I have been wanting to shoot my Henry but after over 20 years of ownership I just realized the bolt is missing the part that holds the firing pins????
I need to buy this part or take apart my 66 so I can have the part copied and made. What are your thoughts? I believe that the receiver has to be completely stripped to get the bolt out. Hammer, trigger, the whole works.
You do have to remove the guts from either rifle to remove the breech bolt. Remembering that the side plates DO NOT come off the guns in the same manner. Henry side plates are dovetailed on both front and rear, which means you slide them up or down to remove them. The plates on a ’66 are only dovetailed on the front edge. One mis-lick with a screw driver and you’ve washed $1000 down the sink. Just curious and I know it’s not exactly the same, but why not shoot the ’66 instead? You could pretend you shot the Henry. Well, maybe not.
Thanks for the responses. I know about the side plates and would use a plastic hammer to slide them off. I probably will shoot the 66 first. But I am intent on shooting the Henry. The 66 will come apart if I have to get detailed specs on the piece I’m missing on the Henry.
Does anyone have a picture of the piece I am missing? Also is there any tricks needed to remove things like the hammer spring? I have never removed the lower tang, trigger assembly or the hammer before. Most everything else I have removed on the 4 models built like this for cleaning. Except I don’t mess with the forend and magazine tubes. Way too easy to scratch things up.
I have a good set of screw drivers and will take great caution not to ruin anything. I will not force anything either. I fear having to stop because something just doesn’t want to come apart.
Chuck said
I have been wanting to shoot my Henry but after over 20 years of ownership I just realized the bolt is missing the part that holds the firing pins????
Chuck, are you talking about the striker? The striker is circular ring with threads on the inside to thread onto the firing pin. It has two prongs to fire the cartridge. Winchester Bob sells the striker and firing pins, $40 each.
Don’t forget to remove the pin I previously talked about, you cannot turn or remove the firing pin with the pin in the bolt. The hole in the receiver is for that reason! This is the trick! T/R
TR said
Chuck said
I have been wanting to shoot my Henry but after over 20 years of ownership I just realized the bolt is missing the part that holds the firing pins????
Chuck, are you talking about the striker? The striker is circular ring with threads on the inside to thread onto the firing pin. It has two prongs to fire the cartridge. Winchester Bob sells the striker and firing pins, $40 each.
Don’t forget to remove the pin I previously talked about, you cannot turn or remove the firing pin with the pin in the bolt. The hole in the receiver is for that reason! This is the trick! T/R
Thank you TR. I will contact Winchester Bob. I have an offer to machine one but this may work out better. Any thoughts on how to age it? Here is a picture showing both bolt faces. You can see the missing striker. Do you think there is a pin issue too? I have not tried to push it forward.
Chuck, the end of the firing pin is threaded, so if your threads are good use your old firing pin. The striker needs some fitting so a cold blue color will age it nicely. If you have to replace the firing pin aging with some form of browning solution is in order.
I would not take the 66 apart, it looks undisturbed.
Remember the shell extractor prevents the firing pin from turning or removal so removing the small pin holding the extractor is required. T/R
Tom, I sent the picture to Winchester Bob. He has the parts and believes that I might need the firing pin too because of how short it is on the end? I will take it apart before I order the parts. Maybe someone snapped the end off because they did not remove the pin?
I went through the repo catalogs I have. Most of the early ones have the procedure to pull this apart. The instructions are on the same page that tells you how to adjust the set screws for the finger lever spring and the carrier lever block spring.
They call the extractor a spring catch and the striker a snapper. The entire bolt assembly is called a breach pin and the firing pin is called a piston. The procedure says you can remove the toggles then slide the breech pin back to expose the spring catch pin to a point that it will align with a hole in the frame. Once removed you can un thread the piston from the breech. With the hammer at full cock you can then remove the assembly. At this point I can see the end of the piston and see if there are still some threads. If I have to remove the piston they I will have to remove a lot more.
I am still concerned with the hammer spring when trying to re install the screw. Took a 95 partially apart once and what a pain trying to depress the spring while trying to align the screw. I didn’t have the hammer out and didn’t want to take it apart further.
I cleaned the barrel of the 66 yesterday. The bore is much tighter than the Henry. The Henry must have been shot a lot.
Not to scare You but; I had a buddy ,about 30 years ago, bought himself an really nice engraved Henry, at the time I think He paid in the neighborhood of $50000.00 for it. He had dreamed of shooting his Henry for quite some time. He’d gathered up some loose rounds and finally took it out to the range, fired half a dozen or so rounds through it and was delighted with his gun ’till He got it home and discovered He had fired a huge bulge in the barrel, about a foot back of the muzzle He figured the gun had fouled enough with the old ammo to restrict the bullet enough to bulge the barrel. He was sick over that one for a spell. Any way a short version of a long story , He sold the gun for way less than half what He paid for it, not a happy shooter.
W.A.C.A. life member, Marlin Collectors Assn. charter and life member, C,S.S.A. member and general gun nut.
Henry Mero said
Not to scare You but; I had a buddy ,about 30 years ago, bought himself an really nice engraved Henry, at the time I think He paid in the neighborhood of $50000.00 for it. He had dreamed of shooting his Henry for quite some time. He’d gathered up some loose rounds and finally took it out to the range, fired half a dozen or so rounds through it and was delighted with his gun ’till He got it home and discovered He had fired a huge bulge in the barrel, about a foot back of the muzzle He figured the gun had fouled enough with the old ammo to restrict the bullet enough to bulge the barrel. He was sick over that one for a spell. Any way a short version of a long story , He sold the gun for way less than half what He paid for it, not a happy shooter.
Thanks for the heads up. I have cleaned and slugged this barrel a few times in the last week. Believe me this barrel is too loose. Only tight spot is about the last 6″ near the muzzle. It would be nice if I could hit a target but no promises with this gun. The 66 has a lot better chance.
Just got an email that the priming compound has shipped.
According to Winchester Bob the bolt (firing pin) and striker were never blued? Both my Henry and 66 have some blue on the end of the firing pin near the hammer. What do you guys think? Maybe I’ll have to learn to cold blue? I am not trying to fool anyone. I just want to shoot this gun. If I ever find a parts gun I will use some original parts. If not my wife will sell it with the old parts too.
Latest update. I mixed up some of the primer compound and stuffed some of it in one of the Henry cases. Couldn’t get it to go off. My 66 barely makes a dent in the old brass. Mixed up some more and placed it on the anvil of my vise and hit it with a hammer. Took several hits but it went off with quite a bang. I think I had too much in the pile. Should have spread it thinner. One other thing I learned about this mixture is that it doesn’t take much alcohol to make it quite runny and then set up rather quickly. Instructions say the alcohol will react with the mixture to set it up.
Haven’t received the parts from Winchester Bob yet. Did find a company that can make cases. I have yet to call them. Need to play with the 66 to see if I can stiffen the spring.
Chuck said
Latest update. I mixed up some of the primer compound and stuffed some of it in one of the Henry cases. Couldn’t get it to go off. My 66 barely makes a dent in the old brass. Mixed up some more and placed it on the anvil of my vise and hit it with a hammer. Took several hits but it went off with quite a bang. I think I had too much in the pile. Should have spread it thinner. One other thing I learned about this mixture is that it doesn’t take much alcohol to make it quite runny and then set up rather quickly. Instructions say the alcohol will react with the mixture to set it up.Haven’t received the parts from Winchester Bob yet. Did find a company that can make cases. I have yet to call them. Need to play with the 66 to see if I can stiffen the spring.
Who did you find?
Sincerely,
Maverick
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National Die Company. Online they do not specify which they may make. Like I said I need to call them.
Chuck,
Let me know what they Quote you! I’m pondering a guess that it will be high.
Sincerely,
Maverick
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Maverick, I called them. They can probably make them but the cost to make the dies will be a few thousand dollars depending upon how many steps are needed to form the brass. They also won’t make less than 25,000 rounds.
I am still going to send them a diagram of the case so I can get a better estimate of the cost and I might learn more in the process. Now that I know what kind of business will do this I will search harder for a smaller one in the LA area. That’s one benefit of living near LA. Anything is close at hand you just have to find it.
On another note I did receive 2 of the 3 parts from Winchester Bob. I could put the gun back together but I really don’t want to tear it apart more times than necessary. I still disagree with Bob. These parts were blued when new. There is most of the blue still on the extractor and the breech pin base. The piston, firing pin, has blue scattered about.
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