Im no expert on the wood finishing department but have done a bit of it years ago.  Especially on decent guns that have already been messed with by someone adding coats of varnish and such–for those I used Formbys Furniture Refinisher to strip the varnish and try to leave the original stain.  If you take all the color out of the wood and start over you can strip it and soak it in water for a couple days to get the color and excess oil out.

To stain, I used a combination of stains including red oak, golden pecan, special walnut, early american, and a few others, usually mixing them together or sometimes adding one layer of stain at a time.  Have also used Birchwood Casey Tru-oil, either alone or in addition to stains.  Once you get the stain color where you want it I put on a coat boiled lindseed oil and let it dry.  Once dry I would take a cloth and dip it into the boiled lindseed oil and dab on ground pumice to wipe down the stock to take down any excess, then repeat multiple times.  Its a little bit faster application and more durable finish if you use a tung oil instead of boiled lindseed oil, then buff down with the pumice or rottenstone, and build up the finish. 

Everyone has their own ways.  As far as the color goes, its hard to replicate Winchesters stain colors, but if you take 20 guns and line them out you will see there is a lot of variations in the colors from the factory dependent on the wood and stain formula used.

The biggest factor in refinishing wood is not to round any of the edges.  Its a dead giveaway and detracts when you do.

BTW, if you could forward the info on you TD I would like to add it to my TD survey.  If its as early a TD as you say, I probably wouldnt do anything to the wood.

Chris

1892takedown said
Im no expert on the wood finishing department but have done a bit of it years ago.  Especially on decent guns that have already been messed with by someone adding coats of varnish and such–for those I used Formbys Furniture Refinisher to strip the varnish and try to leave the original stain.  If you take all the color out of the wood and start over you can strip it and soak it in water for a couple days to get the color and excess oil out.

To stain, I used a combination of stains including red oak, golden pecan, special walnut, early american, and a few others, usually mixing them together or sometimes adding one layer of stain at a time.  Have also used Birchwood Casey Tru-oil, either alone or in addition to stains.  Once you get the stain color where you want it I put on a coat boiled lindseed oil and let it dry.  Once dry I would take a cloth and dip it into the boiled lindseed oil and dab on ground pumice to wipe down the stock to take down any excess, then repeat multiple times.  Its a little bit faster application and more durable finish if you use a tung oil instead of boiled lindseed oil, then buff down with the pumice or rottenstone, and build up the finish. 

Everyone has their own ways.  As far as the color goes, its hard to replicate Winchesters stain colors, but if you take 20 guns and line them out you will see there is a lot of variations in the colors from the factory dependent on the wood and stain formula used.

The biggest factor in refinishing wood is not to round any of the edges.  Its a dead giveaway and detracts when you do.

BTW, if you could forward the info on you TD I would like to add it to my TD survey.  If its as early a TD as you say, I probably wouldnt do anything to the wood.

Chris  

Please send pictures before you do any work.  Maybe a little touch up is all that it needs.

I like every thing Chris said.  I usually mix one of Chris’ oil based stains with some mahogany.  The mid level walnut color usually needs some red that the mahogany will add.  Repeated coats of finish will fill the wood and get the piano finish.  Some type of sanding or using pumice between coats is required.  Shellac is a very good seal coat after the staining.  One of the best restorers around used an alcohol based stain he had made special order.  You can also mix a little Tru Oil with the boiled linseed oil to get the gloss.  Tung oil has a varnish in it already.  Have fun.

I live in Cal. too.  Antiques do not require a 10 day wait or a back ground check.  You must be dealing with someone out of state or is overly cautious.

Kirk Fitzgerald said
Thanks for all the input. I learned a lot. And for the record you all have successfully talked me out of refinishing the wood. A slow and methodical cleaning with 0000 steal wool and turpentine is doing an OK job bringing out the grain. Six hours into the cleaning and maybe half of the butt stock is done.

To Chris and 2bit,

I will send you the data and some photo’s when I got the rifle cleaned up. It was not abused but it was not really cared fore either; very dirty. Also some things I want to talk to you about then that are a bit strange about this gun.

To cwacher,

Oh contrair mis amigo! Our freedom loving state has a little known clause that slightly change the federal statutes. You are correct probably 98% of the time about antique guns not having to be sent to an FFL dealer or requiring a 10 day waiting period and a background check. Here is the catch: If the antique firearm still has ammunition currently available in normal ammunition channels it is not treated as an antique. My 92 is a Cal 38-40. And of course our beloved  state takes another cut at sucking away more of your money. Sorry to hear you live here. Have a Plan B.

Cheers to all

Kirk  

It’s best for Bert to jump in here too.  I believe that the Federal law has such a clause too.  I have never heard of anyone trying to use this to determine the status of whether the gun is antique or not.  I stand by my comments about the person you are dealing with.  Glad to hear you are not destroying the gun.  A refinish can sometimes be corrected.