A Model 1894 I’ve been discussing (serial has been provided to Bert’s surveys previously) has a pretty noticeable rust spot near the end of the barrel. If you owned this, would you try to do anything about this spot to make it look better? Some facts about the firearm:
– 32 Win Spl, made in Oct. 1945 (serial 134xxxx)
– Original finish on metal and stock
– Pretty consistent bluing loss and patina
– One ugly rust spot in picture
I don’t think there is one “right answer” to this (maybe there is) – would you try to do anything to the round rust spot if this were yours?
Factors:
– Is there any collector value to something of this vintage?
– (If yes) – would minor re-bluing affect collector value?
– (If no) – what would you try in terms of making this rust spot look better?
Ron P said
A Model 1894 I’ve been discussing (serial has been provided to Bert’s surveys previously) has a pretty noticeable rust spot near the end of the barrel. If you owned this, would you try to do anything about this spot to make it look better? Some facts about the firearm:– 32 Win Spl, made in Oct. 1945 (serial 134xxxx)
– Original finish on metal and stock
– Pretty consistent bluing loss and patina
– One ugly rust spot in picture
I don’t think there is one “right answer” to this (maybe there is) – would you try to do anything to the round rust spot if this were yours?
Factors:
– Is there any collector value to something of this vintage?
– (If yes) – would minor re-bluing affect collector value?
– (If no) – what would you try in terms of making this rust spot look better?
I think it’s almost always best to leave the finish as you find it. If you want something nicer, sell this one and buy one like you want. There is no shortage of 94s
Ron P said
– Is there any collector value to something of this vintage?– (If yes) – would minor re-bluing affect collector value?
– (If no) – what would you try in terms of making this rust spot look better?
Ron,
Yes there is collector value to your gun if it has not been drilled, tapped, or modified from original. Value depends on originality and condition, a miner flaw as pictured is part of an old gun and is best left alone. As I age as a collector I appreciate guns that have not been helped, survivors. I have done things to old guns years ago that I regretted later. As your eye becomes keener to whats original many of these old repairs become more obvious.
That said cold blue on a scratch is reversible but sanding is not. T/R
TR said I have done things to old guns years ago that I regretted later.
Like the original cond. WW II Mauser I had in when I was 16 or 17. Succumbing to gun-mag ads, I gave it a Tru-Oil treatment, along with light sanding. But I learned from that mistake, whereas plenty of grown men never learn; they keep the shade-tree gunsmiths in business.
The ’94 in question has now reached the “shooter” stage of its existence. It could serve an honorable purpose in the saddle-scabbard of some Rocky Mt. guide.
November 7, 2015
I’d gently remove the rust with OOOO steel wool and CLP. In my opinion nothing more needs to be done but that would possibly depend on the rest of the gun. I hope I look that good when I’m 80!
Mike
bobr94 said
I am surprised to see that the gun represented as 134XXXX is not a flatband version although it IS possible. I have not NOTICED any guns in this range without a flat front band.B
This one was manufactured in Oct 1945 (serial 1344908) and I saw on another forum that the flat band dates are 1946-1948, so perhaps this one is original. But perhaps the experts can confirm.
bobr94 said
I am surprised to see that the gun represented as 134XXXX is not a flatband version although it IS possible. I have not NOTICED any guns in this range without a flat front band.B
Bob,
If you check my survey, you will see that the Flat-band production begins in the 1373xxx serial range. S/N 1373613 was serialized July 10th, 1946 and is very near the first Flat-band documented.
Bert
WACA Historian & Board of Director Member #6571L
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