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I know this has probably been asked before but is there any way to get a barrel that is very dark inside looking pretty decent.? I am assuming it will never be shiny again?
Steve
I would start with a solvent and a tight brush. Then shoot some copper jackets out of it and see what it looks like. Some of that “copper looking pot scrubbing stuff” works well too.
JB’s Bore Paste used to be one of the most common products for this purpose, but their are other similar mild abrasives.
Get you a bottle of mercury and that joker will be shiny shiny!
Maverick
WACA #8783 - Checkout my Reloading Tool Survey!
https://winchestercollector.org/forum/winchester-research-surveys/winchester-reloading-tool-survey/
Maverick said
Get you a bottle of mercury and that joker will be shiny shiny!Maverick
Very true, if lead is the culprit; for yrs I had a small bottle, but lost it during one of my too many moves. Now it’s one of the the many products, like carbon tet, like creosote, like white lead, & a hundred other things for which there’s no good substitute, our govt forbids us to buy.
November 7, 2015
Online
Look past the darkness, look for definition of the edges of the lands. The lands spin the bullets but shiny bores make a collector smile. I can live with a frosty or dark bore as long as it shoots. Iosso is another paste type cleaner that removes stubborn fouling.
Mike
Well it does shoot pretty accurate.. I suppose as long as the patches come out clean it should be fine.
Maverick said
Get you a bottle of mercury and that joker will be shiny shiny!Maverick
clarence said
Maverick said
Get you a bottle of mercury and that joker will be shiny shiny!
Maverick
Very true, if lead is the culprit; for yrs I had a small bottle, but lost it during one of my too many moves. Now it’s one of the the many products, like carbon tet, like creosote, like white lead, & a hundred other things for which there’s no good substitute, our govt forbids us to buy.
I was lucky enough to be given a “bottle” of Hg by an old time collector. He said, “cap the chamber end, pour it in and let it sit for a month” So far, i haven’t had to use it yet…..but i just got a model 85 that could be the first trial run.
I seriously doubt you’d need a month and I wouldn’t leave it in for nowhere near that long. With some lite stroking, it would probably get shined up rather quickly. I’m thinking minutes not even much past an hour or so. Plus you don’t want to leave it, as mercury is corrosive to metals other than mercury.
That is why having mercury free primers was a big innovation to the shooting industry. The old mercury primers were so corrosive. In fact most of the pitting found in firearms is from mercury primers and not always from mere rust.
Sincerely,
Maverick
WACA #8783 - Checkout my Reloading Tool Survey!
https://winchestercollector.org/forum/winchester-research-surveys/winchester-reloading-tool-survey/
Maverick said
That is why having mercury free primers was a big innovation to the shooting industry. The old mercury primers were so corrosive. In fact most of the pitting found in firearms is from mercury primers and not always from mere rust.
Not exactly–problem with mercuric primers is that they weakened the brass, & is the reason some WRA SMOKELESS cartridge boxes had that warning against reloading. This damage hadn’t occured with BP because the thick BP fouling protected the brass from amalgamation with the mercury. It was the potassium chlorate primers that replaced mercuric that caused such severe pitting, though that was partly because shooters didn’t realize at first that they needed to clean with water to remove the salts left after firing; oil-based cleaners wouldn’t do it.
slk said
Well it does shoot pretty accurate.. I suppose as long as the patches come out clean it should be fine.
Those that have a bore scope know that a clean patch does not mean a clean barrel. Hard carbon builds up and it very hard to get out. If you shoot jacketed bullets you end up with layers of hard carbon and copper. Remove one layer then the next. Powder and lead comes out easily with most of the current products but the hard carbon is another story. I use stiff nylon brushes and a solvent. JB bore paste or Iosso will eventually clean out the hard carbon. But what is the abrasive doing to the edges of the lands and grooves? The new stainless barrels are a lot harder than our old barrels so I would use a paste as a final tough. Pits are another issue. Only soaking can get into them.
https://teslong.com/collections/borescopes/products/new-rifle-borescope-with-4-5-inch-ips-hd-screen
These can take videos and pictures along with the live view. Once you have one you will find a lot a places to look other than a barrel. But be forewarned, you may see a lot more than you wish.
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