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Hi gang, I just recently came across this Model 52 that is dated 1924. Funny thing is I cannot seem to find a lot of information on these early models as opposed to the Sporter models. Can anyone throw some history and thoughts on condition does it look to be original or was it refinished and thoughts on value. I can pick this up for 599.00 I cleaned the years of gunk out of the bolt so it actually works pretty smoothly now. It has the scope mount blocks and the ladder sight sight works perfectly..
Thanks
Pretty good original cond, except for what appears to be light rust spotting on the right rear of the brl. Price is quite fair, at least $100 below what you’d have to pay on Gunbroker. If you aren’t aware, this is what collectors call a “Slowlock” to distinguish it from the later “Speedlock” model, the main diff being that your gun cocks on the final closing motion of the bolt, the later model on the opening motion, which most shooters prefer.
That’s a pip and fairly early. Congrats for a nice find. It may have some finish added to the stock, but otherwise looks correct to me. The fun is yet to come! RDB
On those old Slowlocks, be sure to check for the Crack of Doom before you pays your money. That looks to be a real nice rifle. Here’s one of mine. Its a stainless. # 7001. Big Larry
Hey Big Larry, I am not familiar with the crack of doom. Can you explain where I would find this.
I just did some research and was able to find an image of the Crack of Doom. Thanks for the heads up on this I will check tomorrow.
[email protected] said
Hey Big Larry, I am not familiar with the crack of doom. Can you explain where I would find this.
It sometimes occurs in the rear corner of the locking lug abutment. Not caused by shooting, but by application of the safety (which no target rifle needs anyway), which puts excessive pressure on that thin steel lip; in later models, this part of the rcvr. was made thicker, though it took the factory about 10 yrs to get around to it. The crack, if it’s there, doesn’t make shooting the gun unsafe, but it should be taken into account in pricing.
clarence said
Pretty good original cond, except for what appears to be light rust spotting on the right rear of the brl. Price is quite fair, at least $100 below what you’d have to pay on Gunbroker. If you aren’t aware, this is what collectors call a “Slowlock” to distinguish it from the later “Speedlock” model, the main diff being that your gun cocks on the final closing motion of the bolt, the later model on the opening motion, which most shooters prefer.
Thanks Clarence, I was not aware of the difference between the two rifles. That explains the slight pressure on the final close of the bolt.
Over the years, I have owned many M52’s, A,B,C, and D, Slowlocks and Speedlocks. A couple managed to get by me with the COD. Two were quite rare. I sold off most of my M52’s and just kept the heavy bbls, and a couple Slowlocks. I am about ready to sell them off, but not cheap. These are the pick of the litter. Too many guns. Nearing 200. I am 80 and it may be time to divest myself of a few. I say that, and I bought a S&W M39-2 today. They take up less room.
1934 Speedlock with early Lyman Super Targetspot.
If you bought that rifle, think seriously about a nice Winchester A5 to go on it. The scope will cost you more than the rifle. Big Larry
Big Larry said
If you bought that rifle, think seriously about a nice Winchester A5 to go on it. The scope will cost you more than the rifle. Big Larry
That’s no lie! A more economical alternative would be one of the high-quality repros made by MVA; optically, far superior to the originals. Better yet, shoot with the original sights, as I do.
I would no more put a fake repro scope on such a fine rifle than a man in the moon. Yes, the optics are better. I am old school. I have scopes from 1922 to the new modern scopes on some of my new model 22’s. Mix and match I say. My favorite is a 20X Lyman STS NIB given to me by a friend. Best scope ever. Big Larry
Original scoped M69.
clarence said
[email protected] said
Hey Big Larry, I am not familiar with the crack of doom. Can you explain where I would find this.
It sometimes occurs in the rear corner of the locking lug abutment. Not caused by shooting, but by application of the safety (which no target rifle needs anyway), which puts excessive pressure on that thin steel lip; in later models, this part of the rcvr. was made thicker, though it took the factory about 10 yrs to get around to it. The crack, if it’s there, doesn’t make shooting the gun unsafe, but it should be taken into account in pricing.
Larry here are some very clear images of the area in question, I do not see anything out of the ordinary. What do you think sir.
No problems with that rifle, other than the front sight that is not original. Great gun, even greater price. I would have jumped on that rifle like a duck on a June Bug. A nice, early, M1907 sling would be nice for it. Just remember, don’t use the safety. An open bolt will suffice. Did it come with an original 2 rib magazine with the 1919 patent date? Big Larry
Nice, It will be in my safe very soon. yes there is the original Winchester 5 round magazine that says 1919.
thanks Larry for all of that great information. Much appreciated.
[email protected] said
Nice, It will be in my safe very soon. yes there is the original Winchester 5 round magazine that says 1919.
Not good to leave it cocked in the safe, as it is now. Just hold back the trigger as you close the bolt, & the mainspring will decompress. You might also consider buying a spare mag or two to save your original, & this is the only company that makes good ones: http://www.wisnersinc.com/web_layout/rifles/stevens/singleshotlever.html
Interesting I just looked at the bolt and did as you mentioned. Nice to know that you can decompress the mainspring without pulling the trigger, we both know that is not ideal.. I will look into the magazine.
Big Larry said
No problems with that rifle, other than the front sight that is not original. Great gun, even greater price. I would have jumped on that rifle like a duck on a June Bug. A nice, early, M1907 sling would be nice for it. Just remember, don’t use the safety. An open bolt will suffice. Did it come with an original 2 rib magazine with the 1919 patent date? Big Larry
Hi Larry, I brought the rifle home and was looking over the sight. There are two opposing thumb screws for the windage I moved these but do not see any movement in the scale. is there something I am missing in the operation of these screws or is there possibly something damaged underneath.
[email protected] said
There are two opposing thumb screws for the windage I moved these but do not see any movement in the scale. is there something I am missing in the operation of these screws or is there possibly something damaged underneath.
You have to back off the opposite screw before the one you’re turning can move the scale; then turn the opposite one tight again. It may also be stuck tight because it hasn’t been moved in many decades, so it might be a good idea to apply penetrating solvent & tap it with a plastic mallet to make sure it’s free. Doesn’t help that the windage screw heads are so small, & the friction springs so tight.
I enlarged the second pic of your action ( the one that looks straight down)… it does appear that a crack is forming… I do hope I’m wrong and that it’s wear, finish or lighting… what I’m seeing 1/3 the way from the corner, where the bolt locks, moving to the right and slightly down…
You did very well on the price. Just saw one on Guns Intl. pretty close to yours with the asking price of $1,595. I called and they would only come down $100.
Too much for a 95% rifle. I paid $2,000 for my near mint 1927 rifle, but it came with a near mint Winchester A5 scope. Prices on these vintage rifles go up and down. You have to get lucky like you did. I have never fired either of my slowlocks, but I have fired a few speedlocks and they are super accurate especially at 100 yards. Big Larry
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