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Got a line on a 1960 Featherweight ’06 for what I think is a good price, but it has a few things that I’m not certain about. I’m almost positive that it’s been reblued as the proof marks are partially filled and the barrel is just way too bright blue for an old Winchester and the “Winchester” in the barrel is gold filled. The stock has been refinished very well, looking almost like new. although not like the original Winchester finish. Fortunately, no one stuck a recoil pad on it!
The bolt has a chrome-like finish like a late Model 69-was that original for this vintage model 70?
I am ok with the stock, but that bright blue barrel would probably bug me. Is there anything that can be done short of another reblue to make the barrel look closer to the original finish? How about the proof marks? I saw a video of Art’s Gun shop where he said they restamp the lettering to make it look closer to original. If I were to send the barreled action off for a reblue, about how much would that cost? I really doubt that would be a valid option, because in the end, it’s still just a reblued gun and probably wouldn’t be worth it the effort. Is it possible to get the gold inlay out without damaging the current bluing?
Of course, I’d be buying this as a shooter and not any sort of collector piece.
About what value would you put on a rifle in this condition?
Thanks so much for the help!
Is the gold in the lettering real gold, or just gold colored paint? If it is paint, it can easily be removed with pure acetone (but keep it off of the wood). It would help if you can post a link to pictures of the rife.
Bert
WACA Historian & Board of Director Member #6571L
Really depends upon what a good price is.
Sounds like it’s a totally refinished gun (and not a good job at that). Having to re- stamp the lettering, reblue and just being ok with the stock is not too encouraging. A gun is only original once.
More than a couple $’s involved in your rehab and it’s essentially just putting lipstick on a pig. You’re correct it probably wouldn’t be worth it,
I’d pass and look for a better gun
Unless you can get it for a give-away price, forget it. Such a botch-job as this will haunt you until you get rid of it, probably at a loss.
Hello,
I’m not going to question any of the advice given here, but I will add what I think. You said you are buying the rifle as a shooter, but if it’s a range shooter, many guys take rifles there to show them off as well as shoot them. You probably would not be satisfied with the rifle if that’s the case, as you have alluded to the downside about the blueing shade. That said it sounds to me that the rifle would make an excellent hunting rifle. Featherweight for hunting is probably why the rifle was designed in the 1st place. If you ask a collector what they would do with a firearm that is not collectable, their response is predictable. Ultimately you will need to decide what you want, and I would also add that price should not be a concern. Don’t buy it because it’s cheap. Make sure it fits the bill of what you want, as the 1st priority. Looking at your post count, it’s similar to mine. I’m here because I feel the Pre 64 Winchester Model 70 is one of the best hunting rifles ever made. I may collect and keep one because of that fact, but I would not make a collectable rifle, a hunting rifle, or a range rifle, but then again to each his own.
Thanks for all the replies. Sorry I can’t get pics at the moment. Clarence, what is considered a giveaway price? I just did a Gunbroker search and the least expensive pre-64 featherweight ’06 was an unbarrelled action that sold for $659 which is less than what I would have in this one. All the complete rifles sold for much more. I don’t want it to show off to anyone, just a solid walnut and steel -type hunting rifle. I’d be afraid to hunt with a top condition rifle for the money they bring. Thanks again!
[email protected] said
Clarence, what is considered a giveaway price? I just did a Gunbroker search and the least expensive pre-64 featherweight ’06 was an unbarrelled action that sold for $659 which is less than what I would have in this one. All the complete rifles sold for much more. I don’t want it to show off to anyone, just a solid walnut and steel -type hunting rifle. I’d be afraid to hunt with a top condition rifle for the money they bring. Thanks again!
If you can buy it for less than $659, & can live with it as is without putting more into it, I guess that’s a good enough deal. It’s possible that bright blue can be made less garish by rubbing it down with a very mild abrasive (maybe Clover #6 paste), but that would be a strictly trial & error experiment with unpredictable results. But you could experiment with a small area under the fore-end. And of course, you’re absolutely right about hunting with a high cond rifle! This one may be just right for your intended purpose.
clarence said
[email protected] said
Clarence, what is considered a giveaway price? I just did a Gunbroker search and the least expensive pre-64 featherweight ’06 was an unbarrelled action that sold for $659 which is less than what I would have in this one. All the complete rifles sold for much more. I don’t want it to show off to anyone, just a solid walnut and steel -type hunting rifle. I’d be afraid to hunt with a top condition rifle for the money they bring. Thanks again!
If you can buy it for less than $659, & can live with it as is without putting more into it, I guess that’s a good enough deal. It’s possible that bright blue can be made less garish by rubbing it down with a very mild abrasive (maybe Clover #6 paste), but that would be a strictly trial & error experiment with unpredictable results. But you could experiment with a small area under the fore-end. And of course, you’re absolutely right about hunting with a high cond rifle! This one may be just right for your intended purpose.
Thanks, Clarence!
November 7, 2015
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Doug-
The problem I have with collectible Models 70 is that so many are not what they appear to be and I likely won’t figure it out in time. With this rifle you know what you have and you know what you want. If you approach this rifle as a collector you’ll be disappointed. Sounds like a good candidate for a hunting rifle and that’s what most of these were built for. Have you taken a good look at the bore?
Mike
“He that tooteth not his horn, the same shall not be tooted.”
If it were possible, may I suggest the OP go back and read my article in the 2004 Summer edition of the Collector titled “Requiem for a Featherweight”, wherein I relate the restoration of a 1956 Featherweight 30/06.
Just based on what you’ve said about condition and what you want to explore doing to the gun you are considering, DON’T BUY IT. You will never be happy with it. If you care whether a Featherweight has a recoil pad, which many excellent candidates for your possible selection have, while considering recutting the rollmarks blurred by a bad reblue, don’t buy ANYTHING until you’ve got a better grip on the economic realities of fixing up abused Winchesters.
An almost pristine 30/06 Featherweight will cost between $1500 to $2500, from a dealer who takes trade-ins and consignments. Forget Gunbroker. Almost pristine means no recoil pad because it didn’t get shot much. Guess why.
What you need is a cosmetically worn but mechanically sound Featherweight 30/06 with a good barrel. You should be able to get one from a similar dealer for about $1,000. Forget Gunbroker. It WILL have a recoil pad because it got shot enough to cosmetically wear the wood and steel. You don’t like the pad, replace it with a better one. You can refinish the wood but don’t buy a reblued gun. There’s lots of them not reblued.
Fact, not opinion; A badly reblued Featherweight 30/06 cannot be remediated except by spending far more than the gun was worth and would be worth. Period.
I’ve been down this road in my youth and learned what I’m telling you the hard way. More than once. I know you are not looking for a Collectible but rather a Shooter. But you do care about appearance and to some degree originality. “Thine own mouth condemneth thee.” Don’t buy a reblued gun. You will be sorry.
I hope I haven’t offended you. This advice is sincere and well meant.
- Bill
WACA # 65205; life member, NRA; member, TGCA; member, TSRA; amateur preservationist
"I have seen wicked men and fools, a great many of both, and I believe they both get paid in the end, but the fools first." -- David Balfour, narrator and protagonist of the novel, Kidnapped, by Robert Louis Stevenson.
As an owner of a Featherweight in 30-06 SPRG , I tend to go along with the advice of Bill and Clarence. There is another possible option:
point out the flaws in this particular rifle and offer a more realistic price. Then consider keeping it as a shooter/hunter-or look for another rifle. Mine was far from a collector grade rifle, but it came “as issued” and suffered from neglect. The bore was excellent, and it now wears a custom Niedner-styled extra stock that has resulted in offers from potential buyers far above the original purchase price.
While an 1886 collector- I have many early Model 70s that run the border between collector grade rifles and those rifles most happy with their owner in the mountains of the West or in the Alaskan wilderness.
Pointing out the OP was thankful the rifle did not have a recoil pad is probably important in pointing out that originality is important to him. A hunting rifle in 30-06 especially in a light weight would benefit from a pad not from hunting as much since heavier clothing is normal in hunting season, and the sound and recoil aren’t noticed or remembered in the heat of the moment, but during the sighting in sessions in the summer a pad would be welcome. Adjusting your length of pull to you normal hunting attire with a pad can give your hunting rifle a custom feel too. I think I will add my name to the list recommending a more original example for him to be happy.
A hunting rifle in 30-06 especially in a light weight would benefit from a pad not from hunting as much since heavier clothing is normal in hunting season, and the sound and recoil aren’t noticed or remembered in the heat of the moment, but during the sighting in sessions in the summer a pad would be welcome.Greg Mansholt said
So use a PAST pad or a slip-on pad, rather than permanently disfigure the gun for future custodians. Or just buy a gun with recoil you can handle. Were GIs in WWI, WWII, & Korea provided with pads for their ’06s?
I’m not talking about a collectable M70, and no they were not issued recoil pads, but M-1’s did not shoot Hi-Power sporting loads either in any war(they couldn’t handle it), and are just a little heavier than a Featherweight M70. There are other factors that limit recoil too on a gas operated 06. If you become accustomed to and love your hunting rifle why are you going to worry about future custodians? Using a slip-on pad would be advantageous if you wanted a longer pull, but that is more often not the case. You should want the rifle to fit you. That is why I stated this rifle would make such an excellent hunting rifle, you can add that pad for more than just recoil. The hunting environment is not conducive to keeping your rifle from dings, or scratches either. My father carried an ugly sporterized M1917 with a nice scope. It was HIS hunting rifle for 40 years, heavy steel butt plate and all. All I can say is it fit him. If you ever picked one up you know they are very heavy, but he never entertained getting a different rifle. He made some incredible shots at game, but was not particularly good shooting at paper. If you’re a hunter you know what I’m talking about.
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