In the picture the forearm wood is separated from the receiver about a quarter inch, with visible rust. It has to come off, how about trying to turn those barrel ban screws. They are small and frail so have the right screw driver and do not apply enough force to deform the heads. If the forearm is removed you can insert the front end in a 4″ PVC pipe with a plug in one end and fill it with the penetrant of your choice for a good long soak. Hung vertical a 30″ tube is long enough.

 The stock screw can easily be drilled from the threaded end without leaving a visible mark by a good machinist. On the other hand those small screws in the barrel bands are a little harder to deal with. Once removed the bands can be re-threaded for over size screws. You can spray the action down and it’s not going to rust anymore in the mean time.

 Consider your gun a learning experience, don’t be in a hurry. No matter what you do or don’t do it will never be worth what an original clean one is. T/R

  I’ve heard it called a “Red Neck gun oiler”. A PVC pipe is strapped to the end of the bench vertical plugged on the bottom with a valve in the plug. You simply put the gun in it barrel down and fill it to bottom of the wood with whatever solution is required. If you’ve removed the wood the entire gun can be submerged and left as long as it takes. When done drain it out the bottom. The important part is to submerge the areas with screws and not the wood. I guess you could use a plastic sleeve, but might risk a mess.

 If one screw is rusted in probably more are.

 Yes, I mean the front is the muzzle end. T/R

 I will say the barrel band screws could have the threads on the head side of the screws so soak both sides before trying. I know nothing about modern guns, most gunsmiths do. Is it time for professional help? T/R