TR said
skierd,I used to take every gun I bought apart, clean, oil, and inspect. Now I look at some of those guns and see the original unturned screws that I was the first to turn, the sealed stock to metal fit is not there, the little scratch I made getting it apart, and realize I made a mistake. I have changed my mind and don’t want to be the first to down grade a gun. If the gun is marked up, screws turned, abused, and or broke I go for it. If not I do the minimum very carefully with the proper tools and technique. I do not want anyone to say I down graded the gun.
A new collector doesn’t understand at first but if he stays at it he realizes it’s only original once. You can do a lot from the outside.
I have seen some real ugly cleanups so I give anyone asking the same advice. Go slow. T/R
I’ve come to the same conclusion myself. Lots can be lost when touching something that hasn’t been touched for 100+ years. The other thing to remember is even if you use the appropriate tools, anyone can make a mistake. Even brain surgeons make mistakes.
Zebulon said
That looks mighty good, to me. It looks like you left all the character and color and got rid of the crud.I’ll be curious to know what our guys think. Leave well enough alone or wipe on a little boiled linseed oil?
It’s good you caught that split because you can stop it and make it stronger from inside the mortise.
That sure is a fine-looking Winchester for its age!
Getting rid of crud and corrosion is the goal, using the gentlest means possible so I don’t remove original character and flaws from a century of use. I’m not the first person to turn screws on this gun, and it has been used over the years. I want to preserve as much of that character as I can while also removing finishes and oils that have failed so I can prevent bigger problems from showing up in the future. Like the imminent stock failure. Like the rusty tang I found under the nice looking wood on my 1947 Remington Model 11, disintegrating recoil spring plug on my 1905 Model 8, and the gelled goo that was once oil or grease that gummed up the action of my Smith & Wesson 38/44 so badly it was difficult to cock the hammer.
It might not be historically correct, I’ll be applying tung oil (real milk paint co 100% pure tung oil mixed 50-50 with mineral spirits) to protect the wood after I address the split. I prefer tung oil to BLO, and have plenty on hand from finishing the stock on my Kibler Woodsrunner flintlock.
I was able to remove the forearm and magazine tube this morning, and cleaned the shellac off of the forearm. Lots of grit, a little bit of grime, a little bit of rust, but no major lurking catastrophes.
I also got a glimpse of the original blueing still hiding on the underside of the barrel. This would have been a pretty nice looking rifle back in the day.
Tedk said
Stocks an original set? Lighting?
I believe he said the stocks were original; that the gun had been in his family.
- Bill
WACA # 65205; life member, NRA; member, TGCA; member, TSRA; amateur preservationist
"I have seen wicked men and fools, a great many of both, and I believe they both get paid in the end, but the fools first." -- David Balfour, narrator and protagonist of the novel, Kidnapped, by Robert Louis Stevenson.
Zebulon said
Tedk said
Stocks an original set? Lighting?
I believe he said the stocks were original; that the gun had been in his family.
As far as I know the stocks are original. The stock took a bit more work to get clean, I used a 0000 equivalent pad and alcohol to clean both but the stock needed a bit more elbow grease and more work to get clean. I’ll hit the forearm a bit more and see if I can get the color closer, or start searching here for stains that are close to the original Winchester red.
I think the stock looks great as it is unless you want to wipe on some boiled linseed oil and rub it off, etc. for protection and to slow moisture absorption. The color, now that it shows through, is dead right for an antique Winchester of that vintage.
The forearm color maybe looks darker because of what’s still on top of it but once you get that off, hopefully without biting too far into the stain layer, perhaps a little colored oil rather than trying to hit the exact shade of stain…I’d be very slow to add stain, myself.
Judging from the grain, it may be some of the color difference between stock and forearm is the difference between the natural darker color of heartwood and lighter color of sapwoood, now showing through the deteriorated stain Winchester used to homogenize wood color..
Just my opinion. The gun is really looking good, at this point.
- Bill
WACA # 65205; life member, NRA; member, TGCA; member, TSRA; amateur preservationist
"I have seen wicked men and fools, a great many of both, and I believe they both get paid in the end, but the fools first." -- David Balfour, narrator and protagonist of the novel, Kidnapped, by Robert Louis Stevenson.
I think you should change you’re moniker to, “Not Scared”! LOL!
Looking great as you’re pictures and intentions are sure proving the plan that you talked about.
Now is the most important time when you start to make progress, and you don’t take it too far trying to make it look new! IMO!
Anthony
Anthony said
I think you should change you’re moniker to, “Not Scared”! LOL!Looking great as you’re pictures and intentions are sure proving the plan that you talked about.
Now is the most important time when you start to make progress, and you don’t take it too far trying to make it look new! IMO!
Anthony
Concur 100%. Knowing when to stop is the ultimate badge of expert restoration. Lots of nice old guns have gone from nice to “for parts only” for lack of it.
- Bill
WACA # 65205; life member, NRA; member, TGCA; member, TSRA; amateur preservationist
"I have seen wicked men and fools, a great many of both, and I believe they both get paid in the end, but the fools first." -- David Balfour, narrator and protagonist of the novel, Kidnapped, by Robert Louis Stevenson.
Bill,
You and I are in agreement once again, as that wood looks like how we would prefer to see it!
Maybe just rubbing some Renaissance wax, on all the exposed surfaces, and even the inside areas that could suck up moisture, as I’ve done in the past, and skipping the tongue oil or whatever else might be on hand, wouldn’t hurt it! IMHO!
Anthony
I agree with Zebulon. Put boiled linseed oil on it until all the dry spots disappear. Then buff it with a rag. You could also peen the messed up screw heads. Use a brass punch and knock the bad spots toward the groove center. Once you move what you can then file the inner edges to clean up the groove. If it had more blue a black magic marker would cover the shiny spots.
Magic marker only works until you wipe it down just like some cold blue.
Bob
WACA Life Member--- NRA Life Member---- Cody Firearms member since 1991 Researching the Winchester 1873's
Email: [email protected]
So it really it seems like Poppy really just brushed this thing with a ton of shellac in order to protect it? The more of it I wiped off the deeper it went, around the metal and the joints and under the stock line and into the internals. As the Shellac came off it became more and more clear that the nice even brown coating was less patina and more oxidized old shellac over very fine grained light brown rust and the original blueing, so I made the decision to break the gun down most of the rest of the way to get the rest of the shellac off and clean out the rest of the dirt and grit and rust.
I’ve been very lucky so far that really none of the screws or pins on this gun have fought me much. The lifter spring screws are in very firmly so I haven’t really tried to back them out yet (and may not, with everything else out I can get around them to flush out what’s underneath). I also haven’t attempted to remove the hammer pin or mainspring screw, and again may or may not depending on the resistance I get.
I will not be re-blueing, but I will be boiling, carding, and oiling. I will not be re-staining the wood, just fixing the stock crack and tung oiling it.
I fully understand that many of you will have the opinion that all I have managed to do is ruin this gun’s value. From a pure collector’s I guess I can see that, but for me and my family it’s more important that the gun gets cared for and put back in to shape.
I think you’re doing a very nice job at preserving the history of this fine family heirloom! It’s you’re gun, so doing it the way you see fit is you’re prerogative.
Sealing everything with Renaissance wax, inside and out, keeping the moisture and rust, out of the wood, and metal, wouldn’t hurt it, if you so chose too. Years ago I bought a bunch of industrial q-tips, from Brownell’s Gun supplies, of various sizes, and even the wooden sticks are stronger than anything else on them, making them great for what you’re doing.
Flitz Polish, is also good for the metal parts, as in today’s world it’s better than just wiping some oil on the metal, that will, evaporate or, disappear, with time. It just can’t be used on Case Colored metal, which you don’t have, so no issues there.
Enjoying you’re progress and pictures. Thanks for posting!
Anthony
skierd said
I will not be re-blueing, but I will be boiling, carding, and oiling. I will not be re-staining the wood, just fixing the stock crack and tung oiling it.
I fully understand that many of you will have the opinion that all I have managed to do is ruin this gun’s value. From a pure collector’s I guess I can see that, but for me and my family it’s more important that the gun gets cared for and put back in to shape.
Mark Novak would be proud! 😉
So it really it seems like Poppy really just brushed this thing with a ton of shellac in order to protect it? The more of it I wiped off the deeper it went, around the metal and the joints and under the stock line and into the internals. As the Shellac came off it became more and more clear that the nice even brown coating was less patina and more oxidized old shellac over very fine grained light brown rust and the original blueing, so I made the decision to break the gun down most of the rest of the way to get the rest of the shellac off and clean out the rest of the dirt and grit and rust.
I’ve been very lucky so far that really none of the screws or pins on this gun have fought me much. The lifter spring screws are in very firmly so I haven’t really tried to back them out yet (and may not, with everything else out I can get around them to flush out what’s underneath). I also haven’t attempted to remove the hammer pin or mainspring screw, and again may or may not depending on the resistance I get.
I will not be re-blueing, but I will be boiling, carding, and oiling. I will not be re-staining the wood, just fixing the stock crack and tung oiling it.
I fully understand that many of you will have the opinion that all I have managed to do is ruin this gun’s value. From a pure collector’s I guess I can see that, but for me and my family it’s more important that the gun gets cared for and put back in to shape.
I for one don’t think you are ruining it. Now, a full restoration would do that. If you haven’t used tung oil before it acts just like boiled linseed oil. You have to let it dry and then wipe it with a rag to get off any of the stickyness that is left.
I have, I used tung oil to finish the stock on my Kibler Woodsrunner that I built (ok, finished and assembled) last year. I ordered it with the carved maple stock and after light sanding to remove the tool marks I stained the wood with iron nitrate. First 3 coats of tung oil was Real Milk Paint CO’s dark tung oil mixed 25/75 with mineral spirits, then 50/50 RMP 100% pure tung oil mixed with mineral spirits for several more coats, wiped and buffed with 0000 equivalent pads between coats and applied with old t shirts or foam brushes.
I also have a couple other early 1900’s firearms to compare to, mostly Remingtons (bonus points if you know what they are and why they go together!) and a 1894 with a 64 front end hobgoblin from 1900 or so.
Agree with Chuck that you are not “ruining it.” Unless a rifle of this type and in the condition it came to you had been owned by Red Cloud or Naiche, a “Collector” [note the capital “C” to indicate “insufferable”] would not consider it “collectible” or give you a half book of S&H Green Stamps and a yo-yo for it in trade. [Except for the shellac, that may overstate the case a bit.]
Which, in my eyes [ and those of many Members here], is to entirely miss the point. It is a family heirloom and that alone entitles it to dignity and respect, even if you never touched it.
However, for the husband of the direct lineal descendant of the original owner to PRESERVE and EXTEND the life of his wife’s ancestor’s rifle and use his considerable skills to restore its utility and appearance, is worthy and honorable in any civilized society.
What you are doing is insuring that your own descendants are much more likely to take care of it. Guns with “condition” — original or restored – survive better and longer, after you’re gone. Fact, not opinion.
- Bill
WACA # 65205; life member, NRA; member, TGCA; member, TSRA; amateur preservationist
"I have seen wicked men and fools, a great many of both, and I believe they both get paid in the end, but the fools first." -- David Balfour, narrator and protagonist of the novel, Kidnapped, by Robert Louis Stevenson.
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