
I’ve recently become afflicted with the 1873 Winchester bug. I’ve already picked up two in 38-40; an 1886 production and an 1889 production. The problem is the bores. The ’86 is bad enough that bullets that manage to hit a 25 yd. target do so sideways. The ’89 model isn’t quite as bad, but fouls terrible with black powder.
Can anyone recommend someone to line these barrels? I kind of hate to do it, but I’ve never been much on owning firearms that can’t be shot.
Also, does registering for the forum require joining the collectors association?
Thanks in advance.
Hello,
Registering on the Forum does not require that you become a full WACA member, but we certainly encourage you to join and become a WACA member (for the great benefits).
In regards to shooting your 38 W.C.F. chambered Model 1873 rifles, what type of bullet are you using, and what diameter is it? Are you aware that the 38 WCF (a.k.a. 38-40) uses a .40 caliber bullet? If you are using a soft cast bullet, I recommend trying a copper jacketed bullet. Often times a jacketed bullet will shoot just fine in a rough bore. Additionally, have you considered shooting smokeless powder? There are a number of different powders available that perfectly emulate black powder pressure & velocity, and they are much easier to clean-up. Additionally, you can purchase modern factory loaded ammo that is loaded with smokeless and is perfectly safe to shoot in your old Winchesters. Look for the “Cowboy” marked ammo.
Bert
WACA Historian & Board of Director Member #6571L

Thanks for the reply.
I guess I’m a little slow but I cannot find where/how to register.
I am aware of the groove diameter of a 38-40. The first hundred bullets I loaded and fired were commercial cast 180 gr. .401″ bullets. These shot pretty well in the ’89. Now I have a couple hundred soft cast, 190 gr. bullets that measure .400″ and are designed to be loaded over black powder. I have a bullet mould ordered.
The barrel of the ’86 production is a lost cause. A .400″ bullet will drop out of sight in the muzzle. I suspect someone running a cleaning rod in and out of the muzzle ruined it.
I would like to compete in CAS or NCOWS with the rifles and do so.shooting black powder. I’m aware if the possibilities of using jacketed bullets but I already cast for everything I own so am well set up. I have fired loads with smokeless powder and they short quite well, like I said I want the option to shoot BP.
Thanks!
I agree with Bert that you should be able to get those rough bore 38’s to shoot with Jacketed bullets and smokeless. The Win factory jacketed in white box are very mild and very accurate in all my 7 38’s rifles . I also find it much easier to get accuracy out of a 32 or a 38 with a wide variety of cast Jacketed and variety of smokeless choices ( Idont shoot black ) than a frustrating 44. Ive never had a 38 that wouldnt shoot well and never had reason to sell one. Ive sold 44’s out of frustration ( a 73 RBR with OK bore was awful accuracy ) I was just shooting a 44 a few minutes ago with new barrel that I would sell right now tried several loads again , although its a nice looking restored early 92 takedown
I recently got a OBR half mag 73 in 38 (1887) good bore , and it has most holes touching @ 50 yds (only used Win factory so far) I buy Win Factory jacketed at about $50 Canadian or less wherever I see it (box of 50)
There are lots of cheap plentiful and accurate 10/mm 40 cal pistol bullets out there 180 gr .401 size hasn been good for me
Good luck
Phil
35Whelen:
I just found out the other day about the business at the following link relines barrels: http://www.redmansrifling.com/relining_prices.
Good luck.
James
Relining a barrel so it can’t be detected cost some money. You have to start with a thick liner so it can be welded in rather than glued in. It gets welded at both ends and then rechambered. I know of one gunsmith that will take a used barrel with good rifling and turn it into a liner otherwise the new rifling is a dead giveaway of a relined barrel. What configuration is the barrel that you want relined? You might find a replacement barrel cheaper.
Bob
WACA Life Member--- NRA Life Member---- Cody Firearms member since 1991 Researching the Winchester 1873's
Email: [email protected]
Round barrel or octagon?
The 38 should of had caliber marks in 86, What is the serial number? I don’t know about changing one to 44, they used different frames.
Bob
WACA Life Member--- NRA Life Member---- Cody Firearms member since 1991 Researching the Winchester 1873's
Email: [email protected]
1873man said
Round barrel or octagon?
The 38 should of had caliber marks in 86, What is the serial number? I don’t know about changing one to 44, they used different frames.
Bob
They’re both octagon. The serial number on the older rifle is 216xxx. I looked again and can BARELY make out a “38” on the rear of the barrel, but the carrier is definitely unmarked. I looked at this rifle a little closer and I’m thinking that it possibly was refinished. The finish looks sort of gray like cold blue and the metal, especially on the barrel, is suspiciously smooth as though it was sanded at some point.
The elevator probable was marked but if the barrel is worn or refinished to the point the caliber is about gone the elevator would disappear quicker since its softer. Just to verify you do have a 38, is there a step on the top of the frame where the barrel screws in. A 38 shell will cycle and fire in a 44 gun but rattle down the barrel
Bob
WACA Life Member--- NRA Life Member---- Cody Firearms member since 1991 Researching the Winchester 1873's
Email: [email protected]
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