Log In
Members
Home
Add Reply
Add Topic
Didn’t have much time to work on it this weekend Mike but made a little progress. Bit by bit and it all comes together…….. Should have the receiver back this week and can start on it next weekend.
Erin
November 7, 2015
Offline
Very nice! What process did you use for removing the old plating? I’m guessing chemical but don’t give away any trade secrets.
Mike
No secret, All the parts are bead blasted which removes all the gunk, rust and loose plating. Any plating that does not come off during the bead blasting is removed when the parts are polished. The plating is very thin and polishes off easily with the initial grit of aluminum oxide. The flat pieces, hammer, slide plate cover etc. I put on a surface grinder to clean up. Usually a couple of .001″ passes cleans them up very nicely.
Erin
November 7, 2015
Offline
Very nice, you certainly have a light touch with that polishing wheel. Surface grinder to clean up and keep the edges sharp. Nicely done, thanks for taking the time to explain the process.
No buffing wheels used……….. If it’s not a flat part it’s hand polished. (surface grinder was only used on the side plate cover and hammer) The only exception being the magazine tube which goes on a barrel spinner. (final polish still done by hand) Buffing wheels round off edges, wash out screw holes and elongate and shallow up lettering. The ONLY way to keep sharp edges and straight lines is to do it by hand and that is one of the reasons proper restorations cost money. It takes time. A surface grinder has a magnetic table that secures the part, the grinding wheel is stationary (depth of cut is adjusted by moving the grinding head down) and the table is operated just like a milling machine. Basically precision grinding, as only enough metal is removed to true the part up so to speak. When I do the receiver this weekend I will take a couple of before, during and after shots which will make things a little easier to see.
Best,
Erin
Here’s a few pics Mike that will help clarify. Had a snow day today and was able to pick up my receiver.
First pic Receiver is bead blasted and TIG welded.
Set up complete on grinder. Feeler gauge used as a shim to offset the difference in thickness of the receiver from one end to the other.
First couple of passes. Always seems the worst area is in the lowest spot……….
Grinding finished, time to start hand polishing.
Best,
Erin
Erin, Your photos explain what I could never otherwise understand, so thanks for taking the trouble to make them. I’ve tried a bit of hand polishing, discovering in the process that the most essential skill–PATIENCE–I just ain’t got!
clarence said
Erin, Your photos explain what I could never otherwise understand, so thanks for taking the trouble to make them. I’ve tried a bit of hand polishing, discovering in the process that the most essential skill–PATIENCE–I just ain’t got!
Glad you picked up a little insight. The hand polishing thing, It’s tedious but you should see forward progress steadily. The trick is to know your starting point, whether it be a file or emery, keeping your lines straight and when to stop as far as removing metal, even if there is some defect left. Sometimes you just can’t get a 100% on the metal.
Best,
Erin
Updates for ya Mike,
I retrieved my barrel on Thursday from the welding shop, Yikes!! lots of work.
Half of the first flat draw filed
Seven hours and 3 files later………No kidding!! It will take an additional 3-5 hours with cloth backed abrasives to final polish it. The barrel liner is installed but not faced, crowned or chambered yet.
I’m cheating on the wood, I did this stock a while back and put it on one of my first models. I pulled it off and ran it over (70 Miles) to the fellow who does my checkering and he also engraves. I usually have him clean up the lettering on my projects if need be. Whether the roll die was really weak from the factory or if something needs to be recut altogether. One of our members was kind enough to send me a pic of the bottom of the checkering pattern for a straight grip deluxe so we should get the checkering done properly. Here is the piece that is going on it.
I will use the butt stock that came off this rifle to replace the one I stole off the first model. It was in very good shape so it should turn out just fine.
Best,
Erin
Randal McEvers said
SWEET!
SWEAT! is more like it–12+ hours on the brl alone!
November 7, 2015
Offline
Very nice piece of wood! Barrel is a good example of how technology has changed manufacturing. I’m pretty sure Winchester’s filers didn’t have welds or your other obstacles to deal with but there was a time when a lot of hand work went into building a rifle. Just realized that’s probably why some collectors prefer the pre-war guns, more than a few craftsmen spent more than a little time making Winchesters look and work right.
Nice work, Erin. Thanks for posting the pics of your work in progress.
Mike
I should have everything ready to go to the plating facility by the end of the weekend. Then it’s just waiting for everything to get back and putting it all together. It should be ready for it’s debut in June………Maybe a bit earlier. (hopefully)
Best,
Erin
Received the stock back from Kim. Looks pretty good, not quite perfect around the end of the lower tang. The metal will go out on Monday, ran into a glitch with the barrel that needed a bit more attention but it’s good to go now. A few pics. of the stock.
Best,
Erin
November 7, 2015
Offline
Nice, Erin. Hard to say what happened in the area you pointed out but it may be related to the beautiful highly figured wood you chose for your project. I’ve read that wood with a bunch of figure is difficult to checker but the craftsmen at Winchester dealt with this on a daily basis. It’s a piece of wood and some areas may not checker well, I don’t know. I wish I had 10% of the talent of the artist who checkered your stock. It’s going to be a beautiful rifle, Erin.
Mike
Thanks guys,
The double border is actually what I was pointing out. The radius cut on the inside line looks like it gave him a bit of trouble. You are correct on highly figured wood being a bugger Mike. All aspects of it are more difficult than straight grained wood. There are very hard spots running into soft ones throughout. Shaping, inletting even sanding is effected. The soft spots cut much easier than the hard spots. I don’t checker but I know it has to be problematic with the highly figured wood. The next post here should show the finished project………..Stay tuned, I’m guessing about a month out.
Best,
Erin
Great work Erin! Do you have pictures of what you started with? Maybe located in a previous post?
Jim M. said
Great work Erin! Do you have pictures of what you started with? Maybe located in a previous post?
This is it Jim:
Just click on the # in my first post. It will take you to the original GB ad.
https://winchestercollector.org/forum/winchester-22-rim-fire/real-early-2nd-model-1890-half-nickel/
Best,
Erin
1 Guest(s)
