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It is enough to make you cry, but I am in possession of a first year, 4 digit serial number Model 1892 in .38-40 that is beautiful.
Unfortunately Bubba got to it at some point and cut a large notch in the bolt by the hammer, I assume to put in some kind of sight. It cycles, and supposedly shoots. Worse still is he drilled two holes on the left side of the receiver and drilled out the hole for the screw that holds the bolt pin in place. So if you shoot it yo have to keep tapping the bolt pin back in pace.
I had an experienced gunsmith tell me it wasn’t worth fixing and to sell it for parts. But I’m stubborn.
I know it isn’t worth what I paid for it, but I would like to at least make it a shooter. My questions are — can any bolt of the period be used or must it be a replacement in the same caliber? I can get an 1890’s small caliber vintage bolt at a reasonable price. My second question is: Can a good gunsmith make screws for the odd shaped tapped holes to fill them in or is the wall of the receiver too thin? Would it be easier to just try to find another receiver somewhere? Again, does it have to be caliber-specific? I’m not trying to fool anybody, just enjoy the beautiful rifle.
I obviously don’t know anything about Winchesters, and it was an expensive-lesson impulse buy. Advice needed and appreciated.
The bolts are somewhat caliber specific, the 38-40 and 44-40 are interchangeable, the 25-20 and 32-20 are interchangeable. It would take too much work to make a smaller caliber work for a larger caliber.
A good gunsmith should be able to make a custom screw for your 1892
V/R
Mike
Mike is right about the bolt. You need to get another one that came off an 1882 large caliber as the cartridge rim on the 38-40 and 44-40 are the same but larger than the 25-20 and 32-20. eBay has them all the time. Your ejector components and firing pin will interchange with a replacement bolt.
As to the screw holes on the receiver, the 1892 has a very strong receiver and you should be able to fire it without any problem. The two holes on the side are most likely standard sight threads and should easily be filled with standard sight hole plug screws. These usually are 6-48 or 8-40 threads and available a Brownell’s and Midway USA plus many other sources. The positive stop plug screws give a nice finished look to a permanent fill-in job.
As to the Finger Lever Pin Hole, just thread it with a tap for the new size and fill it with appropriate plug screw, preferably a positive stop plug screw.
Good luck and post your results when done with a photo if you can.
"This is the West, sir. When the legend becomes fact, print the legend."
Many thanks guys. I really appreciate the responses. I found a bolt on Ebay that came off a large caliber 1892, but is rusty. I’m wavering on picking it up and using some kroil and 000 steel wool on it or waiting for a better example. Your suggestions are really helpful. I’m off to Brownell’s…
I’d wait for a bolt to come up that has a similar finish to your 1892. eBay seems to have a new listing about once a week.
Good luck.
"This is the West, sir. When the legend becomes fact, print the legend."
Thanks again. I’ll try to be patient. As long as I know now that bolts come along from time to time. The current bolt works, it is just unsightly. The gun has a nice patina throughout, and except for a small, old chip on the left side of the stock high up near the upper tang, the furniture is in great shape. When I get this where I want it, I’ll join and post pictures.
here are a few photos…
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w101/pmhnp/Win/1892leftreceiver.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w101/pmhnp/Win/1892fulllength.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w101/pmhnp/Win/1892rightstock.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w101/pmhnp/Win/1892rightside.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w101/pmhnp/Win/1892leftstock.jpg
and the bolt. Difficult to see but the bolt was notched just in front of the hammer and behind the lugs…
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w101/pmhnp/Win/50d68365-97c9-429e-900c-41a20f73820b.jpg
November 19, 2014
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I could not see the receiver where it was notched could you show a close-up so we can see it Please. I have work on some of these and many time you can get parts that can be fitted. Just got a 1920’s botl lock off Ebay. With a little work got it to work…… PM me or just Email me. I also have Skype os you could show me the parts on real time. Good luck,
Tony Carrier in Portland, Oregon Area
[email protected]
Tony Carrier said
I could not see the receiver where it was notched could you show a close-up so we can see it Please. I have work on some of these and many time you can get parts that can be fitted. Just got a 1920’s botl lock off Ebay. With a little work got it to work…… PM me or just Email me. I also have Skype os you could show me the parts on real time. Good luck,
I’m sorry, I dropped the rifle off at the gunsmith yesterday. It is hard to see on the bolt picture, but the notch is just in front of the hammer. I’ll need to replace the bolt at some point. The receiver has holes, not a notch. I’m going to order a set of outside and inside screws, and the smith is going to make up a custom screw for the one big hole. He thinks he may have some original screws in a drawer somewhere in good shape that he will sell me. He said each drilled hole reduced the value by $1000 
Just an update. I found a complete bolt for large calibers with nice finish off an 1890’s ’92. In addition I got period screws that are not buggered. As a bonus on eBay I found a Lyman D tang sight with extremely little rust and correct patina, but the only tang sight screws I could find were new manufacture — no period sight screws. When I get it together I’ll post pics.
Definitely a labor of love rather than economics.
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