Reloading flat base bullets vs. boat tail|Winchester Hunting, Shooting & Reloading|Forum|Winchester Collector

I’ll be following this thread to see what you get for responses, since I’m just starting to get into reloading, myself.  The main reason I decided to start reloading in the first place was because of the newly acquired 32 WS and 38-55 Winchesters I picked up, and how difficult and expensive it is to buy this ammo.

Frank

If your die does not flare the case neck use a tapered punch.  Make sure you are pushing the expander die all the way in first.  Most lead bullets for our lever guns come pre lubed but you can use silica or graphite.  Neck tension can be achieved by crimping or better by using a different diameter expander.  Measure the diameter of the case mouth after sizing then again after bullet seating.  The difference is the neck tension.  .003″ of neck tension is about all you need.  The least amount of neck tension is best.  You need just enough that your bullets aren’t backing out during recoil or when you have to pull a loaded round out of the chamber.   Flat base bullets are probably better for the old bores.  These give you more bullet surface to grip the rifling.  You loose some surface with boat tail bullets.  Chamfering and deburring is a must for new or just trimmed cases.  You don’t need a fancy tool to add dry lube.  Just dip the case mouth into the container of lube or dip a brush in it.  Some leave some of the spray case lube on the inside of the neck.  Here is one of the most common dry lubes.  The container has a bunch of little balls in it coated with the dry lube and the other one is just the dry lube.  You can find this cheaper.

Matt-

I load almost exclusively lead plain-base or gas checked bullets, most of which I cast. Many of todays reloaders use jacketed bullets for rifle rounds, they do not require the case mouth to be flared. Most rifle die sets do not include a case mouth flaring tool because most reloaders do not require them. All the bullets I make require the case mouth to be flared so I need a die to do that job. I generally use RCBS Cowboy dies or the Lyman M dies that Ronald mentions above. I deburr after trimming but I don’t think the slight chamfer I apply will help with seating a cast bullet with a sharp base. 

I’ve also noticed that some conventional sizing dies make the neck section of a bottle neck case such as the 32WS too tight while the RCBS Cowboy dies employ minimal resizing. 

As far as using BT bullets I have little use for them. Depending on the BC and velocity the boat tail bullet generally offers little or no ballistic benefit inside of 300 yards and precious little for the next 100-200 yards. I don’t see that being helpful in a 32WS.

Mike

Matt        Regarding loading cast bullets, and to a less extent jacketed bullets, you need the proper tools.   Most dies will work, some better then others.   For loading cast you not only need to flare the case, you also need to expand the case neck down as far as the base of the bullet goes.  Most LEE dies don’t go down far enough, and the projectiles start in crooked,  same can happen with too tight neck.   RCBS Cowboy dies should be good, and Lyman set with M die are very good.  Both these die sets do good crimps, best done after seating in separate  step.    Lyman CAST Bullet book is handy.   Go carefully and you can make better cartridges then you can buy, and a lot cheaper.      Eric     

I’ve used hundreds of X-treme plated bullets for my 9mm pistols.  Never had an issue and their (plated) bullets are good quality. I wouldn’t hesitate to buy cast from them, if I didn’t pour my own…