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I have rust on some rifles that id like to remove. Iv’e already asked this question on other forums but people pretty much recommended getting the Big 45 rust remover, which I ordered.
I was wondering if anyone has better methods, apart from stripping and rust bluing the entire thing again, which I can’t do. The only blue I have is Cold blue and it has trouble sticking.
I thought I had a genius idea at the hardware store today, I saw synthetic steel wool and thought it would be great. Its not that good, it still scratches the blue.
While I was at the store, I looked around because people were saying that renaissance wax is the best thing to ever exist, so before ordering some, I wanted to see if there was anything similar. Here’s what I found, could it be good?
I use Nevr Dull to remove light rust. It does not scratch the blue. For preservation Old West Snake Oil.
Steff
Kev18 said
I have rust on some rifles that id like to remove.
“Rust” is too general a term–there’s fresh, soft, red rust that can be wiped off with a piece of burlap or other coarse cloth, and there’s old, black, rust that’s almost as hard as the steel itself. Many advocate soaking in Auto Trans fluid for a week or two, which is supposed to loosen the deposits enough to be removed with a minimum of damage to the finish. It can do no harm, so is worth trying, but I’m skeptical of its effectiveness on old hardened rust.
Iv’e heard taht soaking it in coka cola would convert the rust back to black. It has some type of acid in it…
Kev18 said
Iv’e heard taht soaking it in coka cola would convert the rust back to black. It has some type of acid in it…
I would test this on something else first. I’ve heard of people using coke to patina parts.
Kev18 said
Iv’e heard taht soaking it in coka cola would convert the rust back to black. It has some type of acid in it…
Yes, that’s the theory–carbon dioxide dissolved in water is mildly acidic (carbonic acid). But converting “the rust back to black” hasn’t restored the metal, merely changed the color of the corrosion. The active ingredient in Naval Jelly is phosphoric acid, which will loosen rust scale, but of course the blue goes with it.
Here’s a relatively new product that’s not as aggressive as phosphoric acid, but it, too, I’m sure, removes the blue along with the rust: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Evapo-Rust-The-Original-Super-Safe-Rust-Remover-Water-Based-Non-Toxic-Biodegradable-1-Gallon/48810395?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222227000000000&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=42423897272&wl4=pla-51320962143&wl5=9005000&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=48810395&veh=sem&gclid=CjwKCAjwssD0BRBIEiwA-JP5rL5kb9lJCV_ud5n2hvM7oJ-TgM3gjvsYZ1BobDKjG6rDVU2mVtl8HRoCd0QQAvD_BwE
clarence said
Yes, that’s the theory–carbon dioxide dissolved in water is mildly acidic (carbonic acid). But converting “the rust back to black” hasn’t restored the metal, merely changed the color of the corrosion. The active ingredient in Naval Jelly is phosphoric acid, which will loosen rust scale, but of course the blue goes with it.
Here’s a relatively new product that’s not as aggressive as phosphoric acid, but it, too, I’m sure, removes the blue along with the rust: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Evapo-Rust-The-Original-Super-Safe-Rust-Remover-Water-Based-Non-Toxic-Biodegradable-1-Gallon/48810395?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222227000000000&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=42423897272&wl4=pla-51320962143&wl5=9005000&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=48810395&veh=sem&gclid=CjwKCAjwssD0BRBIEiwA-JP5rL5kb9lJCV_ud5n2hvM7oJ-TgM3gjvsYZ1BobDKjG6rDVU2mVtl8HRoCd0QQAvD_BwE
Evap-O-Rust has been around for a long time. I’ve used it to do exactly that: remove blue. It’s fantastic stuff for restoring old tools, etc. About 10 years ago I built a sporter Mauser from found parts and a couple of hours in Evap-O-Rust (I used a capped PVC pipe to reduce the volume requirement) had the old barrel down to the white in no time.
Fantastic stuff, but not for removal of rust without taking the blue with it. Plus you can keep reusing it over and over and it’s relatively safe to use without any crazy precautions. They sell a 3- or so gallon bucket with a basket and lid which is handy for small parts (I use it mostly to restore old woodworking planes and the like).
Steve
WACA Member. CFM Member. NRA Lifer.
I already sued evapo rust, I have a container full. Works nice but removes blue Like everything else.
I was wondering if any members have ever used Winchester “Rust Remover”. I have a couple of tubes of the stuff, but have never tried it out on anything.
I’ve always wondered how well it worked and if it removed factory bluing? Or if it just merely removed light surface rust?
Anyone have experience with it? I know they stopped making the stuff around the 1920s.
Sincerely,
Maverick
WACA #8783 - Checkout my Reloading Tool Survey!
https://winchestercollector.org/forum/winchester-research-surveys/winchester-reloading-tool-survey/
Maverick said
I was wondering if any members have ever used Winchester “Rust Remover”.
Stoeger’s sold a similar product that I used to use–just a very fine abrasive in a grease base. Any abrasive paste, even toothpaste, will wear the blue away if rubbed long & hard enough; if it didn’t, how could it have any effect on the rust? However, since the rust lies above the surrounding surface, the idea is that it will wear down before the blue is seriously harmed. But steel or bronze wool & oil is a safer method, I think.
There are a lot of good answers here. One thing I can say is NEVER and I mean NEVER use steel wool of any type. If you want to remover surface rust, use brass or copper steel wool. IT WILL NOT HARM THE FINISH on a blued or cased gun. I use it with a little gun oil. Works great!
win4575 said
There are a lot of good answers here. One thing I can say is NEVER and I mean NEVER use steel wool of any type. If you want to remover surface rust, use brass or copper steel wool. IT WILL NOT HARM THE FINISH on a blued or cased gun. I use it with a little gun oil. Works great!
That method always scared me until I saw my local gun shop doing it. They use aluminum wool with a lot of oil and very little pressure. I tried it and was happy with the removal of some surface rust. No visible scratching.
Il order brass wool if I can find any with fast shipping. On amazon probably.
win4575 said
If you want to remover surface rust, use brass or copper steel wool.
I’m sure this is what you meant, but to clarify, use brass or copper wool (100%). There is such a thing as copper steel wool that is simply a steel scouring pad that is copper plated. If you mistake one of these for real copper wool you might find yourself regretting your decision.
Steve
WACA Member. CFM Member. NRA Lifer.
I jsut ordered some on amazon but even if its prime it will take awhile. They are behind on shipping.
Supergimp is right. The wool I’m referring to is real copper or brass. It comes in several different grits, fine to course, just like steel wool.
WACA #8783 - Checkout my Reloading Tool Survey!
https://winchestercollector.org/forum/winchester-research-surveys/winchester-reloading-tool-survey/
I saw that video. he’s good at what he does. There is a few good gunsmith channels. Diresta does a bit of everything.
What about mustard or vinegar even? I thought about it before. People, including me used it to blacken knives. Its very acidic.
Maverick said
I found this interesting YouTube video of a guy “restoring” a Model 1873 in 22 caliber. I don’t agree with everything he is doing in this video. But thought it was an interesting video anyway.Sincerely,
Maverick
I agree. I didn’t like his metallic cleaning tools especially the whirling wire. I did notice that he mixed sawdust with his epoxy. I mix it with regular wood glue but not on such a big crack. He should have used this method more around the receiver and the butt plate.
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