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66 help needed
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nascar fan
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September 5, 2017 - 11:06 pm
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Thanks for that. It seems unbroken and I’ll just clean it as best I can in place. Boy, it sure looks like a pricey deal to shoot 44 RF’s. I quick look at cartridges scared the crap out of me.

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1873man
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September 5, 2017 - 11:18 pm
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Your probably not going to shoot it since most the old shells will not go off anyway. I shot a 66 rifle twice about 25 years ago and that was with Dominion brand shells I paid $5 apiece. First one went off on the first hit and the second took two hits to go off. I have seen many of the shells with multiple strikes and never went off so with today’s prices you are gambling a lot to fire it.

Bob

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Wincacher
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September 5, 2017 - 11:23 pm
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The firing pin should slide back and forth a little in the breech.  If it doesn’t, I would put Kroil on the firing pin shaft and let it soak into the breech overnight.  If it still won’t slide out manually I’d leave it as is.  You don’t want to break the pin.

1876-4-1.jpg

"This is the West, sir. When the legend becomes fact, print the legend." 

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TR
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September 6, 2017 - 12:20 am
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  The lever spring and elevator spring are different than a 1873, if you buy repro sometimes the elevator lift and timing is off. I would advise you to hunt for original 1866 serviceable parts. It has been my experience that homemade or repro internal parts adversely affect the timing of the action or worse. Example, use a repro lever spring that hits the side plate and causes the side plate to bend when you tighten the side plate screws. Be careful and take your time. T/R

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September 6, 2017 - 12:51 am
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I found and ordered the parts from “Homestead”. I’ll watch close when they go in.

One other question. My butt stock has the brass rifle butt plate with trap door but stock hole under the trap door is only about 1″ deep. Did the muskets not have cleaning rods or has the stock been changed?

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TR
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September 6, 2017 - 1:24 am
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 Winchester would not have put a trapdoor in the butt plate if the stock did not have a hole long enough for cleaning rods. T/R

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September 6, 2017 - 6:26 pm
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1873man said
Your probably not going to shoot it since most the old shells will not go off anyway. I shot a 66 rifle twice about 25 years ago and that was with Dominion brand shells I paid $5 apiece. First one went off on the first hit and the second took two hits to go off. I have seen many of the shells with multiple strikes and never went off so with today’s prices you are gambling a lot to fire it.

Bob  

I’ve wondered if these new .22 LR reloading kits with priming compound would be able to Reload the .44 Henry Rimfire Shells.

I don’t have a Model 66 or a Henry to try it out on, but I do have a Henry Deringer Philadelphia 32 Rimfire 5 shot revolver I’m thinking about trying it with.

Has anyone else thought of this and tried it?

Here is link to an article talking about the reloading kit.

https://www.ssusa.org/articles/2015/8/18/reloading-22-long-rifle-a-new-option-for-competitors/

Sincerely,

Maverick

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1873man
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September 6, 2017 - 7:04 pm
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Maverick,

The process sounds doable, the only hitch is going to be getting the empty shell cases. Are you going to pull collectable rounds that could be worth $50 a round. I have two that I saved when I fired them and the back of the cases bulge out so it would have to be reformed. They are copper cases.

Bob

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73_86cutaway.jpg

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September 7, 2017 - 10:04 pm
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Any clue on these barrel markings?IMG_1452.JPGImage Enlarger

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1873man
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September 8, 2017 - 1:15 am
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Normally there will be three C”s on the bottom which are the inspector marks but for some reason this one has 4 C’s. the last mark is a “3”.

Bob

WACA Life Member---
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September 8, 2017 - 1:40 am
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This is the marking on the bottom of an 1866 carbine barrel, made in 1876.

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1876-4-1.jpg

"This is the West, sir. When the legend becomes fact, print the legend." 

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1873man
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September 8, 2017 - 2:17 am
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Usually the inspector marks were real close the the breech, probable were the grind marks are.

Bob

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Researching the Winchester 1873's

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