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first off, just joined the forum. I’m really dont know much about winchesters, I’ve had 2 others a 1972 30-30 I picked up at a yard sale and a 1912 parts gun off of backpage a couple years ago.
Anyway just picked up a new rifle at the swap meet. guy bought it at a yard sale, they demo’d a house and it was found in the wall. as far as I can tell it’s a saddle ring carbine. couple screws are wrong as they are machine screws with a square nut. it seems complete, maybe the hammer spring is broke since the hammer doesnt go forward. wood is weathered. the serial number is in the 482xxx range.
I guess I would like to know where is a good place to order replacement screws and hammer spring. since it’s got zero original finish, is it a candidate for a buff and cold blue? or just leave it and coat it with oil? thanks. jim
found numrich had the missing parts, main spring, screw, tang? stock screw, front pivot pin and retaining screw. 46 bucks with shipping. jim
November 7, 2015
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Sounds like you’re off to a great start. After you get it in operating condition you can make the call on the cosmetic issues. You can settle for a shooter or spend as much time and money on a cosmetic restoration as your resources allow. Wood might need some attention to prevent further degradation.
Mike
could anyone tell me what stock works on these src? Any pre 64 stock the same size? thanks. jim
jim mac said
could anyone tell me what stock works on these src? Any pre 64 stock the same size? thanks. jim
Jim,
You need to find a pre-1936 production Model 1892 or 1894 Carbine stock for it to be correct.
Bert
WACA Historian & Board of Director Member #6571L
is there any place I should look for a correct stock? will any pre64 stock fit?
worst case, I’ll see if i can inlay a repair piece, pin and epoxy it to make it fit. thanks! jim
Jim,
ebay is a great source of original parts. At any given time, there are many hundreds of Winchester parts listed for sale.
Bert
WACA Historian & Board of Director Member #6571L
there was a correct factory second new stock for 66 dollars shipped, since my original is in such bad shape, I went and bought it. while playing with the rifle, i noticed the firing pin doesnt protrude thru the bolt when the pin is pushed forward. so I’m probably in the market for a new pin. Is there a drop in firing pin available for this model?
Also noticed the safety stud wasnt protruding thru the lower tang, there was a burr, knocked the burr off, put the spring back on top of the part and the trigger functions correctly.
So Friday the pins, screws and spring should be here, Monday the stock is due in. Anyone know what varnish or stain to use for a old look? thank you.
I’ve got pics posted on team chevelle, bench racing forum and the luger forum under off topic or other firearms. jim
okay, parts came in today, installed the hammer spring, and screw. loaded 1 round in the tube, cock the lever and the bullet just falls on the floor plate?
looking inside and trying to find a decent schematic. it looks like I’m missing the carrier. I see a carrier spring listed too but cant figure out where that might go. the side of the rifle has the screws that looks like the carrier pivots on.
I see we have a company called homestead parts, I may see if they will let me haul this thing out there and let them tell me what else I may be missing. Or just throw in the towel and give up. jim
November 7, 2015
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I’ve had good service several times from Homestead Parts and enjoy spending time browsing their “For Sale” guns section. If you live close enough to drop by I’d certainly give them a call to see if they’re willing & able to help. Hang in there, you’re getting close. If you get frustrated just put it aside for awhile, this gun’s been waiting a long time to be put back in working order and a few days, weeks or even years isn’t a big deal. It’s easy to damage a gun if you’re frustrated or impatient.
Mike
my impatience got to me, ordered a used carrier for a pre64 30 30 off Ebay. watched a few videos on taking these apart and putting back together I think I have all my parts for the gun now.
ran a brush down the barrel and it looks like that barrel of my yugo M72 RPK. rifling there, but definitely not like new. fed a live round into the chamber so the chamber is clean.
even though the carbine isnt pretty, it’s got character and nothing is broke. My last one was a 1912 rifle with a octoganal barrel, it was missing more parts and the tang was broke. jim
A member on the outer forum brought up a point about not doing a amateur restoration because it can ruin any collectability of the rifle. I do see his point but my thoughts are just replacing missing parts wouldn’t be considered a restoration, the parts aren’t numbered like a luger. Im not scrubbing the finish, basically knocking off the old dirt. Only new part if the stock because the original is in such bad shape. Im still keeping the original stock, just fitting a new stock to make it stable.
Not even sure what the rifle might be worth, if I had any brains I could have just brought it home and advertised it on armslist. Made a few bucks and moved on. But its such a neat old gun I decided to get it running again and probably keep it. Jim
jim mac said
A member on the outer forum brought up a point about not doing a amateur restoration because it can ruin any collectability of the rifle. I do see his point but my thoughts are just replacing missing parts wouldn’t be considered a restoration, the parts aren’t numbered like a luger. Im not scrubbing the finish, basically knocking off the old dirt. Only new part if the stock because the original is in such bad shape. Im still keeping the original stock, just fitting a new stock to make it stable.Not even sure what the rifle might be worth, if I had any brains I could have just brought it home and advertised it on armslist. Made a few bucks and moved on. But its such a neat old gun I decided to get it running again and probably keep it. Jim
Parts are parts as long as they are period correct and look like the rest of the gun. Not seeing the stock, I can’t comment on which is the better move. The finish on the stock should look like the forend.
I’ll keep the original stock as is, its split under the tang so its wider than the rifle, pieces are missing from the factory edges and basically the guts. Probably a common issue with 100 year old wood not properly stored. Ut does flop around pretty good. jim
gotta love this stuff (a little sarcasm) went to fit the oversized carbine stock and got the front close enough. got to looking at the buttplate and it doesnt even look like the same part. Looking at some pictures, it looks like I’ve got a rifle stock on this carbine by the crescent shape of the buttplate.
now to decide if I can 1. stick it under the bandsaw and rough cut it and fit the buttplate 2. go on Ebay and order a correct metal buttplate or option 3 is to stick a recoil pad over the back end and just call it done.
this is just like working on my old chevelle, stuff gets swapped around. jim
jim mac said
gotta love this stuff (a little sarcasm) went to fit the oversized carbine stock and got the front close enough. got to looking at the buttplate and it doesnt even look like the same part. Looking at some pictures, it looks like I’ve got a rifle stock on this carbine by the crescent shape of the buttplate.now to decide if I can 1. stick it under the bandsaw and rough cut it and fit the buttplate 2. go on Ebay and order a correct metal buttplate or option 3 is to stick a recoil pad over the back end and just call it done.
this is just like working on my old chevelle, stuff gets swapped around. jim
A recoil pad would be the easiest but least desirable. Cutting the stock to fit a carbine butt plate would be some work. If you go this route make a jig to hold it while you cut it. Make sure you cut it a little oversize so you can hand fit the butt plate. I am not sure if the stock will end up too short though? I have seen crescent butt plates on carbines but I don’t recommend it. This will be a great learning experience. Maybe a new carbine stock is in your future?
November 7, 2015
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A rifle butt plate would be the easiest but IMHO least desireable. Cutting it off straight for a shotgun butt plate would be my first choice for a shooter but it you’re interested in orignality finding a carbine butt may be best. I don’t know if the shotgun butt was an option for carbines of this era but I suspect they were. That would probably reduce the length of pull by about 1/2”.
Mike
I really have to figure out how to post pics on this site. but the carrier came in this afternoon, I was surprised how easy it went in. put a live round in and it cycled fine, ejected fine.
the stock on the other hand, I wont have access to a band saw for a couple weeks. Is there different types of rifle buttplate? mine has a pretty good arch like a crescent, not a easy cut trying to keep a oval square. I spent a couple hours with some scrap metal, a grinder and a vice and tried to bend one from scratch. Definitely easier to just order one.
if it shoots, I’ll be happy. jim
Carbines only came with 1 type of buttplate. Rifles came with several types. Either of the metal buttplates (carbine or rifle) have an arch but they also wrap onto the top of the stock too. The wood is cut to fit the type you need. It would save you a lot of time and effort if you bought a carbine stock.
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