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I know nothing about nitre bluing. Does it look like the bluing that is on old Winchester parts or is it a different color and sheen? Also can I get opinions on the best cold bluing solution? Thanks for help. Peter
Van’s Instant Cold Blue does a very nice job on very clean metal when applied in multiple coats, until the desired color is achieved.
Also claims to work on oily or greasy steel but I prefer to clean the metal thoroughly first.
"This is the West, sir. When the legend becomes fact, print the legend."
Brown’s Oxpho-Blue has worked well as far as cold blues go. It doesn’t require a pristine surface, it even goes through a thin film of oil and surface rust not completely cleaned off. I have found it to be the best given it is also available in a cream which stays where you apply it. Follow the directions and you will have good results.
Remember, different steels react differently. That’s why there are different bluing solutions on my shelves. However, rust bluing is so easy and gives great results for big jobs, I only cold blue injuries.
Vince
Southern Oregon
NRA member
Fraternal Order of Eagles
“There is but one answer to be made to the dynamite bomb and that can best be made by the Winchester rifle.”
Teddy Roosevelt
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Vince said
I have found it to be the best given it is also available in a cream which stays where you apply it.
Have found color “takes” more evenly on small parts like sights by heating them up slightly and submerging them in the liquid. Still, even doing it that way doesn’t produce the durability of nitre bluing.
So Clarence, can you buff nitre bluing down a bit to match an aged screw or to almost put it in the white? Thanks for help, Peter
Eagle said
So Clarence, can you buff nitre bluing down a bit to match an aged screw or to almost put it in the white?
Sure–in fact that’s just what I did to make the re-nitre blued trigger guard on a 52 match the original blue of the brl & rcvr.
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