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Hello I’m planning on selling a few of Winchesters from my late father’s collection.
Would anyone be interested in have a discussion with me about potential problems etc I might encounter
Examples
Payment issues
Representing the guns conditions correctly
Shipping
Etc
Thanks in advance
Start out your next post with a brief description of each gun.
Bert
WACA Historian & Board of Director Member #6571L
Not looking to post all of them online
Here is one
Win 1886, 50 Express, made in 1897, very good wood, 28 in barrel, maybe 80%
We cannot help you with the “Representing the guns conditions correctly” question unless you provide clear detailed pictures of each gun (which will also be needed to sell them online or to someone who is not standing in front of you).
Do you have Factory letters for each gun? If you do, include a photo of it as well.
Shipping the guns to the buyer is a difficult topic for numerous reasons; Is the gun “Antique” or “Modern” (you mentioned one of each). Modern guns can only be shipped across state lines to a licensed dealer or licensed collector, and must be shipped to the address on the license. What state do you reside in (you must first follow your state’s laws or regulation). What state is the buyer located in (his/her state laws must also be followed). Does the buyer have a FFL (type 1 or 3)? Actual shipping should be done using the USPS, in a locked hard case inside a cardboard box, and insured for the sale value.
Payment is simple. Require cash for a direct “in person” sale, or a certified bank check or money order for all other sales. If you decide to accept a personal check, only do so with the stipulation that the check must clear your bank before shipping the gun.
If you do not want to deal with hassle of packaging and shipping, consider consigning them to an auction service or a trusted dealer.
Bert
WACA Historian & Board of Director Member #6571L
As to representing the guns correctly is where posting several good pictures of each gun so the experts on this site can tell you what you got and what to expect to get. The guns value can vary greatly by it condition or if its been altered in any way. You want to point out any flaws or show pictures of the flaws so you don’t come off as trying to hide something from the buyer.
Bob
WACA Life Member--- NRA Life Member---- Cody Firearms member since 1991 Researching the Winchester 1873's
Email: [email protected]
Thanks for the quick responses and info so far.
When you say locked hard case… do you have an example?
Sorry if dumb question
Thanks
Also. Is there any potential problems with posting serial numbers online?
Thanks
It would be beneficial in trying to determine the manufacture date of Your gun’s if You provide complete serial # to the fellows on this site. I can’t think of any risk in doing so. We do it all the time in order to properly identify a gun. Good luck
W.A.C.A. life member, Marlin Collectors Assn. charter and life member, C,S.S.A. member and general gun nut.
Online
You need to do what Bert and Bob say. Photos and serial numbers are a must. No matter where you post these for sale they will require that info. Factory records from the Cody Museum will help because they will say how the gun was originally built and when. The most important is how it was built.
Swampyak said
When you say locked hard case… do you have an example?
Never trust the locks on cheap cases–wrap completely around the case in 3 or 4 places with duct tape.
I was thinking you ment paddle lock, but plastic sliding or buckle is ok? Is it a good idea to tape it also before the cardboard
One more question
Would I post the pics of the guns in general or Winchester rifles?
Thanks
Post them here. You need to know that as a guest you can not post directly to this forum. You need to send them to a member that will post for you or use something like photobucket. What ever that is?? Hopefully someone will explain it to you.
I’ve sold quite a few old Winchesters online over the past 10 years or so. Here are some points …
- Take a series of photos showing every aspect of the rifle. I usually have one of the buttstock, another of the receiver area, another of the foreshock, and another of the side of the barrel. Then I do the same thing for the other side of the rifle. I also include photos of the muzzle, and the address stamp on the barrel as well as the caliber stamp. The lighting should be good, the photos properly exposed, and the focus sharp. If you have an honest rifle, good photos help the rifle sell and for a better price. If people are a little unsure of the condition due to poor photos, they will not want to pay as much. The bottom line is that the photos should be good enough such that the person on the other end has no surprises when they open the box. They know ahead of time exactly what they are getting.
- I receive payment first, then I ship the rifle.
- If it is a valuable rifle, say over $2,000, then I like to ship it in a hardcore.
The above are general principles. As for the legality of shipping, others have already mentioned that. I buy and sell in Canada where we can ship directly to each other without having to go through someone with a FAA, so things are a bit simpler.
What I have done is when shipping a nice gun ($10,000) is I buy a hardcase with the cardboard box it comes in or tell the shipper to buy one for me. Then pad up the gun so it can’t slide in the hardcase if it dropped . I put a address in with the gun, on the hardcase and on the box. You take the cardboard box apart and I turn it inside out so no printing identifies it as a gun case. The next I do is if I’m receiving or shipping a high dollar gun is I have it shipped on Monday Next Day Air or 2nd day. I don’t ship at the end of the week where a package could sit over the weekend.
I have received guns that were shipped USPS registered and they can take 2 weeks to get them since they have to signed for at every stop and locked up when not in transit.
If your using cardboard only you want it double boxed.
Bob
WACA Life Member--- NRA Life Member---- Cody Firearms member since 1991 Researching the Winchester 1873's
Email: [email protected]
Lots of great advise already
I took some pics but I see I need to take more.
Any suggestions on lighting for good pics.
I tried outside, in the sun seemed like there was glare so i took them in the shade
It seemed brighter than inside
Swampyak said
I was thinking you ment paddle lock, but plastic sliding or buckle is ok? Is it a good idea to tape it also before the cardboard
Didn’t mean the cardboard box, which may get ripped off anyway.
Swampyak said
Any suggestions on lighting for good pics.
A problem I’ve been unable to solve after 20 yrs of trying! Yet I see many others making sharp, clear, photos using only a cell phone!
If you go outside, it has to be in the shade or on a day too cloudy to throw shadows.
Swampyak said
Thanks for the quick responses and info so far.When you say locked hard case… do you have an example?
Sorry if dumb question
Thanks
Visit you local gun shop, or buy them online… https://www.ebay.com/b/Rifle-Hard-Cases/73938/bn_1868440
WACA Historian & Board of Director Member #6571L
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