMR version for years before stumbling onto the Hodgdon version while struggling to make a modern gun shoot like it should.

Too cold, wet and nasty for me to venture out to the range this weekend. Looking better later this week. 

 

Mike

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March 9, 2025 - 9:26 pm
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We could get rain as early as tomorrow but the worst is supposed to be Thursday.  If it is not raining at my house Tuesday morning I plan to shoot.  Out here it just depends on which cloud you may be under.

I loaded anther 5 groups using powder charges in the 53 and 54 grain areas.   I’m hoping these lighter loads may help my dispersion issue.

A few weeks back when seating bullets I was having a hard time getting them to seat where I wanted them.  I measured a bunch and found out that the base to ogive of the bullets were as much as .010″ different in the same box.  So I sorted another 100 round box this morning.  All of them were within about .002″ range of each other.  I did have 18 left from the last box.  These were all about .002″ of each other.  The thing is, these were at least .010″ different than the other 100.  Primers, brass, bullets and powder vary batch to batch.  The better stuff does not vary as much as the cheaper stuff.

Professionals with money and connections/sponsors buy enough to last the life of the barrel.  No changing lots for anything.  I just got a new 6.5 barrel so I need about 16 lbs of powder, 2,000 primers, 2,000 bullets and 500 cases.  Anyone want to be my sponsor? Laugh  All joking aside, I usually buy 8 lb jugs of powder, 1,000 primers, 500 bullets and 200 cases at a time.   But not all at once.  Sometimes I save an 8 lb jug and make my own batch of powder.  As I buy small amounts of powder I mix them in the jug.

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March 9, 2025 - 11:19 pm
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Hope your range day goes off as planned. I’ve encountered alarming variation in factory J-word bullets using nothing more sophisticated than a digital scale. I cull my cast bullets for much smaller variances and I’m not as fussy as I should be. I used to sort cases until I quit buying R-word brass. Good idea about sticking with one lot. When I was actively shooting some teams would request and test various lots of competition handgun ammo and buy pallets of ammo from the lot that performed well for them. Yes, some of these teams were “sponsored” by Uncle Sugar. The larger state and local teams financed their operations by holding matches. My department didn’t know I was competing until they sent three men to a state championship match and they came home with a four-man team trophy. 

 

Mike

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March 10, 2025 - 6:01 pm
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Latest forecast is not good.  May be windy too.

I’m not fussy when loading my old guns.  In a lot of cases I just feel lucky to be able to find the components to shoot them.

My target and hunting rifles are a different story.  I don’t sort brass.  If you weight sort them you really don’t know where the extra or less weight is really located.  If you volume check them it does give you some better info.  I use Lapua brass when available.  This brass is so consistent you don’t have to worry.  I would have used Lapua for the 270 but they aren’t making it right now.  270 brass is longer than 30-06, which they make, but I would loose too much neck length and couldn’t put the bullet closer to the lands where I may need it.   The Norma brass is not consistent in many areas.  The primer pockets are not the standard large rifle depth.  I am using a uniformer to get them to the standard depth.  The neck wall thickness is not the same, case to case.  So I am getting different neck tensions.  I have a neck turner but I’m not going to use it.  Neck tension is a really big deal and is often overlooked.  I am using match primers because I had a bunch but even these are not the same thickness.  So it takes some effort to get them all seated at the same depth especially so because of the pocket depth variance.  I have a concentricity gauge than can check case and bullet run out but I’m not using it.  The presses I use all allow the case and in some instances the die to float too.  This allows things to float and find center for better concentricity.   The concentricity tool is one of the things that most people really should not buy.  There is not that much room in the chamber to allow for a lot of misalignment.  Then when the cartridge is fired the bullet is immediately aligned by the bore if needed. Spend your money on the barrel, brass and bullets.  

There are certain tools you should have.  A set of digital calipers accurate to .001″.  Case shoulder and bullet ogive comparator bodies with the appropriate case and bullet comparators.  Use some full length bushing dies or at least use expander mandrels to get the best neck tension.  A very accurate scale. .1 grain scales are not accurate. You need to do some testing and find out what the seating depth of your primers are when the tin cup is bottomed out.  This will make sure the anvils are all touching the bottom of the pocket.

If you want some suggestions just ask.  The tools I use aren’t cheap but believe me they are cheaper than going through a few to eventually find the ones that work.

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March 10, 2025 - 11:44 pm
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Hard to find good cases these days. R-P and Winchester are risky propositions, I think both have seen a decline in quality. Hornady makes a wide variety of cases and I haven’t tried Lapua or Norma. I’ve heard good things about Norma, sorry to hear they have issues. Weighing the cases seemed to help my loads but it may have been just a contributing factor. I’m not especially fussy about the Hornady brass, it comes out of the box better than R-P brass after my limited uniforming efforts. Thanks for the tip about the concentricity tool, I’ve looked at them pretty hard. 

Broke my bore scope. Somehow the mirror popped out of the head I was using. I was lucky enough to find it. The mirror is mounted on a little plastic plug and it was loose in the round metal sleeve that screws onto the camera. I figured if the sleeve was a little less round it would hold the plug better. I was right. Chalk up one for redneck engineering!

 

Mike

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March 11, 2025 - 10:18 pm
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My borescope came with 3 different mirrors.  I attached one and have never changed it.  You know screwing it in and out adjusts the focus.  Move it where it looks the best and then tighten the lock ring.

Got to shoot most of the ammo I loaded before the rain hit.  Looks like I’m finally making some progress.  Groups got smaller and the ES was better.  Groups are still over 1″ but not 2″ like before.  I am getting fps in the low to mid 2700’s.  I’m still getting more fps than what the manual says I should. Bipod mount loosened again.  I’m going back to a front rest.  The bipod has a really wide stance that adds a lot of stability, when it stays tight.

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March 12, 2025 - 12:49 am
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Good to hear you snuck in a range session before it rained. Sounds a little slow for the 270 but I’m thinking max velocity was not one of your priorities. 

 

This camera came with six reflectors, it is adjustable but seems to be well focused. My 32-40 Single Shot is an apparent victim of corrosive primers, very disappointing but I knew something was wrong in there.

 

Mike

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March 12, 2025 - 5:38 pm
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Mike, I wanted higher velocities but when I tested them all the way to 3,000 fps the groups were not good and the ES/SD was bad too.  That’s why I went to lower charges.   Seems this combo likes 2,700 to 2,800.  I should have a better idea after my next shooting session.  I’d like to get on to the bullet seating tests.

I didn’t miss all the rain.  All my equipment was wiped down and is laying around drying up.  I don’t want to close anything up until it has dried for a couple days.  The way these weak storms are I probably could have stayed for awhile and it would have stopped raining but I was ready to go.  I had no idea how bad the traffic would be for my normal 60 mile, 1 1/2 hour drive home. Worst part of the rain is that it ruins the targets and if wet enough the cardboard backing warps badly.  I scavenge pieces of cardboard to cut to size for my 26″ x 26″ frame.  This is just big enough to get 2 targets stapled to the cardboard.   These canyons get some bad wind so I don’t use tall target stands.   The tall ones get blown up all the time.  The storms come off the ocean and blow from the south to the northeast. Almost at our backs.  When we get the hot winds off the desert the wind comes from the northeast and blows almost in our face. 

These were the winds we got when the bad fires hit So Cal.  Came off the desert through the mountain passes right toward the communities near the base of the mountains.  It only takes one spark or arsonist.  And no matter what the Media says the local electrical companies can not build anything that Mother Nature can not destroy.  At least 25 years ago they started putting a lot of power lines underground.  The major problem is the cost and the rate payers don’t want their bills increased.  The utilities are governed by the PUC, (Federal Public Utilities Commission) and the CPUC (State) and can’t raise rates without their approval.  As a former Project Mgr for one of the largest electrical utilities in the country, Southern Ca Edison, I have a lot of experience with this issue.  I’m truly sorry for anyone that was impacted by these fires. This is the worst natural disaster of my lifetime.

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March 12, 2025 - 9:36 pm
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I was using 4064 in my 30-06 for long time, but with 150gr bullets, most accurate load I’ve ever developed. I went to 165gr bullets, just feel better about them, trajectory so similar not a consideration, but down range is where the 165gr shine. Same time I decided to try H4350, having seen some evidence of maybe better with 165gr n 180gr, plus I love the better temp stability. Bingo, it’s my load for some time since, and no doubt a keeper!

My little bit 270Win loading I’d used IMR4831 n R17. I wanted to try H4350 from the start but couldn’t get it, it was 2022. But having acquired it over year ago I tried it in my 270Win eventually. Long story short, H4350 is my one n only needed now, I’m staying with it! Maybe little better accuracy, more velocity, and temp stable, plus the simplicity of only buying one powder! This is with Hornady 130gr n 150gr IL FB primarily,  but Speer 130gr some, only slight test with these.

I tried Sierra Gamekings and Hornady IL 140gr from start, neither did very well, the Hornady IL ok as long as not pushed very fast. But the Flat Base are all I want now.

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March 13, 2025 - 2:37 am
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I guess I need to find a centerfire plinker that likes IMR4350. I have an 8lb keg and four additional pounds of IMR4350. I don’t want to shoot 1400 +/- rounds through my new(ish) SG 30-06 M70 so I guess I’ll be perusing loading manuals, unless of course I find an IMR4350 load that works better than the H4350 load in my 30-06. I have lots of 35 Rem cast bullets and my old 670 bored out to 35 Whelen. I think my shoulder would be a lot happier if I found a nice shooter .270 but that would require brass, dies and a mould (or big pile of jacketed bullets). There may be a 30-06 shooter waiting for me at the Orphanage.  I have tons of brass and several 30 cal moulds. I have a 30-40 Krag project on the horizon, IMR4350 looks like a good candidate for that cartridge.

Your 270 project is a new approach for me, Chuck. I’m used to starting a project with 2-3 powders and picking one that seems to be best. Not very scientific but I’ve been lucky. Could be interesting with that variable nailed down at the start.

 

 

Mike

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March 13, 2025 - 3:58 am
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M64lvr said
I was using 4064 in my 30-06 for long time, but with 150gr bullets, most accurate load I’ve ever developed. I went to 165gr bullets, just feel better about them, trajectory so similar not a consideration, but down range is where the 165gr shine. Same time I decided to try H4350, having seen some evidence of maybe better with 165gr n 180gr, plus I love the better temp stability. Bingo, it’s my load for some time since, and no doubt a keeper!

My best load for the 30-06 is IMR 4064.  52.0 grains under a Sierra 150 grain SPBT.  It shoots sub MOA.

Bert

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Bert H. said

M64lvr said

I was using 4064 in my 30-06 for long time, but with 150gr bullets, most accurate load I’ve ever developed. I went to 165gr bullets, just feel better about them, trajectory so similar not a consideration, but down range is where the 165gr shine. Same time I decided to try H4350, having seen some evidence of maybe better with 165gr n 180gr, plus I love the better temp stability. Bingo, it’s my load for some time since, and no doubt a keeper!

My best load for the 30-06 is IMR 4064.  52.0 grains under a Sierra 150 grain SPBT.  It shoots sub MOA.

Bert

  

Almost identical, 52grs and a Speer 150gr H.C.. I’ve shot several 5/8″ groups @100yds with it in an old original, pre Sako, Mod LSA 65 Tikka made in 1975, my best rifle! With this Rem 700 270W running for first place now, although not as accurate, but plenty hunting accurate capable!

A4064 being just as good if not better in the 06.

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