I picked up a 1913 1914 (thanks for the correct date, Bert) model 1894 in 30 WCF a couple of years ago as a bundled deal with an excellent condition 1887 Colt Lightning. If I wanted the Lightning, I had to buy the 1894. Well, I sold the Lightning and did well on it and now I have this 1894 that has a gunked up barrel. I’m guessing that it is mostly leading and has the expected frosting. Overall, the rifling seems very nice on this rifle except at the last 2-3″ near the muzzle. It needs very little work on the action, but I’m not sure it’s worth putting any money into it. I’ve posted a couple of pics. I tried to show the barrel condition as best I could, but I’m not sure the pic shows enough to help. I’d like some opinions and it would be great if there was a member in the D/FW area that I could meet and for an evaluation. I don’t have much money in the gun and it might just end up as a wall hanger. All thoughts and opinions are welcome.
Jerry
I'm more of a shooter than a collector, but I do have a few collectibles.
Philippians 1:6
S/N is 673434 which, if I’m reading the s/n charts correctly makes it a 1913 rifle. The guy I got it from suggested soaking it in Evaporust, so I plugged the muzzle with a cork and soaked it for a couple of days, then ran a brush through it with little effect. I’ll get some Kroil and see if I get better results.
Jerry
I'm more of a shooter than a collector, but I do have a few collectibles.
Philippians 1:6
Bore definitely needs to be cleaned to see what youve got to work with. It may just be the photo, but it looks like the bore may have a bulge or ring in it about an inch forward of the magazine retaining band. Looks like its got some rifling in the photo out to the end.
1892takedown @sbcglobal.net ......NRA Endowment Life Member.....WACA Member
"God is great.....beer is good.....and people are crazy"... Billy Currington
If leading is the problem, wrapping some of the stainless steel strands pulled from a “Big 45” rust-remover pad is much more effective than a brass brush alone. As you probably know, damage near the muzzle is the worst place to have it, but whatever you do, the question “how does it shoot” can only be answered BY shooting. If it will group 4 MOA, that’s good enough to make it a decent shooter at iron sight ranges in brush country.
1892takedown said
Bore definitely needs to be cleaned to see what youve got to work with. It may just be the photo, but it looks like the bore may have a bulge or ring in it about an inch forward of the magazine retaining band. Looks like its got some rifling in the photo out to the end.
I don’t see the bulge in the pic or on the rifle but there is a slight bend in the magazine tube, so maybe that’s what you’re seeing.
Jerry
I'm more of a shooter than a collector, but I do have a few collectibles.
Philippians 1:6
jertex said
I don’t see the bulge in the pic or on the rifle but there is a slight bend in the magazine tube, so maybe that’s what you’re seeing.
In the bore pic, it looks like there is a ring in the barrel 2-3 inches from the muzzle, whether its a ring, a bulge, or just crud I can only guess. Only cleaning will tell. If it is a slight bulge, you will likely only see a waviness on the outside barrel flats when viewed at an angle down the flats of the barrel in the right lighting. As Clarence mentioned, get the bore cleaned and try it out at 50 yards. You should be able to get a 2″ group or better at 50 yards if the bore and ammo cooperate.
1892takedown @sbcglobal.net ......NRA Endowment Life Member.....WACA Member
"God is great.....beer is good.....and people are crazy"... Billy Currington
jertex said
S/N is 673434 which, if I’m reading the s/n charts correctly makes it a 1913 rifle. The guy I got it from suggested soaking it in Evaporust, so I plugged the muzzle with a cork and soaked it for a couple of days, then ran a brush through it with little effect. I’ll get some Kroil and see if I get better results.
May 1914 is the actual date of manufacture.
I have never used Evaporust (or even heard of it).
WACA Historian & Board of Director Member #6571L
Bert H. said I have never used Evaporust (or even heard of it).
It’s supposed to be a “safe, non-toxic” rust remover, so of course it would have no effect whatever on lead; but it’s equally worthless for removing iron oxide! Any product described as “safe, non-toxic,” think useless. (Just like “EPA approved.”)
1892takedown said
jertex said
I don’t see the bulge in the pic or on the rifle but there is a slight bend in the magazine tube, so maybe that’s what you’re seeing.
In the bore pic, it looks like there is a ring in the barrel 2-3 inches from the muzzle, whether its a ring, a bulge, or just crud I can only guess. Only cleaning will tell. If it is a slight bulge, you will likely only see a waviness on the outside barrel flats when viewed at an angle down the flats of the barrel in the right lighting. As Clarence mentioned, get the bore cleaned and try it out at 50 yards. You should be able to get a 2″ group or better at 50 yards if the bore and ammo cooperate.
I see what you mean, it appears to be crud to me but we’ll find out once I get it it properly cleaned.
Jerry
I'm more of a shooter than a collector, but I do have a few collectibles.
Philippians 1:6
jertex said
I see what you mean, it appears to be crud to me but we’ll find out once I get it it properly cleaned.
Finding out what that “crud” actually is should help to know how best to clean. Since almost all factory ammo was loaded with jacketed bullets, it probably isn’t lead. If it’s possible to scrape out some particles of that deposit with a rod or wire, you should be able to see right away if it’s rust.
Do as the rest have said. Clean the barrel. Find a solvent that removes lead, powder and copper. Soak it for at least 24 hrs. Then use a wet nylon brush and scrub the barrel at least 20 strokes back and forth. Make sure to let the brush come all the way out on each stroke so it can realign the bristles to go the other directions. Follow up with patches until clean. Soak it a second time if needed. Buy some Iosso brushes from someone like Brownells. These are really stiff.
Chuck said Buy some Iosso brushes from someone like Brownells. These are really stiff.
https://www.brownells.com/gun-cleaning-chemicals/brushes-amp-bore-snakes/bore-brushes/iosso-nyflex-rifle-bore-brushes-prod54388.aspx
Chuck, if the bore is as badly obstructed as it appears to be, he’d be wiser to use one of these, unless he wants to make this chore his whole winter’s preoccupation (considering his location, I mean “winter” figuratively): https://www.brownells.com/gun-cleaning-chemicals/brushes-amp-bore-snakes/bore-brushes/rifle-handgun-tornado-brush-38-357-cal–sku699001038-9791-25294.aspx?cm_mmc=cse-_-Itwine-_-shopzilla-_-699-001-038&cnxclid=16698392870534730873810070302008005
Neither it, nor the stiffest brass brush he could find, is going to damage the bore of a match quality target rifle, which a much neglected old ’94 is far from being.
Clarence, I guess I like being a little more cautious. I use these a lot. They are really intended to be used with Iosso bore paste. Iosso is just like JB bore paste. There is a product now that is a liquid with Iosso paste in it. It is called Thorro Clean. This stuff works well and the liquid part foams up so it gets into all the nooks and cracks.
Clarence, I guess I like being a little more cautious. I use these a lot. They are really intended to be used with Iosso bore paste. Iosso is just like JB bore paste. Chuck said
I have a very old tube of the Iosso paste, but for some reason never used it. (Probably dried up by now.) It, or JB’s, would be good to apply to a brush, but with a bore in this condition, it’s a little late to worry about “caution.”
jertex said
I picked up a19131914 (thanks for the correct date, Bert) model 1894 in 30 WCF a couple of years ago as a bundled deal with an excellent condition 1887 Colt Lightning. If I wanted the Lightning, I had to buy the 1894. Well, I sold the Lightning and did well on it and now I have this 1894 that has a gunked up barrel. I’m guessing that it is mostly leading and has the expected frosting. Overall, the rifling seems very nice on this rifle except at the last 2-3″ near the muzzle. It needs very little work on the action, but I’m not sure it’s worth putting any money into it. I’ve posted a couple of pics. I tried to show the barrel condition as best I could, but I’m not sure the pic shows enough to help. I’d like some opinions and it would be great if there was a member in the D/FW area that I could meet and for an evaluation. I don’t have much money in the gun and it might just end up as a wall hanger. All thoughts and opinions are welcome.
If it were me, I would do a Complete tear down, check all components and do a Proper cleaning, if You have the skill set and proper tools or know someone that does. It’s Not a job for the timid.
By the looks of the bore I wouldn’t try cleaning that barrel from the muzzle end. Most of what’s in that barrel will end up in the receiver and if you’re Not doing a complete tear down “I” Wouldn’t recommend that, especially if you plan on firing that 94. And “I” would want to fire that 94!
If you don’t want or care to fire it “I” would leave it as is with just an outside care session with a 100% cotton cloth and a dab of food grade mineral oil. And contrary to popular opinions, get some toothpicks and clean that dead skin out of those screw slots.
November 7, 2015
I’m thinking the bore may be one of the best features of this old rifle but getting in a hurry to clean it up may be the best way to ruin it. Soak, gentle scrub, patch, repeat. I like Kroil and Hoppes, haven’t seen Iosso in years but may be worth a try. I see some good definition on the lands and I’d be willing to invest the time in seeing what’s under those decades of crud. Cradle it finger lever up or muzzle down while soaking, scrub in a cradle with action open, lever up. Just takes a few minutes a day, who cares if it takes a few weeks?
Mike
TXGunNut said
I’m thinking the bore may be one of the best features of this old rifle but getting in a hurry to clean it up may be the best way to ruin it. Soak, gentle scrub, patch, repeat. I like Kroil and Hoppes, haven’t seen Iosso in years but may be worth a try. I see some good definition on the lands and I’d be willing to invest the time in seeing what’s under those decades of crud. Cradle it finger lever up or muzzle down while soaking, scrub in a cradle with action open, lever up. Just takes a few minutes a day, who cares if it takes a few weeks?
Mike
I agree with Mike. I don’t tear down guns unless it is really needed. Use Gun Scrubber spray then a good spray cleaner like Breakfree CLP and most often this will be enough for the internals. I use Shooters Choice MC 7 to remove the crud. You may have to use it more than once. Like Mike said, clean the gun upside down so the crud will fall out and not into the receiver. Use a brass bore guide when cleaning from the muzzle. Once it is as clean as you can get it then post pictures and let us see if you can go forward. I highly recommend the Iosso brushes.
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