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I had some scrap .45-70 rounds, fired once, that I wished to practice on. I resized them to .45-70, then was going to size to .40-65, then to .38-56, then to .33 Winchester.
Once fired .45-70 rounds, Hornady Unique case lube.
Except I’m afraid to get a case stuck. Plus, I’m not sure if being once fired if I need to anneal first???
I have the mouth of one case only necked down to .40-65 and that’s it.
Maybe a topic for Mark at the Cinnabar?
Suggestions and tidbits?
I would anneal the cases before using the 40-65 dies. I don’t think you need to use the 38-56 step. Use any good case lube so they don’t get stuck.
Its been a few years now, since last I reformed .45-70 to .33 Win. Best I can recall, I’ve tried step sizing vs one stage resizing from .45-70 down to .33. One time it seems to have fewer wrinkled necks. the next time seems to make no difference. I use standard RCBS sizing lube and haven’t stuck one yet. I do lever just a ways then back off and then some more, not one big, giant stroke. I’ve also had a good friend anneal once fired .45-70s and reform and rejection rate is about the same, maybe a bit better. Biggest piece of advice in my mind is to trim the mouths so they are indeed square and uniform as that seems to be the starting spot for wrinkles. If you experiment and find one way better than the other, please let me know. My source of once fired Remington .45-70 dried up! They were free so it wasn’t worth my time to go to great lengths to avoid wrinkled necks! Tim
It has been more than 25-years since I last resized 45-70 (R-P) cases to 33 WCF. I was using once fired cases and I did not anneal them. I did use multiple resizing dies, starting with the 40-65. Like Tim, I used RCBS lube, and I did not use a full stroke to accomplish the resizing. I typically did it by feel and used a double stroke. None of them ever stuck in the die, and of the (400) that I resized I only had (2) that I pitched into the brass bucket.
Bert
WACA Historian & Board of Director Member #6571L
Just follow what the others have said. I really like RCBS Imperial lube when I’m forming cases. I’ve learned over the years that there is certainly a “feel” to the process. Some of my cases form easily and others require more effort.
On brass that requires more effort, I back my die out after setting the locking ring. I raise the ram, lower, and twist the case 180 degrees and raise the ram again. Turn the die down a couple more turns and repeat the process until you touch the shell holder. You will learn as you go along. I suggest that you either make a stuck case remover or purchase a kit. If you reload long enough, you will eventually need it. Best of luck.
I have had to remove stuck cases before. Not my favorite thing to do!
So, Hornady Unique Lube is out of the question? I might have to order something else. I have beeswax, paraffin, and lanolin on hand, a mix of which I use for black powder reloading.
I have no experience with the Hornady lube. I’ve tried numerous other products and have finally settled on Imperial. I had a run of broken cases when forming 30-06 to 256 Newton. I have not had any issues since using Imperial.
Imperial lube has been my favorite since I started loading over 40 years ago. At that time, I purchased the RCBS stuck case remover – have yet to use it. I’ll still keep it around 
I reload every week. When I do 50 cases I use Hornady spray lube but for specialty work I use Redding Imperial sizing die wax.
Experience reloading for a few 1886 rifles in 33 WCF indicates annealing, even with a small alcohol lamp or candle
works-especially with 45-70 cases.
Best results came from new Starline 40-65 cases which lend themselves well to reforming and case life. Case lube must be watched
as too much invites oil creases/lube dents in the brass. Hawk bullets and some older gun shops still may have old stocks of the 200 grain discontinued FP Hornady bullets.
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