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The weather has been pretty awful here, so I spent the weekend in the shop and got a chance to work some rust spots off a couple of old rifles.
Mark, well done and very helpful. Weather is crap here, too. Maybe should see if I can find a fun inside job to do. Tim
Great video Mark. I did not know the pre 1982 copper penny application. Informative as always. Thanks for sharing.
RickC
Mark thanks for the “how to”….can’t talk now, gotta jump on Amazon and get my order in for brass wool before they sell out.
Mac
Mark, You always come up with teaching moments that are useful, simple, and to the point. Thanks!
On a lighter note, now I have another reason to save my pennies. T/R
May 3, 2020
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Mark great information, won’t be doing any removal on my Winchesters but every days a school day !
Thank you for sharing the knowledge !
BASC member
Thanks Guys. I don’t like messing with original finish on collector guns, but when there’s rust involved, it’s a necessary evil.
Big Mac said
I broke into the piggy-bank and found some tools that’ll work…
Looks like you scored some good solid copper pennies, Mac.
Hopefully, nobody will get into their old pennies and dig out some of the old war-time steel pennies. Surely, people have more cents than that.
My apologies for the corny pun.
Mark
Big Mac said
I broke into the piggy-bank and found some tools that’ll work…
Another easy method to determine if you have a solid copper penny (pre-1982) is to drop it from about 12-inches on to a counter top and listen… the copper pennies have a pleasing ring, while the newer copper plated zinc pennies have dull dead sound. I can sort through a mound of pennies very quickly without the need of a magnifying lens to read the mint mark date on them.
WACA Historian & Board of Director Member #6571L
November 7, 2015
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Very good, Mark. Patience is my biggest challenge on jobs like this. And Mac, Brownell’s has brass wool and Kroil.
Mike
Bert H. said
Another easy method to determine if you have a solid copper penny (pre-1982) is to drop it from about 12-inches on to a counter top and listen… the copper pennies have a pleasing ring, while the newer copper plated zinc pennies have dull dead sound. I can sort through a mound of pennies very quickly without the need of a magnifying lens to read the mint mark date on them.
Yeah but Bert I’m a retired Army tanker… since I’m in my upper 60’s I can’t see worth a damn and given my 20+ years in the Army I can’t hear out of one ear and deaf in the other.
So with sight and sound marginalized you got any recommendations for smell or taste (COVID not withstanding)?
Big Mac said
Yeah but Bert I’m a retired Army tanker… since I’m in my upper 60’s I can’t see worth a damn and given my 20+ years in the Army I can’t hear out of one ear and deaf in the other.
So with sight and sound marginalized you got any recommendations for smell or taste (COVID not withstanding)?
OK, you got me there… I did get a decent chortle out of it though
As a retired Navy Submariner, my hearing is still real good, but I cannot claim the same in regards to my olfactory skills.
WACA Historian & Board of Director Member #6571L
Brass key stock (also sold by Brownells), ground into whatever shape & size works best, can be used along with copper pennies; I use the 1/2″ width to make punches for sight removal or adjusting. Of course brass is harder than pure copper, but still much softer than steel.
Relatively soft rust that’s still red & granular isn’t so very hard to remove by abrasion, but the kind that’s so old it’s turned black, crusty, & very hard is something else–almost a different substance. When it occurs on a flat surface, esp. the flats of a brl, I’ve used a razor blade held at a very low angle, almost but not quite flat, & with oil of course, to scrape down the thickest patches of it. Can be done without scratching the surrounding surface (IF done carefully enough!) because the rust patches stand higher than the unrusted surface. No job, obviously, for the heavy-handed.
November 7, 2015
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I generally start out with a nylon toothbrush to get the loose stuff out of the way and to work the oil/solvent into the affected areas. That helps me get a better idea of what I’m up against. I’m also learning (finally) to simply walk away and let the oil and solvent work. Kroil is truly an awesome substance, I even like the way it smells.
Mike
TXGunNut said
I’m also learning (finally) to simply walk away and let the oil and solvent work.
Heat also helps–like the heat of a light bulb held close to the surface, in a goose-neck lamp or some other fixture.
November 7, 2015
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clarence said
TXGunNut said
I’m also learning (finally) to simply walk away and let the oil and solvent work.Heat also helps–like the heat of a light bulb held close to the surface, in a goose-neck lamp or some other fixture.
Thanks, didn’t know that. I happen to have a couple incandescent bulbs stashed away for just such an emergency.
Mike
TXGunNut said
I generally start out with a nylon toothbrush to get the loose stuff out of the way and to work the oil/solvent into the affected areas. That helps me get a better idea of what I’m up against. I’m also learning (finally) to simply walk away and let the oil and solvent work. Kroil is truly an awesome substance, I even like the way it smells.
Mike
Mike, I’m with you on the toothbrush. I was taught to soak a paper towel or rag then wrap the corroded area and let it sit for days or even weeks. Then use the oil and wool. One other thing is to not only wipe the particles off the metal surface but clean them out of the wool too. What we call volcanoes, areas where the rust has built up like a mountain range, can be cleaned in the same manner but instead of wool I use a sharp piece of oak and with a lot of patience pick away at the volcanoes. Once the area is flat there will be a spot but it looks better than a thick glob of rust.
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