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local shop has one for sale. its tagged as a 1890 .22 I’m going to look at it tomorrow. anything I need to really look at? I’ve always liked the way these things worked. it’s got a long octagonal barrel, rifle buttstock (crescent metal buttplate). price at $250 i remember when i talked to the seller before, i was told the inside feed tube was missing the spring.
I’m not looking at it as a investment type of rifle, I just want to get one that functions. if I have to slowly acquire parts, it’s easier on the wallet than spending twice as much at once. (doesnt make sense but it’s a mental money thing to me). thanks. jim
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Jim,
Unless the bore resembles a sewer pipe, it would be real hard to go wrong at just $250… go buy it, and then assess what else it might need to be a functional (safe) shooter.
Bert
WACA Historian & Board of Director Member #6571L
well went ahead and picked it up. not the greatest bore, but I do see rifling. stock is compete but cracked. theres a old repair someone inlaid a square nut and ran a bolt thru it
but its cracked farther up by the tang. it’s got the crescent rifle stock. 22 wrf is the caliber. missing parts is the inner feed tube spring and follower which I’ll order tonight. the model is stamped on top of the barrel. sn is 381838 A. jim
Examine the end of the tube. If the follower and spring are missing, it’s likely to be damaged (the follower should not have been able to come out the end).
Might be a better idea to look for a complete inner tube. Also be aware that WRF magazine parts are not interchangeable with .22 short, long or LR parts (the .22 WRF cartridge should not be confused with any other .22 either). The WRF tube has a larger diameter and the follower is different.
Replacement .22 WRF parts can be found on Ebay. Wisner’s also makes a WRF tube that’s reasonably priced.
http://www.wisnersinc.com/model/winchester-pump-action-rimfire
it looks like I need part number 6690, is that correct? I guess I should email them and make sure it’s a complete tube with spring and follower.. thank you. jim
Yes 6690. It’s listed as complete assembly. I’ve gotten tubes from them….they are nice quality.
thanks, will be ordering it shortly and some ammo. looking at the stock, it just basically split and the broken part is held together with a bolt and nut. I’m going to remove the bolt and either wood glue or epoxy and clamp the stock back together. jim
Have fun reviving your new model 1890, I think you’re going to love the 22WRF. I have one with dark bore and just visible rifling and it shoots great after redoing the crown. Get before and after photos.
Vince
Southern Oregon
NRA member
Fraternal Order of Eagles
“There is but one answer to be made to the dynamite bomb and that can best be made by the Winchester rifle.”
Teddy Roosevelt
gotta love these old guns (posted back in january when I bought a 1894 src). ran a brush thru the bore, patches were filthy but the bore cleaned up nicely!
watching the way the gun functions I notice the carriers not staying up correctly. the spring was a little bent and the lever wasnt staying down.
A little tweak and it works.
now I’m looking at the bolt….how does the spent shell get ejected??? well it looks like the extractor is broke and the claw!!!
so it looks like im ordering a extractor, inner tube assembly, extra carrier lever spring, and a extractor pin. Looks like jack first has it all in stock, going to cost a couple extra dollars but I’ll probably save on shipping buying from 1 vendor.
price or the rifle was $219 plus tax
additional parts $87 plus ship.
my 30-30 started at $100 all the parts to complete the rifle ran $215 bucks. when am I going to learn to leave these poor broken orphans alone! I’m sure I’ll have questions. thanks for reading my rant. (I actually enjoy bringing broken things back to working condition) jim
posted in the gunsmith forum. question I had is does the spring for the carrier lever hold up the carrier when the gun is split in half? or does the carrier fall down? thanks.jim
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The carrier should be held in the upright position. You should be able to push it down with your finger, release it and it should lift the carrier.
Erin
thanks, I had a feeling the spring was bent. I tweaked it a little and it seems maybe a little too much. it’s almost like the bolt is fighting the position of the carrier when I pull the slide back. I do have a new spring on it’s way. jim
does the extractor claw keep the carrier up too? I’ve got a extractor on it’s way. just trying to figure this stuff out by looking at it. jim
I had to replace an extractor once. It takes a bit to figure out how to get the bolt out. I can’t remember what I did so find someone to tell you how to do it. It wasn’t hard once I figured out what to do.
Drive the pin out of the rear magazine band. (left to right) This pin holds the magazine tube in place. Slide the magazine tube forward (sometimes easier said than done) until it clears the rear ring. Remove the screw that holds the forearm slide cover plate. Remove the side cover plate (aluminum punch) tapping it towards the muzzle. with the bolt in the forward or locked position the forearm can now be removed. Depress the firing pin, pushing up on the front of the bolt from the bottom it will unlock and then you can slide it out the rear of the receiver. (The rifle does need to be separated using the take down feature.) The extractor pin is best removed driving the retaining pin out from the bottom towards the top. (this keeps from marring the finish on the exposed end.) I spray all contact points (magazine rings, mag tube entering receiver and all screws and pins with Kroil a couple days before I try putting a screwdriver or punch to them. It makes life easier and reduces some foul language. 
Erin
thanks for all the information. parts came in today, spent more time looking for a small punch to knock out the little pins. got the pins out, extractor swapped, new inner magazine tube. looks like everything functions fine.
next up order new brass pins and epoxy to put the stock back into 1 piece.
also order a brick of ammo. jim
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