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I’m not sure if I’m doing this right, traded into a Winchester 1892, made in 1895? If I’m reading the serial numbers correctly and have the right web site for data. Found some 32-20 at a local shop, shot it today and it was minute of pie plate at 10-12 yards, I’m guessing that means the barrel is shot out? Any chance of getting some hand loads that go slower and maybe that would grab the rifling better and be more accurate?
What is the serial number on your Model 1892?
WACA Historian & Board of Director Member #6571L
Andre Sagnimeni said
I’m not sure if I’m doing this right, traded into a Winchester 1892, made in 1895? If I’m reading the serial numbers correctly and have the right web site for data. Found some 32-20 at a local shop, shot it today and it was minute of pie plate at 10-12 yards, I’m guessing that means the barrel is shot out? Any chance of getting some hand loads that go slower and maybe that would grab the rifling better and be more accurate?
It can also depend on what sights it has currently and the position of them L-R.
Rick C
Serial number is 104xxx, sights are stable, on the lowest notch, the wide leaf rear blade with the deep notch that the front post lines up in. No recoil to this thing so I wasn’t flinching. I can see rifling down the barrel, but maybe it’s leaded?
Andre Sagnimeni said I can see rifling down the barrel, but maybe it’s leaded?
Could be, in which case you’ve got a hard row to hoe; none of the so-called lead removers I’ve used work much better than a stiff wire brush alone. Lead is close to being chemically inert. Liquid mercury would make short work of it, but where can you obtain it?
You were lucky to find the ammo. If it has lead bullets, you might get better results with jacketed bullets, but that’s another thing hard to find unless you hand-load them.
Your rifle was made in 1899.
Clean your barrel then have it slugged. This way you will know what diameter bullets you need. Many cleaners claim they will remove lead. Just use a brass brush to help it along.
Does your barrel still have rifling left? If so it should shoot. Pits aren’t desirable but usually they don’t effect the accuracy.
Yeah, ammo I found was old Remington Kleen-bore, 33 of a box of 50 of lead bullets, shot 15, tubular mag capacity is 13, I can see rifling.
From here winchesterguns
it shows 1892 sn#104xxx would have been made in 1895
The info I gave you is from the Winchester Factory records that are held in the Cody Firearms Museum. All other sources are usually not correct. If you wish you can contact them and get a Factory Letter that will state how and when the gun was manufactured, for a cost.
November 7, 2015
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If rifling is good and bore is clean it could be a matter of undersized or hard bullets. The Remington factory bullets were probably neither but a partial box is always suspect, could be someone’s hand loads. Sometimes jacketed bullets shoot better in a worn bore because they are pushed a bit harder and the soft lead core causes the copper jacket to expand and engage the rifling. I’m thinking if you clean this old girl up and give her some ammo she likes you’ll find she shoots a lot better.
Mike
TXGunNut said
If rifling is good and bore is clean it could be a matter of undersized or hard bullets. The Remington factory bullets were probably neither but a partial box is always suspect, could be someone’s hand loads. Sometimes jacketed bullets shoot better in a worn bore because they are pushed a bit harder and the soft lead core causes the copper jacket to expand and engage the rifling. I’m thinking if you clean this old girl up and give her some ammo she likes you’ll find she shoots a lot better.
Mike
I really hope so, it would be a shame for it to be a wall hanger. I’ve got a buddy searching for some ammo today.
I am fairly confident that your rifle can be made to shoot accurately, at least 2″, five-shot groups at 50 yards, but as others have suggested, you may need to do the following:
- Clean your bore, especially of all leading. I’ve used a ball of steel wool, scrubbing the bore after it is lubed with oil. The worst leading is often just forward of the chamber, so keep checking this area until it is nice and clean.
- lube the bore very lightly with an oily swatch of cloth, and then pound a soft leads weight through it using wooden dowlings, and one of those hard plastic hammers. Then measure the diameter of the slug to obtain the groove diameter. That will tell you the minimum diameter of cast bullets to use.
- Avoid hardcast bullets … they can easily lead your bore if they are coming through at original 32-20/32 W.C.F. velocities.
- Worst case scenario, use gas checked cast bullets sized to the bore diameter
November 7, 2015
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Andre-
The 32WCF is one of many very good reasons to reload. My reloads consist of a bullet cast from scrap lead, a few grains of pistol powder and a small pistol primer. Cost of those components is in line with good 22 Rimfire target ammo. Yes, brass is expensive and reloading equipment can get very expensive but a with minimalist loading setup and a bit of luck finding brass you can duplicate rounds that will cost $1-2 apiece…if you can find them.
Mike
To clear a leaded barrel, I squirt a little Kroil down the bore and let it sit for a while to penetrate. Then I take a jag and put enough patches on it so that it is so snug I have to smack the back of the cleaning rod with my palm to get to go down the bore. It will go slowly but smoothly until it hits the lead, and you will feel the difference. Shoeshine it there for a while, and then push it out the breech and the lead flakes will come out with the patch.
Repeat as necessary.
I have a ’94 in 38-55 that leaded up pretty bad, even with the slug-verified proper sized bullets. Turns out, changing powders fixed the issue and it not longer leads up.
So yeah – what others have said. You have a leaded bore, oversized bore, or a combination of both.
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