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I got the Lyman 57 WTR today. I wanted to test the accuracy before installing the peep sight but didn’t get the opportunity as the bolt handle wouldn’t clear any of the spare scopes I have laying around. The sight didn’t come with screws (I already knew that) but I thought what I had would fit. To my surprise the heads were too big to go into the counter sunk hole. I used my belt sander to remove enough material to allow the bolt head to enter the counter sunk hole. I don’t know if anyone has needed screw/bolts to mount their peep sight on a 52B but I’d like to share what I did to get the sight on.
I’ll post photos with a caption above the photo. Hopefully this will make this topic the easiest to understand.
The screws I used came from a Pachmayr Master Gunsmith Screw kit. I’d highly recommend this kit to anyone that fiddles with firearms much.
The screws I used were 6-48 x 5/16 and 6-48 x 1/2. Other sights may require a different length.
This is the belt sander I used. It made the material removal fairly easy.
Here are the two screws after modification.
Showing screws in place.
Showing how much the screws extend through the sight.
The rest of the photos just shows the sight as mounted.
That’s the end of the photos. Hopefully this can help someone if needed. I gave the topic a generic title to help with future search results someone may enter.
My initial thoughts on the Lyman 57 WTR.
As far as the sight itself, it is aluminum which will not be a durable as steel sights like the Lyman 48. That doesn’t bother me because once I get it set there’s not much need to adjust it. It is difficult to turn the elevation screw by hand but the windage is fairly easy. There is a really small set screw located on top of the sight right beside the elevation screw; the only thing I can think this is for is to set your zero stop. I’m not fond about the yardage marks as shown on the sliding scale. Not sure why Lyman made it this way, maybe someone can explain it. Again, I know it’s not the quality of the Lyman 48 but for $50.11 delivered I believe it will satisfy my needs.
Win 52 Pre A = Basket Case
Win 52B Repro = Is what it is
Win 52D = Pristine
Kisssofdeath said
I’m not fond about the yardage marks as shown on the sliding scale. Not sure why Lyman made it this way, maybe someone can explain it.
Guess because a scale marked in yards, such as the early factory sight standard on 52s, could only be accurate for one particular load or ammo. However, though the yardage marks may not be exactly right, they’re close, & settings in yards are much easier to remember than meaningless, arbitrary numeric marks such as the ones on this & most rcvr sights. Some later Lyman sights had both, numeric marks on one side of the index & yards on the opposite side.
Elevation screw meant to be turned with a coin, not by hand.
I think for your particular purpose, buying the cheaper sight was the better choice.
Thanks for the explanation on the yardage scale. Although it’s raining here I shot out of my garage on my 25 yard range. I don’t have a bench at that location so I shot offhand. To my surprise the elevation almost bottomed out. That’s probably ok because I want to see where it shoots at 50 yards from a rest without adjusting the elevation.
I also discovered that apertures from Williams will fit but the ones for a BRNO will not. When I was sighting in I didn’t have to adjust the windage at all. BUT, when I was changing out the apertures I noticed a problem…the windage screw has play/slop in it. I can wiggle it sideways which was very disappointing. The clicks on the elevation screw are good. I guess if I find a Lyman 48 (F?) I might get it if it doesn’t cost to much.
Does anyone know what the problem could be regarding the movement on my windage screw?
Here’s my 25 yard target. The high shots are where I started at and slowing moved down. That dot is 2″.
Win 52 Pre A = Basket Case
Win 52B Repro = Is what it is
Win 52D = Pristine
Kisssofdeath said
Does anyone know what the problem could be regarding the movement on my windage screw?
But is this play actually moving the aperture? If not, I’d say it’s nothing to worry about. Once centered, no reason to change adjustment again, so if this play is too annoying, half a drop of lacquer (nail polish) ought to stop it.
That’s a good idea on the nail polish.
It stopped raining this evening and I was able to get out and shoot some. Yes, the aperture does move. I ended up having to adjust the windage to the left, it’s splitting hairs now I guess, so I’ll leave it. I found out that the clicks are .250″ movement which is great. I thought the sight being on the low end it would be .500″ per click. Only real negative is the sliding yardage scale. With the markings it’s really useless to me. I believe I’ll turn it over and use the backside and make my own (non-permanent) marks. As for adjustments per distance, from the 25 yard line I had to bring it up 3″. At that point I reset the set screw to identify my zero stop. I have not went back to 25 yards to verify the point of impact. From 50 to 75 yards nothing significant changed in the point of impact. At 100 yards I had to come up 14 clicks to be centered again. This is a point where I need to mark the sliding scale because I’m probably not going to remember to come up 14 clicks at 100 yards with 1200 fps ammo unless I write it down. Another thing I notice this evening was, the front sight blade has a white (ivory??) dot in the center of the blade. I got a photo to show what I’m talking about. Anyway, this is the first one I have seen like this. It ended up being very useful when centering the front sight in the aperture and getting the front sight centered on the target.
One thing I’d like help with is with the photos. First, I don’t understand why they are in thumbnail form unless that’s a default setting for this forum. The other thing is when I click on a thumbnail it enlarges the photo so much that I can’t see the X to close the photo. When I hit the back button it takes me out of the topic. I’d just like to know what I’m doing wrong. Anyway, here’s a few photos of todays shooting. This time captions are in the photos.
I noticed on this last photo I have the target listed as being 12″ when it’s actually 6″. The front sight covers up this target. I have to get the elevation correct first then moving right, off the target then coming back on the target to where I believe is the best spot.
Win 52 Pre A = Basket Case
Win 52B Repro = Is what it is
Win 52D = Pristine
My photos are a basket case.
Win 52 Pre A = Basket Case
Win 52B Repro = Is what it is
Win 52D = Pristine
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Kisssofdeath said
My photos are a basket case.
To exit the enlarged picture without exiting the topic, use the “Esc” key.
Pictures are by default loaded as thumbnail size to conserve space.
Bert
WACA Historian & Board of Director Member #6571L
Kisssofdeath said
Yes, the aperture does move. I ended up having to adjust the windage to the left, it’s splitting hairs now I guess, so I’ll leave it. I found out that the clicks are .250″ movement which is great. I thought the sight being on the low end it would be .500″ per click. Only real negative is the sliding yardage scale. With the markings it’s really useless to me. I believe I’ll turn it over and use the backside and make my own (non-permanent) marks.
Good idea flipping the index & making your own range markings. Way it’s meant to be used is moving the zero mark to your usual firing range, say 50 yds, then counting the 1/4′ clicks up from there for longer ranges; that’s the mathematical method, but mine is the trial & error method with a spotting scope.
Looks like you have no choice but to immobilize the windage adj with lacquer or by some other means after it’s properly centered.
Well, shot a little today. Verified zero again at 50 yards, verified number of clicks needed to hit center at 100 yards. I’ll leave the sight where it is and remove the elevation plate, turn it over and mark it somehow. If I remember I’ll call Lyman tomorrow and talk about the windage issue.
Win 52 Pre A = Basket Case
Win 52B Repro = Is what it is
Win 52D = Pristine
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