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Hello everybody
I just got win94 legandry lawmen. I wanted to disassemble it but the upper tang buttstock screw won’t move.I tried wd40,heat and tapping.I even used an impact screwdriver the screw won’t give.
Also there is rust on the buttstock plate. How to tackle it properly?
Appreciate your feedback.
Thanks
I have used Kroil, WD-40 and PB Blaster and all seem to work about the same. None of them work all the time. Prolonged soaking and tapping might work. It can be a long and tedious project. Some of the courser rust might be removed by using a sharpened piece of wood like oak. Make sure any screwdriver you use is a gunsmith type. Heat carefully controlled might also help. Too much torque may break the head off.
Thanks all
I tried the pb blaster to no avail.
I saw somebody use a drill press to apply pressure on the screw bit then rotate it by hand.
I will give it a try.
What about the pitted rust ?
Appreciate your replies.
Thanks
Sam56
I think someone may have used loctite on that stock screw. For a model made in 1977 the screw should not be that tight! How is the overall condition? Share some pictures and we can give advice re the pitting.
I have one brand new in its box, a nice commemorative. I am a lawman myself so that is the right commemorative for me.
Chris
A man can never have too many WINCHESTERS...
I don’t know if it’s pistol grip or straight, but if it’s straight grip the screw tail will be visible on the lower tang. If someone used Loctite a soldering iron on the end of the screw will make enough heat to loosen the screw. T/R
Thanks all.
The condition is very good except for the rust on the buttstock plate and the finger lever. I will share some photos.
It is a straight grib and i tried soldering iron for 20 minutes, the screw wont budge.
November 7, 2015
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Don’t shoot me but gotta ask, where are you applying the penetrating oil? The head of the screw or the threaded end? The finish on the receiver looks a bit like a Legendary Frontiersman (38-55) I had. Made the mistake (?) of firing BP in mine, stained the fragile finish badly. If you can take the butt plate off some Kroil may loosen up that rust, may be little more than surface rust but that’s only if you’re luckier than me. It seems wood shrinkage runs in the family, too bad because I suspect it’s nicely figured.
Not running your gun down, it seems these shooter grade commemorative rifles are some of today’s best values. They’re generally very good shooters and some are quite attractive with nice wood and often nice finishes.
Mike
Hi Mike
I oild the lower (threaded) part,then the upper part just in case the head of the screw is stock to the upper tang.
Does the oiling affect the finish of the wood ?
November 7, 2015
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Sam56 said
Hi MikeI oild the lower (threaded) part,then the upper part just in case the head of the screw is stock to the upper tang.
Does the oiling affect the finish of the wood ?
I wouldn’t let penetrating oil soak into a modern varnish finish but it shouldn’t hurt it. Just wipe off any that runs onto the wood. Let it soak another day or two. If you want to get into collectable Winchesters now is a great time to learn an invaluable lesson; walk away when things don’t come apart like you think they should. Let the penetrating oil work and let your mind relax.
Mike
Hi TR
No ,the gun was not in a fire it was improperly stored and i think it was upright on buttstock plate, that is why it is so rusty.The screw i showed earlier was the buttstock plate screw. I will attach photos of the stubborn screw.
Yes Mike,I learned alot since I got this rifle and it does teach you patience. Thanks
This is the stubborn screw.
Thank you all.
Sam
The picture of the screw indicates that you are not using a hollow ground screwdriver, an absolute necessity for any work on guns.
Vince
Southern Oregon
NRA member
Fraternal Order of Eagles
“There is but one answer to be made to the dynamite bomb and that can best be made by the Winchester rifle.”
Teddy Roosevelt
Sam56 said
Thanks allI saw somebody use a drill press to apply pressure on the screw bit then rotate it by hand.
Thanks
Sam56
That is called bucking. It adds pressure so the screw driver won’t slip. Who ever messed up the head wasn’t using a proper gunsmith screw driver. These are a must have. Like we all have said, Patience and soaking. Make sure the exposed end of the screw is up so you can leave a puddle.
TR’s suggestion to use a soldering iron is a good way to put the heat where you need it.
I’d like to say that it will eventually work out but I have been trying to get a piece apart for years. I mess with it and eventually give up only to come back and try some more.
I was using gunsmith screwdriver set (wheeler) ,but i think when I used the impact screwdriver i used a different bit.
I have high hopes that by using the bucking method it will budge.
I will keep you updated.
Thank you all.
Sam56
Hello everybody
I tried the drill press (power off ) and the screw bit broke.
I started doubting that (righty tighty lefty loosey).
Any suggestions.
I tried to upload the photo but for some reason it didn’t work.
Thanks
Chuck said
I’d like to say that it will eventually work out but I have been trying to get a piece apart for years. I mess with it and eventually give up only to come back and try some more.
Wise words. Rust and time makes a simple job hard.
Do any of the other screws turn? T/R
Hi TR
I haven’t tried any other screws.
I’m stuck with the first(tang screw).
I’m trying more heating by soldering iron.
I hope it’ll not go to drilling.
Sam
Now would be a good time to soak up the other screws with a good penetrating oil, not WD-40. If most of the screws are as frozen as the first you might have to rethink your plan before you start drilling. Once you start drilling you have reached the point of no return. T/R
Hi TR
Its a good idea regarding the other screws.
How about the buttplate rusted screw ,I have soaked twice with PB Blaster.Do i needto remove the rust first?
Thanks
I’d be soaking and picking at the area around the screw head.
Removing this type of rust may be a lot easier if the butt plate was off the gun. Soaking and picking at it with a sharp pieces of wood will take the volcanoes off, eventually. Even if you can pick it clean there will be pits in the metal. It will look better though.
Do not sand the corrosive areas. An experienced person may remove some of it by using a lot of oil and bronze wool.
One more thing. If you break a wood screw you can fix the situation. The remaining piece can be removed and any damaged wood can be repaired and the repair hidden under the butt plate. NOT so on the metal.
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