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I would like to recommend using Gorilla Glue for repairing cracks in stocks and forends. I have repaired a couple of buttstocks with tangs cracks on each sides without using pins or screws and each one was a practically invisible repair afterwards. The key to using Gorilla Glue is to spritz the crack with water before and after applying the glue. Gorilla Glue is cured by water. A lot of people to do know this. Open the crack as wide as possible and inject the Gorilla glue, clamp, and let dry overnight. Wipe off as mush access glue as you can after the crack is closed and before it cures. The beauty of Gorilla glue is that it expands as it cures, forcing the glue into the joint and pores of the wood. Once dry, I just scrape flush with a razor blade and touch up with a little gun stock oil. After many shots, I see no sign of the cracks opening up. I wish I had taken a before and after picture but, below is the after on my 1897 repair. It is impossible to see on either side. Give it a try next time!
Have you ever tried the Gorilla Glue repair on an 1885 High Wall buttstock with the typical splits at the wrist? I’m curious as to whether the repair is strong enough to withstand the shock of repeated recoils.
"This is the West, sir. When the legend becomes fact, print the legend."
No. Ive only repaired the wrist cracks on a 94 30/30 and a 1897. I will say that. I took 2 walnut blocks and glued them together using the Gorilla glue and tried to split the seem open with a chisel the next day. I was able to separate the blocks but the glue joint held stronger than the surrounding wood. I could not split the glue joint.
Cliff said
No. Ive only repaired the wrist cracks on a 94 30/30 and a 1897. I will say that. I took 2 walnut blocks and glued them together using the Gorilla glue and tried to split the seem open with a chisel the next day. I was able to separate the blocks but the glue joint held stronger than the surrounding wood. I could not split the glue joint.
Thanks for that insight. I have a couple of 1885 stocks with the usual wrist split. If I can get them degreased to my satisfaction I will try the Gorilla Glue repair as you described. I’ve used Titebond III on low recoil Low Walls in the past with satisfactory results, but the cracks have never been the kind that have split up into the finished part of the stock, just the wrist area under the tangs.
"This is the West, sir. When the legend becomes fact, print the legend."
I used mineral spirits to de-grease both of mine. Seem to work very well. Good luck and please report back with your results!
Ive always used Super Glue to repair stock cracks, It works in the same way as gorilla glue, a little dampness helps it bond stronger. I once took an old stock that was cracked at the wrist and glued with super glue, submerged in a bucket of water for 3 or 4 days and took it out to see what would happen and if I could split the repaired crack but it held solid.
Have to try gorilla glue. As you mentioned it expands, thats the only thing thats kept me from using it, was afraid of how much would expand out of the joint. Super glue has its downsides too, it will remove finish off of wood so you have to be careful in applying to only the inside of the crack and then clamp. touch up as needed in most cases.
1892takedown @sbcglobal.net ......NRA Endowment Life Member.....WACA Member
"God is great.....beer is good.....and people are crazy"... Billy Currington
I usually don’t buy guns with cracks but the few that I have tried to repair including chunks broke off at the toe of the butt I have had good luck with Titebond wood workers glue. Doesn’t expand like Gorilla glue but is easy to clean up and doesn’t hurt the finish. A good joint is stronger than the rest of the wood. I have had to prove this to several doubters when building furniture. Wood always broke first.
cwachter said
I usually don’t buy guns with cracks but the few that I have tried to repair including chunks broke off at the toe of the butt I have had good luck with Titebond wood workers glue. Doesn’t expand like Gorilla glue but is easy to clean up and doesn’t hurt the finish. A good joint is stronger than the rest of the wood. I have had to prove this to several doubters when building furniture. Wood always broke first.
Titebond III is excellent when the wood is well degreased and if it is clamped properly for at least an overnight.
"This is the West, sir. When the legend becomes fact, print the legend."
Titebond II or III are for outdoors and resist water. Any of the 3 will work on a collector gun. The weakest, Titebond, has a strength of about 3,600 psi. Titebond III has a strength of 4,000 psi. II is in the middle.
All of the glues mentioned above will make a strong repair. My main issues with Gorilla glue are the color and it sometimes develops porosity when it expands.
I use clear 2-part epoxy for all of my repairs and then tint the epoxy when mixing to match the grain color of the stock. As with Cliff’s Gorilla glue method, prior to full cure, I scrape of any minor excess with a razor blade held perpendicular to the stock and then touch up the finish. It makes a truly hard to see repair and I trust the epoxy strength and weather resistance above all other methods.
I am sure all of us have a pet method and product for repairs and most of them work fine, to each his own.
Best Regards,
WACA Life Member #6284 - Specializing in Pre-64 Winchester .22 Rimfire
JWA said
I use clear 2-part epoxy for all of my repairs and then tint the epoxy when mixing to match the grain color of the stock. As with Cliff’s Gorilla glue method, prior to full cure, I scrape of any minor excess with a razor blade held perpendicular to the stock and then touch up the finish. It makes a truly hard to see repair and I trust the epoxy strength and weather resistance above all other methods.
I like the idea of using epoxy but have been concerned about which one to use. Some will set in 5 minutes, which to me sounds like they won’t spread into the very fine splintered area within the cracks in the wood. Others take longer to set but I’ve been concerned about them running out of the crack and onto the finish. Which one do you use?
"This is the West, sir. When the legend becomes fact, print the legend."
All of the methods and glues probably work just fine. The reason I like the Gorilla is the expansion and no chance of coming loose due to heat or moisture. If a seam is visible after scraping, I mix some lacquer and aniline dye and drip into the seam to fill and mask it. Might have to add a little stock oil on top of that to completely conceal it. It doesnt take much Gorilla glue to make the repair. Took much, and you might have a mess after the expansion.
Cliff said
All of the methods and glues probably work just fine. The reason I like the Gorilla is the expansion and no chance of coming loose due to heat or moisture. If a seam is visible after scraping, I mix some lacquer and aniline dye and drip into the seam to fill and mask it. Might have to add a little stock oil on top of that to completely conceal it. It doesnt take much Gorilla glue to make the repair. Took much, and you might have a mess after the expansion.
The only negative I have about Gorilla Glue is that every bottle of the stuff I’ve ever bough has ended up solidifying in the bottle before I could use it all. I seldom have ever gotten 1/4 of the glue used.
"This is the West, sir. When the legend becomes fact, print the legend."
Wincacher said
I like the idea of using epoxy but have been concerned about which one to use. Some will set in 5 minutes, which to me sounds like they won’t spread into the very fine splintered area withing the cracks in the wood. Others take longer to set but I’ve been concerned about them running out of the crack and onto the finish. Which one do you use?
I use Devcon 30 minute epoxy. I open the crack as far as possible and give the epoxy a chance to run down inside then close and clamp the crack. After wiping off the excess epoxy I let it set up for the 30-45 minutes then do the razor blade scrape (if necessary) and then let it set for a full 24 hour cure.
I tint the mixed epoxy with a drop of Testor’s enamel hobby paint (does not take much). I start with basic brown then add a little black if I need to darken it up. It does not seem to noticeably affect the strength of the epoxy.
Before you tackle a repair, mix up a few small batches to get the hang of tinting it. You will be pleasantly surprised at the results. I have been using that method for 30 years and have never had a joint failure.
Best Regards,
WACA Life Member #6284 - Specializing in Pre-64 Winchester .22 Rimfire
Thanks. I have 2 tiny tubes of brown and black epoxy tints that came with a Wheeler Bedding Kit that should work perfectly with repair epoxy. Will try this next time I have a split stock repair project.
"This is the West, sir. When the legend becomes fact, print the legend."
From a fellow member on another forum who specializes in antique restoration, hide glue was recommended. Has been around for centuries. Just a thought.
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