Log In
Members
Home
Add Reply
Add Topic
Offline
Does anyone know how to safely remove tape in this situation?
http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/hurint/media/1894%20sight%20reference/DSC02511_zpsb5d12959.jpg.html
Ouch! Thats going be a tuff one. Its got that good old tape. The older the tape the better the adhesive that would of been on it.
Have you tried a heat gun or a blow dryer? Once the adhesive is heated the tape may release from the box. Then theres the problem of the left over adhesive. Once its heated up, you might be able to glenty scrap the adhesive off.
I’ve never tried this but have had plenty of tape come off of paper and paper products in the summer heat. It gets pretty hot in the summer down here in Louisiana.
Hope this may Help.
Sincerely,
Maverick
WACA #8783 - Checkout my Reloading Tool Survey!
https://winchestercollector.org/forum/winchester-research-surveys/winchester-reloading-tool-survey/
Heat will work on new tape but old stuff that has dried hard will not thermo soften. I know the crime lab people use extreme cold to open or remove tape so they can check for finger prints. The problem is the remaining dried glue.
Bob
WACA Life Member--- NRA Life Member---- Cody Firearms member since 1991 Researching the Winchester 1873's
Email: [email protected]
I used the heat gun on the upper right corner. It didn’t leave too much residue under the tape but there is a layer of crud all along the tape edges. I haven’t tried cleaning up the lower right yet. I think that brown is the dried up glue 1873man mentioned. My second job might be fading the colors under the tape to match the rest of the box.
I thought this would be good practice. The seller had it in his shooter ammo bin and the rounds are all original WRA. I figure anything extra I can do with the box is a bonus. Thanks for the advice.
http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/hurint/media/1894%20sight%20reference/DSC02521_zps789e1159.jpg.html
Good job, congrats on your results, seemed to work nicely. I’m kinda surprised it worked so well.
Another theory you may wana try. You might try putting some rubbing alcohol on a cotton swab to get up or remove any remaining adhesive that left on the box. Too much rubbing alcohol may cause the old ink too leech out. So maybe good to keep the heat gun handy, as alcohol would quickly evaporate, and be extra careful applying.
I would understand if you wouldn’t consider doing the alcohol method. It could end up with bad results and may reverse your work.
Just courious to know, How long did you apply the heat gun before you tried removing the tape?
Sincerely,
Maverick
WACA #8783 - Checkout my Reloading Tool Survey!
https://winchestercollector.org/forum/winchester-research-surveys/winchester-reloading-tool-survey/
This is probably obvious but don’t have anything in or around the box that you don’t want to heat up.
I have a cheap heat gun. Low setting is 700 degrees. I had it on the tape for maybe 3 seconds and got under a corner of the tape with a thin, sharp pocket knife. Tape came right off. In a couple spots it took some tiny pieces of the box with it. I think I could have been more careful too. I’ll post a picture when I get a chance to finish cleaning it up.
I had some residue after some of the tape was peeled off. I ended up holding the heat on it for 15-20 seconds until the residue softened enough to scrape up. It only seems to work on the printed areas of the box; where there is residue on plain cardboard it doesn’t want to come off. I did some damage. Good learning experience anyway 🙂
http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/hurint/media/1894%20sight%20reference/DSC02529_zpsebfe2079.jpg.html
Figured I better find these pics and get them uploaded!
Great Job. The adhesive where there is not ink is probably more properly bonded to the pourous cardboard.
Glad my suggestion paid off.
Sincerely,
Maverick
WACA #8783 - Checkout my Reloading Tool Survey!
https://winchestercollector.org/forum/winchester-research-surveys/winchester-reloading-tool-survey/
You might try a product called "Goo Gone" to remove the residue. That is what it is designed for and works pretty well. It is a liquid so excess amount may soak into the paper.
I’d second the motion on ‘Goo Gone’ WHERE post_id = it is designed to dissolve sticky stuff. We use it mostly for cleaning wood sap off our hands and that horrible adhesive that is so gummy you can’t scrape it off. Try a little on a cotton swab and gently rub the glue. It might take 30 seconds or more to soak into the glue.
I agree Goo-Gone is good for this, but I would use it with a "Q" tip and test on a small area first. It’s very strong stuff.
Never tried Goo-Gone but Hedley’s results speak for themselves. And all he used was a heat gun and some patience.
–Maverick
WACA #8783 - Checkout my Reloading Tool Survey!
https://winchestercollector.org/forum/winchester-research-surveys/winchester-reloading-tool-survey/
Sorry I don’t have an after picture anymore. I’m surprised there’s still a before picture. My album was getting pretty big on photobucket and I’ve been deleting old pictures from some of these old posts. I never tried goo gone. Like I mentioned, the heat gun worked OK over the printed areas of the box but didn’t work as well over the bare card stock/board. It was a good "shooter" class box to practice on.
Brad
I know this is an old post, but thought I’d throw my two cents in. Many years ago, I asked the same question of a paper conservator. He told me to go to my local hardware store and buy a quart of Naphtha. You’ll find it in the paint section. Apply it to the tape and let it set. Apply several times as needed and the tape will come off completely without changing the color of the paste board box or the label. It leaves no residue and is a wonder drug for removing tape from old paper products. Another plus is the fact that it doesn’t leave the smell that comes from Goo Gone. Hope this will help.
1 Guest(s)
