A lot of 1894 Tools or Winchester Reloading Tools in general for that matter will be missing their original de-capping pin, as they’re easily lost. To find a correct original pin will take you some time, and most the pins out there will have the appropriate tool to go with them. Also doubt most people would sell you the pin separate from the Tool. 

There are a couple of guys out there that are making “reproduction” pins. You can usually stumble across them on Ebay. They are trying to pass them off as original pins and may even tell you they are original. One guy in California claims “he doesn’t know if they are original or not”. They are not. They usually will be slightly off on the dimensions of an original pin. They won’t have the correct markings on them and usually the bluing doesn’t match. There is a guy on the northeast that makes nearly identical “reproduction” pins that will come up for sale every once in a while. Most people probably wouldn’t know is pins are repos. His pins are expensive, well made, and you don’t see them for sell that often.

For the simple purpose of using the reloading tool, those Ebay pins are a good replacement.

Winchester produced quite a few different calibers in the 1894 Reloading Tool.

.236 U.S. Navy, .25-35, .25-35 short range, .30 Winchester (30-30), .30 Winchester Short Range, .32 Winchester Special, .303 Savage, .30 Army (30-40Krag), .30 Army Short Range, .32-40, 32-40 S.R., 38-55, 38-55 SR, 38-56 Winchester, 38-70, 38-72, 40-60, 40-65, 40-70, 40-72, 40-82, .42 Russian, .42 Berdan, .43 Spanish, 44-77 Patched, 45-60, 45-75, 45-90, 45-70 Model 1886 (45-70 F.P.), 45-70-330 Hollow Ball, 45-70-350 Solid Ball, 45-70 U.S. Gov’t, 45-70-500 U.S. Gov’t, 45-70 Marlin, 45-125 Express, .50 Carbine, .50-60-70 Musket, 50-95 Express, 50-100-450 Winchester, & 50-110 Express. 

And beyond those they made special order calibers as well.

Hope that gets you started in the right direction.

Sincerely,

Maverick

P.S. Please see my Reloading Tool Survey under the Research Forum Topic. If you end up catching the reloading tool bug or if you have a friend that already has, give me a shout. I’m always interested in discussing Winchester Reloading Tools. 

These are the type of reproduction pins that I’m referring to.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Winchester-Reloading-Tool-Decapping-Pin-Assembly-44-40-WCF-Rifle-Pistol-/361427446430?hash=item5426c12a9e:g:8eMAAOSwYHxWQ2tN

Maverick

Well to quickly answer your question (and it may seem obvious for me to state this), I don’t know of the specific measurements for each caliber pin. A couple of reasons why. I’d have to check and see if I have a original pin for each caliber you listed. Then there is the model Tool for which pin would be utilized. Granted all 5 calibers you listed were made for the 1894 Tool only but the 32-40 & 38-55 were also made in the 1891, 1888, & 1880 Tools. Which each one model of those has a different shaped pin. 

If we are specific to the 1894 Tool, then basically all of the 5 calibers you listed will have different dimensions. If your trying to make/reproduce pins, the diameter needs to slightly smaller than that of the mouth of the cartridge and the overall length needs to be slightly longer than the overall length of the cartridge in order to work properly. You might could make yourself a .32 caliber diameter pin that would work for both the 32w.s. & 32-40. Or even make a .25 caliber diameter pin that would de-cap all 5 calibers.

The original pins were made for each corresponding caliber to the corresponding tool and marked so. This is essentially why you can’t merely swap out the dies from one tool to the other. 

Sincerely,

Maverick

Here is a picture of a 1894 tool die with the flare nipple on the end. The flare would be the same for all 32 calipers. This one measures .335″ at the largest diameter.

Bob

Gary Long,

As Bob / 1873Man has stated basically you just need to use the flare at the bottom of the die.

To quote the original instruction sheet. “TO RELOAD THE CARTRIDGE.  Use the plug which accompanies the outfit to knock out the primer. A projection at the base of the die A is made, upon which to open the mouth of the shell. The primer may then be inserted. For this purpose a fork is made on the slide formed to hold the head of the shell (see cut). A projection is also made on the end of the lever opposite. The tool, by the motion of the lever, will pinch the primer into the shell. Powder can then be poured into the shell, and the bullet inserted by hand. It should be remembered that the die is a vital part of this tool. The most accurate work has been done upon it. It can be spoiled by allowing it to rust, or by scraping it with a sharp tool. Dirt should be kept out of it by wiping. Nothing harder than wood should be used in cleaning it out. In using, the die or shell should be slightly oiled. When thus assembled, the cartridge may be put into the die, and the loading completed as above described. A set comprising bullet mold, charge-cup and primer extractor accompanies the tool. The tool weighs two pounds.”

Only the 1880, & 1882 Model Tools used the decapper with the flarred end, which wasn’t patented until 1882. All later Model Tools (the 1888, 1891, 1894) had a provision on them for widening the mouth of the spent cartridge shell. The 1875 Tool only used / was designed to use a straight unflarred decapping pin. But an effective method for flarring the mouth of the shell on the 1875, 1880, & early 1882 Tools would have been to press the shell against the bottom of the rounded portion of the die of the said tool. It would have slightly opened the mouth up enough to serve the same purpose. 

Sincerely,

Maverick