(Guess I’m on a shim kick–Part II.) (–and I do have a third and fouth shim topic regarding my Great-grandfather’s ’73, but that is a future thread.)
The first Marble’s tang sight I shimmed was with a plastic drinking straw–I was out shooting in the mountains with few options for use as a shim–seemed about the correct thickness. It worked so well I didn’t disturb the piece of straw.
I’m thinking I was lucky in using the correct width under the other sights I shimmed in the same way.
Buuuuut–the last one I shimmed, seems I cut the straw too narrow for the purpose. The sight and lock piece bump forward with the rifle’s recoil and stick there. The narrow shim has lifted the center of the sight just enough to allow the lock piece to move forward and beneath the base of the sight–beyond where it is designed to stop. Looks and feels as if the straw should be wider to act as a bearing surface for the sliding lock piece. When stuck, a little fiddling will free the sight and it is good to go for another shot or to be laid/locked down more horizontally.
The old instruction sheet accompanying old Marble’s tang sights suggests using paper or cardboard. A thin piece of cardboard soaked with oil is what I learned somewhere is what used to suffice. Is that the best? Is there a better, modern material for shimming these sights?
Is there a width measurement that will ensure proper functioning of the sliding lock lever?
I’d guess some of you are wondering why I just don’t remove and measure the plastic from one of the sights that are functioning properly. I could. I just prefer to not monkey with the sights when they are dead-on. And since I’ll be working with a few other rifles/sights, I thought I could use your suggestions to “Do it right the first time!” with them, if there is a right material and width.
A drinking straw is pretty thin. I’m not sure if they make a gasket material that thin or not. I would have to check at an auto parts store. Some I’ve used in the past was about the thickness of a playing card. It was bulk stock that came in sheets and you would cut out your own gaskets.
Don
You can use anything that is the right thickness. a business card will work, just soak it with a little oil.
Bob
WACA Life Member--- NRA Life Member---- Cody Firearms member since 1991 Researching the Winchester 1873's
Email: [email protected]
JWM94, nice photo. Thank you.
I’ll check the ’94 that has the problem shim. If it doesn’t touch the screws, I’ll cut a bit larger one. As it is, if it does touch the threads, I’ll experiment with cutting a piece with a slight tongue between the screws to support the locking piece.
Another question: Do you folks find century-old oil-soaked cardboard/paper shims still properly functioning on rifles?
And more: As to rusting: I assume the oil soaked shim would not allow the adjoining metal to rust. Would a plastic shim allow the metal to corrode?
The plastic would not absorb water like paper will so it would not be as big of a problem. If you took the gun out hunting and it got wet you would want to dry it out and put some oil on it as soon as possible either way. I have found only paper/cardboard under tang sights and it has done the job for over 100 years.
Bob
WACA Life Member--- NRA Life Member---- Cody Firearms member since 1991 Researching the Winchester 1873's
Email: [email protected]
1 Guest(s)
