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Recently I bought a 1949 vintage 30-06. The metal, except for the barrel, is respectable while the wood is dinged with only traces of finish remaining. I would like to clean up this rifle as my “Golden Years” hunting rifle.
Wood condition seems to be calling for at least a light sanding then I thought of using John Kay’ oil to provide some protection. This sounds simple but I’m worried that a light sanding might cause an uneven or scratchy finish and that John Kay’s finish might not be right for the rifle.
I’d sure like some advice before I begin, I don’t want to do Bubba’s work.
Thank you.
Bill Sturcke - Retired - Ponca City, Oklahoma
November 7, 2015
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Bill-
A few pics would be helpful but IMHO sanding is pretty much a last resort for a collectable 70. I’ve used steel wool several times but have never been happy with the results the few times I sanded a stock. Thank goodness they weren’t collector rifles.
Mike
I’ll certainly post photos with hopes of capturing the condition of the stock…the exterior of the barrel isn’t very bad but the bore has rust and has been neglected. I’m thinking that in this case, as well as whenever anyone wants to refurbish or otherwise change an old, “collectable” gun, there is always the question: How far should I go before I ruin this gun.
Regardless of their status, I wouldn’t consider refinishing a stock or re-blueing the barrel of any good, original Model 1873 or other “historic” gun in my collection. I suppose the same should be true for the Model 70 but can a line be drawn? Is there a definable condition that, when reached, will render the firearm not collectable? Should I assume that this point is reached whenever any alteration is made or condition falls below a certain point? This is why I’m asking for advice in this forum, I respect the Model 70, especially pre 64s with their mystique but I’d truly like to give this one an acceptable makeover.
Thank you
Bill Sturcke - Retired - Ponca City, Oklahoma
Bill, Have you shot it yet? If it groups it’s still collectable, even if the bore is not perfect. T/R
No, haven’t shot it. Depending on the game, I’ll post some pictures tonight.
Bill Sturcke - Retired - Ponca City, Oklahoma
These photos might help. I hope it doesn’t look too good….lol
I look forward to moments and advice. Thank you.
Bill Sturcke - Retired - Ponca City, Oklahoma
Bill, You can’t hurt the wood with Liquid Gold, try rubbing the wood with Original Liquid Gold. It’s made by Scotts and available in any hardware store, used on furniture. Do not use lemon scented, it hurts case colors. Repeated usage darkens wood and makes scratches disappear. I use it on my model 70’s after a hunting trip. T/R
Do you believe the Liquid Gold will yield as durable a finish with good color as John Kay’s finish?
Bill Sturcke - Retired - Ponca City, Oklahoma
Bill, No, but it looks good and is easily reapplied. I use it on the entire gun on a sheep skin, just like oil. It’s not a refinish, maybe your gun is past it. I like a honest looking gun even if it is of lesser condition. It won’t look redone. In my world redone is not collectable. T/R
Do the photos indicate that this rifle is all original?
As you can probably tell, I was hoping this rifle would be appropriate to redo. I might need to sell it for something less that still fits the bill.
I understand your world where collectable should be original.
Bill Sturcke - Retired - Ponca City, Oklahoma
Bill, I can’t tell from the photos. It’s your gun and what you decide to do is up to you, but strictly from a value stand point money spent on restoring will not be recovered in a future sale. T/R
Just wipe it down and use it, it’s a well used Standard Rifle in the most common caliber….
If you can’t convince them, confuse them
November 5, 2014
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Hi Bill-
From your photos it appears that the wood either got wet or was intentionally stripped of the sprayed on lacquer finish. The wood pores are unfilled, so maybe something like oven cleaner used to remove a damaged finish? FWIW the end of the pistol grip has been sanded on and the fixed sling swivels have been replaced with detachable studs. All in all, a well-used classic hunting rifle with no collector value. Thus, you cannot go wrong refinishing it and putting it back to work in the field.
The original finish processes used at the factory are tedious, difficult to replicate, and will still be prone to flaking (like the original) if it gets wet. First the wood was stained, then a filler applied to fill the pores in the grain, then two coats of sprayed on lacquer, then checkering cut, then a final lacquer coat.
If it were my gun, I think I’d just finish stripping off any remaining traces lacquer finish, stain it if you want the darker color, and finish it with something like Tru-Oil that will put finish in the wood rather than on top of it. It’ll look good and withstand the weather much better. That’s what I did with the 1950 vintage .30 GOV’T’06 M70 Standard rifle I take deer hunting, only I didn’t stain it (so the wood is a lighter natural walnut color) and I did re-point the checkering.
Best of luck with the project. 
Lou
WACA 9519; Studying Pre-64 Model 70 Winchesters
Almost any type of oil will soak in and make the wood look better. Boiled linseed oil applied over a few days will fit the bill. If you want more sheen add a little Tru Oil to the linseed oil for the final coat. I’m sure the John Kay oil will work too. Again you may have to add something like Tru Oil for sheen on the final coat. It is amazing what hand rubbing linseed oil can do for sheen. You have to rub it until you are generating heat.
I appreciate all of your comments. This gun was purchased cheap and incomplete so I wouldn’t feel too bad about altering a great rifle. My conscience made me post the basic plan on this forum, I’m happy to have done this.
I’ve decided to actually start having some work done on this old gal to make her my new hunting rifle. (I’m certainly not expecting to get even a penny for her in the end). I’ll post a couple more photos soon and in a few months or so I’ll post photos of the finished rifle. I hope you will all agree that her remake is honorable.
Thanks for your thoughts.
P.S. Repointing the checkering; a good thought. Do I need any special tools?
Bill Sturcke - Retired - Ponca City, Oklahoma
November 5, 2014
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Hi Bill-
Since the pattern is already laid out you can use about any 60 degree (triangular) needle file, although a riffler intended for checkering (like this) is handier:
Main things you need are patience and good eyesight. A magnifying light (or Opti-Visor) and a checkering cradle come in handy too if you’re going to do much of it!!! 
Best,
Lou
WACA 9519; Studying Pre-64 Model 70 Winchesters
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