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I’d run a brush with some kind of solvent through the barrel a couple times then just shoot it.
TXGunNut said
I’m thinking the bore may be one of the best features of this old rifle but getting in a hurry to clean it up may be the best way to ruin it. Soak, gentle scrub, patch, repeat. I like Kroil and Hoppes, haven’t seen Iosso in years but may be worth a try. I see some good definition on the lands and I’d be willing to invest the time in seeing what’s under those decades of crud. Cradle it finger lever up or muzzle down while soaking, scrub in a cradle with action open, lever up. Just takes a few minutes a day, who cares if it takes a few weeks?
Mike
I ordered some iosso brushes today from Midway since I had to order some other items there anyway. Might as well take advantage of the free shipping. I’m definitely going to take my time with this rifle since I’ve had it for 2 years without doing much to it. I only have a few hundred dollars in it and if the barrel turns out OK, I’ll work on pulling some of that gun oil out of the stock and do some crack repairs. It also needs a new main/hammer spring screw (at least I think it’s the hammer spring, I don’t know a lot about them yet) as the previous owner did some bubba gunsmithing work instead of finding a replacement screw and/or spring (see pic attached).
Jerry
I'm more of a shooter than a collector, but I do have a few collectibles.
Philippians 1:6
jertex said
It also needs a new mainspring screw (at least I think it’s the mainspring, I don’t know a lot about them yet) as the previous owner did some bubba gunsmithing work instead of finding a replacement screw and/or spring (see pic attached).
The original mainspring screw screwed in from the inside. If the threads in the lower tang have been stripped, you’ll have a problem with a new screw. There are videos on You Tube demonstrating how to disassemble the rcvr.
Even if it is stripped out, I can think of a couple of different ways to repair it that would be better than having that screw and nut sticking out of the bottom tang and interfering with the lever. It wouldn’t surprise me if the guy lost the screw and just rigged this up because it’s what was laying around.
Jerry
I'm more of a shooter than a collector, but I do have a few collectibles.
Philippians 1:6
Bert H. said
jertex said
S/N is 673434 which, if I’m reading the s/n charts correctly makes it a 1913 rifle. The guy I got it from suggested soaking it in Evaporust, so I plugged the muzzle with a cork and soaked it for a couple of days, then ran a brush through it with little effect. I’ll get some Kroil and see if I get better results.
May 1914 is the actual date of manufacture.
I have never used Evaporust (or even heard of it).
Bert, how did you come up with the exact month & yr of manufacture? The s/n list I found indicates that it would have been made in 1913. I’ve attached it here for reference (I think I downloaded it off of this site).
Jerry
I'm more of a shooter than a collector, but I do have a few collectibles.
Philippians 1:6
clarence said
jertex said
It also needs a new mainspring screw (at least I think it’s the mainspring, I don’t know a lot about them yet) as the previous owner did some bubba gunsmithing work instead of finding a replacement screw and/or spring (see pic attached).
The original mainspring screw screwed in from the inside. If the threads in the lower tang have been stripped, you’ll have a problem with a new screw. There are videos on You Tube demonstrating how to disassemble the rcvr.
The Hammer spring has the threads and is Not attached from the inside , the tang has a through hole. U can get used proper screws and hammer spring on the interweb and I would get both before you disassemble. I’d replace the lower tang as well, that nut is gonna leave a pretty good gouge on that tang.
Clarence, Where do you get your information if you don’t mind me asking?
Bobbys94 said
Clarence, Where do you get your information if you don’t mind me asking?
From my Gun Digest disassembly manual, which shows a photo of the screw coming down from the top side of the mainspring.
Don’t know what’s in the digest. Have You ever done a major tear down on any early 1894?
I have probably done a tear down on 35 to 40 early 94’s and Not One had a hammer spring attach from the inside.
Bobbys94 said
I have probably done a tear down on 35 to 40 early 94’s and Not One had a mainspring attach from the inside.
Well, the one in the Digest close-up photo has one. This is one vol of a 4 vol set (1980) that includes large photos of every step of disassembly, which is why I prefer it to manuals with only drawings. The caption even remarks that turning it is more easily done with an angled-bit screwdriver. The screw location was obviously changed on later ’94s, which I didn’t know.
clarence said
Bobbys94 said
I have probably done a tear down on 35 to 40 early 94’s and Not One had a mainspring attach from the inside.
Well, the one in the Digest close-up photo has one. This is one vol of a 4 vol set (1980) that includes large photos of every step of disassembly, which is why I prefer it to manuals with only drawings. The caption even remarks that turning it is more easily done with an angled-bit screwdriver. The screw location was obviously changed on later ’94s, which I didn’t know.
So…Your answer to my question is “No” U have not done a compete disassembly on Any early 94″s ?
jertex said
Bert H. said
jertex said
S/N is 673434 which, if I’m reading the s/n charts correctly makes it a 1913 rifle. The guy I got it from suggested soaking it in Evaporust, so I plugged the muzzle with a cork and soaked it for a couple of days, then ran a brush through it with little effect. I’ll get some Kroil and see if I get better results.
May 1914 is the actual date of manufacture.
I have never used Evaporust (or even heard of it).
Bert, how did you come up with the exact month & yr of manufacture? The s/n list I found indicates that it would have been made in 1913. I’ve attached it here for reference (I think I downloaded it off of this site).
The information you found is on the Browning Arms website, and it is not accurate. If you use WACA website tool – Dates | Winchester Collector
you will get more accurate DOM information. I created the WACA DOM look-up tables using the original Winchester serialization records at the CFM. When I began the research (many years ago) to create it, I recorded the last serial number applied in each month & year for all of the models that the CFM has records for. Due to the size of the database required to cover all of the different models, the online version of my DOM tables only lists the last serial number for each year a specific model was manufactured.
Bert
WACA Historian & Board of Director Member #6571L
Thanks, Bert. I guess I’m more of a collector than I thought, or maybe an “accumulator” of lever guns in general. I almost forgot I have a pre-64 1894 in 32 Win Special. I got if for a song because it didn’t cycle properly. My gunsmith replaced one $30 part and it works great. I have it taken apart at the moment because the stock had been replaced at some time in the past and the finish didn’t match. I’m going to strip both the stock & forend & match ’em up with a simple tongue oil finish. I’ve had it apart for a year now and I think I’ll get this done this winter as one of my winter projects. The S/N on this one is 1765996, which dates it at 1951. The bluing is very nice for a 71 year old gun and I think I’m going to really enjoy it once I get it done.
Jerry
I'm more of a shooter than a collector, but I do have a few collectibles.
Philippians 1:6
I’m eager to hear how well the bore cleans up.
I don’t have any suggestions to add. I recently purchased a bottle of Sharp Shooter R Wipe-Out brushless lead remover. But I’ve yet to try it. Anyone else use this product or have thoughts on it?
The losso brushes came in, I’ll be working on the rifle this evening and let you know my progress.
Jerry
I'm more of a shooter than a collector, but I do have a few collectibles.
Philippians 1:6
steve004 said
I’m eager to hear how well the bore cleans up.I don’t have any suggestions to add. I recently purchased a bottle of Sharp Shooter R Wipe-Out brushless lead remover. But I’ve yet to try it. Anyone else use this product or have thoughts on it?
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1014881110
I have used their Patch Out Wipe Out and the Accelerator. This stuff does not say for lead lead though. Just carbon and copper. It is best used with Iosso brushes. It will foam up and get into all the defects. You can let it sit in the barrel as long as you wish. I have found this stuff works best on a relatively clean barrel.
Let us know how the lead product works.
I soaked the bore for 5 days in liquid wrench as I didn’t have any Kroil on-hand, I ran the losso brush through it several times this evening, and the bore seems to be in drastically better shape. I’ve had trouble getting a good pic, probably because I came down with the flu a couple of days ago and I feel like crud, but I would load it up and shoot it at this point and see what happens at 25 yards, then 50. I may work up some lighter-than-factory loads just as a precaution, but I can’t get to the range until Saturday anyway, so I have time to think about it and hopefully feel better by that time.
Jerry
I'm more of a shooter than a collector, but I do have a few collectibles.
Philippians 1:6
Here are a couple of pics of the bore after soaking and cleaning with the losso brush, but I discovered another problem: the gun can be fired when in the half-cock position and the trigger can be pulled when the lever isn’t fully closed. Is this a hammer issue, sear issue, or possibly both?
Jerry
I'm more of a shooter than a collector, but I do have a few collectibles.
Philippians 1:6
jertex said the trigger can be pulled when the lever isn’t fully closed.
What is supposed to prevent this from happening is the safety pin that protrudes through the lower tang & is pushed up by the lever when it closes. If that’s stuck in the “up” position, it would fire as you described.
clarence said
jertex said the trigger can be pulled when the lever isn’t fully closed.
What is supposed to prevent this from happening is the safety pin that protrudes through the lower tang & is pushed up by the lever when it closes. If that’s stuck in the “up” position, it would fire as you described.
Great information, I’m guessing this is what I’m seeing in this pic.
Jerry
I'm more of a shooter than a collector, but I do have a few collectibles.
Philippians 1:6
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