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Hi,
I’m looking for some help. I just got a 1895 rifle that was made in 1898 that has a damaged tang screw. The threads at the end of the screw are quite bunged up, the screw was in fact wrapped in tape to give it a friction fit in the gun to keep it from falling out, the threads don’t hold at all. Can someone tell me the thread size so I can try chasing the threads with the correct die in hopes I can salvage this screw? It also looks like the upper and lower tanks are sprung slightly wider apart than I’d expect, in other words one tang or the other stands about 3/16 of and inch proud of the stock with no screw in. Is this normal and taken up when the screw is tightened?
Thanks
Don
November 7, 2015
Offline
Hard to say without seeing it but it sounds like you probably have the wrong screw and possibly other issues.
Mike
Online
[email protected] said
Hi,I’m looking for some help. I just got a 1895 rifle that was made in 1898 that has a damaged tang screw. The threads at the end of the screw are quite bunged up, the screw was in fact wrapped in tape to give it a friction fit in the gun to keep it from falling out, the threads don’t hold at all. Can someone tell me the thread size so I can try chasing the threads with the correct die in hopes I can salvage this screw? It also looks like the upper and lower tanks are sprung slightly wider apart than I’d expect, in other words one tang or the other stands about 3/16 of and inch proud of the stock with no screw in. Is this normal and taken up when the screw is tightened?
Thanks
Don
Hi Don,
The thread size on the 1895 tang screw is approximately 12 x 28 and the overall length is approximately is 1.75 inches. It would cost you less just to purchase a new screw (or an original used screw) than it would to buy the 12×28 die. New screws can be bought for about $4 here http://homesteadparts.com/shopcart/pid_860.htm Or you can get a used one on eBay. The same screw fits the 1873, 1892 and 1894 with some minor length variations.
No, the tang should not be that proud of the stock. If the stock has been heavily sanded it will make the tang stand out or if it is bent as you mentioned.
Hope that helps.
Regards,
WACA Life Member #6284 - Specializing in Pre-64 Winchester .22 Rimfire
Thanks for your help.
I’ll buy a new screw and see how things look after installing it.
I’ll be back with the results.
I appreciate the help!
Regards
Don
Hi Everyone,
I’m still waiting for the screw – ordered it nearly 3 weeks ago!
Don
[email protected] said
Hi Everyone,I’m still waiting for the screw – ordered it nearly 3 weeks ago!
Don
Where did you buy it from? Homestead or eBay?
Regards,
WACA Life Member #6284 - Specializing in Pre-64 Winchester .22 Rimfire
November 7, 2015
Offline
If you ordered it from Homestead shoot them an e-mail or give them a call. They ship pretty quickly if the item is in stock. Good folks!
Mike
Homestead – 3 emails, 2 phone msgs, 2 texts, 0 replys
CC has been charged $4 for screw $6.70 for shipping.
Is this normal for them, or did something fall through the cracks?
Regards
Don
‘
November 7, 2015
Offline
[email protected] said
Homestead – 3 emails, 2 phone msgs, 2 texts, 0 replysCC has been charged $4 for screw $6.70 for shipping.
Is this normal for them, or did something fall through the cracks?
Regards
Don
‘
Not normal. Small company so a backlog or other issue is possible.
Mike
[Image Can Not Be Found]
I’m back.
The tang screw arrived shortly after my last post, but I wasn’t at home so I’m now catching up.
I’ve tried to post a couple of photo’s. so if they appear this will be a bit clearer. The screw doesn’t reach the bottom tang hole. I appears that the lower tang is sprung out from it’s normal position and I think I see how that happened. Someone welded the mainspring and it looks to me like it heated the lower tang enough to warp it from it’s normal position. At least that’s my guess.
Now to get it back where it belongs!
Well I’ve got this 3 pound hammer – nah – just kidding.
I would appreciate suggestions on how to do this, or who can do it properly for me. I’m in no hurry, and I want to avoid any further damage.
Suggestions, comments, please and thank you!
Don[Image Can Not Be Found]
The pic on the left isn’t completely accurate, the screw head must not have been seated in the countersink, it does touch the lower tang but would require pressure on the tang to catch a thread. I expect this how the original screw got bunged up.
The pic on the right shows the blob of weld or brazing material on the mainspring – I think.
If you can get a longer screw you may be able to get it pulled in? Another idea is to use a padded clamp and pull it together enough to get the screw started. What ever you do, do it slowly. If you get too much pressure let it sit for awhile then try some more later. The tang can bend I just don’t know how much??
You need to have the wood on when you try this.
I know you will get some feed back.
Thanks for your suggestions cwachter!
I started with a gentler attempt to begin with. I wrapped the tangs with surgical tubing wrapped fairly tightly. I’ve used this to close cracks in butt-stocks with good results in the past. My initial result is a 0.056 inch improvement – almost enough to catch a thread. I’ll let it rest for awhile and see if the constant gentle pressure moves the tangs more.
Update to come.
OK – I measured again and it has closed another 10 thousands. I caught the screw and drew it in another 20 thousands but I’m in no hurry so I’ll let that rest. I think I’m about half way there, but I’m leaving the tubing on until I next check it, then I’ll install the stock.
When you try again with the wood on don’t be surprise that the tangs have sprung back open. Use a padded clamp instead of the tubing. The tangs have to be parallel to get the screw to align properly. Using a clamp takes the pressure off the screw/threads.
Thanks cwachter!
I removed the tubing with the screw still installed, snugged up a c-clamp with some leather pads for protection and removed the screw, installed the stock and alternately gently screwed the tang screw in and then snugged up the c-clamp that is about halfway up the tang in an effort to keep a more even pressure on the tang. I know you are all probably laughing at the production I’m making of this. but I have a history!! The rifle is 120 years old and I don’t want to be to moron who breaks it.
I didn’t tighten the screw fully yet, its close, but it was getting to require more force than I was comfortable with – I’ll let it sit the way it is for awhile and finish the final couple of turns or so later.
I was once told by an old machinist that he had never seen anyone break a 3/8 inch easy out before – and didn’t believe I was only using a small wrench. I was 20 then, I’m 68 now with a long trail of broken stuff behind me!
Thanks for the suggestions everyone. This Winchester is growing on me. I might become a Winchester guy when I grow up.
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