Model 52|Page 3|Winchester .22 Rim Fire|Forum|Winchester Collector

I’m in agreement with the above comments, as it’s important that you use the right screw drivers, or “turn screws”, as an ole’ time terminology. You stated that you we’re a little nervous doing the work to be done, in removing the stock. There’s nothing wrong with that. Setting up properly at a comfortable uncluttered area, bench or table is important. Everything must be stable and no slipping and sliding around. Securing the rifle in the proper rifle/gun vise is very helpful, after the Bolt and magazine are removed, as Steve has indicated. Padding the bottom of the vise with a towel or cloth that will only help, from scratching or adding any dents or unwanted marks, is always a good idea. 

Carefully cleaning out the slots in the screws of dirt and grime that could hinder good screwdriver blade fit, can also be important. A lot of times a light tapping on the end of the bit, on the two piece screwdriver, can really help to loosen the screw, without marring it or beating up the top of the screw. As Zeb suggested, Kroil, setting overnight in the screws to be removed works wonders. If it they get messed up, you’ll wish you’d taken even more precautions.

Many of us are looking forward to you’re pics of the inside of the barrel channel of the wood stock, the underside of the barrel stamps, and even the inside of that custom worked butt plate. In many cases these stamps and marking can be facing different directions, so several different pics will help. 

With the wood being custom made, and the front barrel band not being Winchester made, I agree with Steve’s recommendation, on the front sling swivel, taking the place of the front screw, and holding the front of the stock on. A light tapping with the heal of you’re hand in all likelihood will release the wood stock, as you’re careful to remove it and not force anything.

In you’re second and third to last pictures, it shows two dark spots, which look like wood plugs to me. It will be interesting to see what those are for also.

After you remove the butt plate, try to be careful trying to get the metal sight tin out of the storage hole, compartment, as that seems to be made special for that, and scratching the tin, would be a casualty to avoid also. Don’t try to pry the thin, tin sides of the sight tin, as it will scratch and or cave in, making it even harder to remove. Even some strong, yet cheap Harbor Freight Earth magnets that are small enough, yet extremely strong enough to help remove the metal tin, from it’s hold, might work. By securing the rifle in a rifle vise and clamped in. Tapping on the side or end of the wood butt stock end, while using the magnets might be the trick, being careful not to chip or mark the corners of the butt stock where the plate attaches to it.

The key is to take you’re time and think through you’re moves before you try them.

Tony