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I recently bought a Winchester 94 with what I believe is a Lyman 21 rear sight. the sight has two holes that have been drilled and tapped on the side.
Does anyone have an idea why someone would drill and tap these two holes? I appreciate any help on this.
Also, are there instructions available on these sights? The “elevator” is hard to move, so I tried to loosed the locking lever screw. It was very difficult to turn. I didn’t want to break it so I stopped. There are two tiny lock screws on the locking lever, do they need to be loosen in order to remove the lever screw? If I could buy the instructions on this sight it would be very helpful.
Richard
I just discovered this post and am surprised no one commented. The tiny set screws are to adjust the locking lever to position for final stop or lock, for the height adjustment. When the lever is pushed up it releases the tension on the sight’s slide to allow for height change. Push the lever down and it locks the sight at that point. The limited rotation of the locking lever makes a fine adjustment necessary, which is where the little set screws come in to use. There is a stud screwed into the receiver, then a small adjusting nut goes over that and it is notched to accept the small screws in the locking lever. I hope this makes some sense and helps. I have never found any instructions for these sights. I have no idea why the holes were drilled in the sight. RDB
Thank you for your response. I want to remove the screw that holds the locking lever. Do I have to remove the two tiny set screws first? There is a slotted ring on the outside of the screw/stud. What does this do? I tried turning the screw/stud but it turned so hard I was afraid I would break it.
Thanks, Richard
The locking system consists of three pieces. The stud that screws into the receiver, the locking lever and the locking ring that fits inside the lever and screws onto the stud. Raise the lever up to release the pressure on the sight. You will find it necessary to back out the two tiny set screws to accomplish your goal. Be very careful when doing this. The screw slots are weak and could be brittle. Make sure the screw driver fits the tiny slots properly. ‘Jewelers’ screw drivers work best. Once this is done the inner locking ring can be turned out of the locking lever leaving the stud in the receiver. If you look closely you will see notches in the locking ring. My camera use lacks expertise and won’t focus in any closer. (the pictures can be enlarged and will help viewing). The bottom picture shows the sequence of installation. The stud screws in the receiver using a screw driver, slip the locking lever over the stud and then screw the adjusting nut on the stud, inside the locking lever. Then use slots in the adjusting nut to tighten it down. Once you get it snug you will have to adjust the locking lever using the tiny set screws for final position. Good luck and don’t try to hurry! Hope this helps. RDB
Richard Pike said
The “elevator” is hard to move, so I tried to loosed the locking lever screw. It was very difficult to turn. I didn’t want to break it so I stopped.
Never had one of these apart, but I think this screw was meant to be turned in hard as far as it would go. Roger, does it have a shoulder that bears against the rcvr, to stop it from being turned in too far? If you back it off, I think there would be nothing to keep it from loosening up too much. I just tried moving the elevator of the only one I have, & it’s also pretty stiff. Rather than tamper with that screw, I’d soak the whole assembly in Kroil & just work it back & forth to see if that limbered it up.
Those two “extra” holes make no sense at all.
That’s correct Clarence. The stud, as I call it, actually has two different threads. The thread that screws into the receiver then a shoulder and then the threads change to facilitate the locking nut. When the stud is screwed into the receiver, using the screw driver slot at the top, it should be tightened to keep it from backing out. An observation concerning the ‘sliding up and down’ of the sight to free it up. Be cautious, the unnecessary movement will wear the bluing and leave marks.
I ground an old screwdriver tip to fit the adjusting ring nut. You will find notches in the outside of this little nut that the tiny screws in the locking lever fit into for final locking. This made disassembly and reassembly a lot easier. Thanks, RDB
Roger, thank you for your help. Now it makes sense. I am glad I didn’t try to force the screw stud. I have some snap ring pliers that may help with the locking collar. I also have a set of gunsmith screw drivers and jewelers screwdrivers to help with the remaining screws. You have been a great help.
Thanks, Richard
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