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I am building a 1873 44-40 from original parts. I have noticed even refinished parts are worth less. I need to clean all the parts without damaging or lowering the value. What is the best cleaners and oil to do this? Simple green water and MPro7? I have a but stock that looks like it had tape removed removing some of the finish. Any suggestions on fixing (strip and oil) or should I just oil it up? Type of oil? I will take pictures this week end.
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I’ve cleaned some pretty filthy ’73s and ’76’s. For the iron parts, I use extra fine steel wool lubed with a little oil. It removes hard crud, but it does not abrade the actual metal. DO NOT do this for the brass lifter, however. They are a pain and I don’t have a good way of cleaning the brass lifter up inside. As for the wood, there was an excellent article posted on Tapaderawinchesters several years ago on reparing the finish on stocks. Send m a PM with your email address and I will attach a copy of that article.
When I clean up an old Winchester, there are just a few things in my cleaning supply box;
100% pure acetone
Kroil (penetrating oil)
Pure copper wool pads.
For the stocks, I use regular furniture cleaning oil. To remove tape residue or similar foreign matter off of the stocks, use Goo Gone.
The standard finish for the Model 1873 stocks was as oil finish.
Bert
WACA Historian & Board of Director Member #6571L
Best thing I have found for the metal is a 5 gallon pale of carburetor cleaner. It will take every bit of crud, burned powder residue , dried oil/grease etc, and not harm the blue or case colors. Just strip the rifle down, put the barreled receiver in bucket, and small parts in a basket. Leave overnight and rinse with brake cleaner, followed by a light coat of oil.
Steve
Have any of you guys ever used one of the new Ultra Sonic cleaners for gun parts?
I imagine the carburetor cleaner & brake cleaner will miss up any wood finish.
Maverick
WACA #8783 - Checkout my Reloading Tool Survey!
https://winchestercollector.org/forum/winchester-research-surveys/winchester-reloading-tool-survey/
Carb cleaner will absolutely mess up the wood finish, that’s why it’s “for the metal”.
I used to use carb cleaner, the I saw the list of ingredients, and quite a few contain methyl Ethel ketene or MEK, nasty stuff.
I also went the ultrasonic route for a while, dropped a chunk of change on a Crest brand commercial grade cleaner, didn’t like the finish it left on parts, would actually leave a frosted finish on mirror polished parts. Then the very expensive machine died on me…. Made in China
Finally figured out simple is better, went to my local second hand store, bought a 6 qt crock post for $5, fill it with water, add about ½ cup of Tri sodium Phosphate (TSP), and about 6 or 7 tablespoons of Dawn dish soap, crank it on high and let it sit for a few hours. Parts come out gunk free. If you’re not familiar with TSP, its the stuff that they uded to put in dish and laundry soap that would actually make the soap work. Find it in your local hardware store.
The mix will not hurt bluing, CCH brass etc, just takes the gunk out. Parts will not rust while in the mixture, but once you take them out oil well, as the solution leaves the parts completely oil free.
I second Mike’s comment on the ultra sonic cleaners. I have a couple of commercial units that we use at my shop. It definitely can micro etch the surface of metal.
In regards to the carb cleaner, the one I use has a water seal layer on top that pretty much stops the odor and drag-out of cleaner when parts are removed. I have a large parts solvent tank next to the carb cleaner, and the parts go right from the carb cleaner into the solvent tank, and then a final rinse with the fast evaporating brake cleaner.
Steve
I use an UltraSonic cleaner I bought at Harbor Freight for $39 with Lyman’s Sonic Gun Parts cleaner. Works amazingly well. Every nook and cranny is clean as bee’s knees. I just did a 1892 I pucked up fo a song and everything, inclding the receiver, went for an Ultrasonic bath. Came out looking great. No change to the patina, just clean and now it functions.
Do not use any solvents except Lyman or others designed for Sonic Cleaners. DO NOT USE SIMPLE GREEN…….it will etch parts, remove blueing and destroy aluminum parts…..Don’t ask me how I know… 🙂
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