When I bought this gun the barreled action had been re-blued and other metal parts have been Ceracoated. Since the originality is long gone I didn’t see any harm in refinishing the stock. I’m looking forward to doing this myself even though I’ve never done it before. It certainly would be appreciated if someone with the proper knowledge would guide me in the right direction.
1. This model 74 was made in 1955 and appears to have the original finish on the stock. What type of finish is that and what is the best way to remove it?
2. The gentleman at the LGS sold me some Birchwood Casey gunstock sealer and filler and a bottle of Tru Oil. I wasn’t planning on using any stain. Is that a good plan?
Thanks
Bill
November 7, 2015

I’ve had excellent results using Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil. Take your time, several light coats are better than a few thick ones. Prep work is very important, you will always be able to see where you should have spent a little more time.
Mike
Like Mike said. Once you remove the old finish you may want to consider stain. Be hesitant about sanding the wood. If you have scratches or dings these will show up after the finish is applied but excess sanding may cause other problems. Light coats, let dry between coats, lightly sand with very fine grit paper like 400 or finer, use a sanding block. Shiny spots are low spots. Apply coats until the finish is flat. Don’t sand the final coat. This will produce a high gloss finish.
Since at the time Winchester was using tinted/stained lacquer, I tint some pure Tung Oil and apply it like we do linseed oil. Apply small amounts by hand and hand rub oil into the wood, many coats sometimes needed. It gives a very durable waterproof finish. You must use pure Tung Oil , no driers added. This is my model 490, who’s finish had been water damaged.
Vince
Southern Oregon
NRA member
Fraternal Order of Eagles
“There is but one answer to be made to the dynamite bomb and that can best be made by the Winchester rifle.”
Teddy Roosevelt
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