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Greetings,
This is my inaugural post on the forum. I have inherited my father’s Model ’94 .30-30.
It’s from 1970 – he still had the original receipt and warranty card as well as the serial number cut out from the box. It’s not a pre-64, but it’s the best Model ’94 on the planet to me because it was my dad’s. We shot it over the weekend and although it hadn’t been shot in some time, it’s still a tack driver.
I could go on, but I’ll get to my question. The bluing is in excellent condition and the stocks are too, but they do seem a bit “dry” and might benefit from some oil or conditioning of some sort. He told me to rub linseed oil on them.
Question #1 – I have no desire to alter the stocks in any way, I merely want to protect and preserve them. What is considered best practice for this?
Question #2 – Since the bluing is in great shape, how do I best maintain it and see to it that it stays that way?
Thank you in advance for any help and guidance you can offer.
If you use linseed oil on the wood make sure it is BOILED linseed oil. A couple times a year or more often if frequently used wipe the metal surfaces with a soft cloth and any kind of gun oil. I prefer Break Free CLP.
Chuck said
If you use linseed oil on the wood make sure it is BOILED linseed oil.
And cut 50/50 with turpentine or thinner, though how much absorption there will be through the lacquer finish is questionable. If that doesn’t produce the result you seek, try paste wax.
Scotts Liquid Gold, Spray it on a sheep skin pad and wipe it on wood and metal. You can use it on your furniture to. T/R
Thanks!
With the boiled linseed oil keep it a matte oiled finish, or will it cure to a hardened sheen?
Roland1911 said
Thanks!
With the boiled linseed oil keep it a matte oiled finish, or will it cure to a hardened sheen?
No sheen, esp. if you cut it as I suggested, which will promote absorption. Rub it back & forth as long as your arm holds out, but at the end, wipe it almost dry. As TR suggested, Scott’s is a good & easier alternative, though the effects may not be as long lasting.
Sounds good. Funny that the Scott’s is a legitimate option. And for the bluing it’s just a matter of keeping a bit of oil/CLP product on it? I use Frog Lube on my pistols (1911). Maybe a more “traditional” gun oil might be more suitable?
I finally got some pics. There are more if necessary. As you can see it’s about as Plain Jane of a Model 94 as they come, but I think she’s gorgeous!
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