Log In
Members
Home
Add Reply
Add Topic
Hi All,
It’s been a while since I posted anything new. Things have been a little hectic here on the ranch. I had an 1873 come to the shop with the hammer following the bolt down and thought it might be an interesting repair to share. I also added a brief overview of a wrist repair on an 1890 that belonged to the same guy. Thought it might be of value for those who were talking about a stock repair on a recent thread.
Currently busy getting ready for the Las Vegas Antique Arms/WACA West Coast Show. Hope to see some of you there. Mark
Mark,
Another Great educational video. Your talent is amazing. Thanks,
Al
May 3, 2020
Offline
Great video again ??
BASC member
November 7, 2015
Offline
Very enjoyable and educational video, Mark. Sorry about the equipment issue on the stock repair video, looks like it would have been very good as well. Safe travels to Vegas!
Mike
Thanks guys.
Chuck, I do have a couple of tables in the WACA section at the Vegas show. See you there. Mark
Mark,
I enjoyed your video. The explanation of the trigger geometry was educational. Thank you. T/R
TR said
Mark,I enjoyed your video. The explanation of the trigger geometry was educational. Thank you. T/R
You’re very welcome, Tom. It makes perfect sense once you see it drawn.
The tricky part is to get those angles cut just right without taking any more material off than necessary. I wear 2.5 power reading glasses under a jeweler’s loupe to be able to see what I’m doing when cutting notches. Mark
Great video Mark.
While you covered the cause of hammer drop on the 1873, there have been several who have posted from time to time regarding hammer drop on the 1892. Ive had several myself with that issue. The difference is that the half cock and full cock fully engage and there doesnt appear to be a problem with the sear or the notches. What ive found is that when the bolt pushes the hammer back, the hammer face is either worn and the bolt doesnt fully bear down on the hammer face to get the sear to the full cock position, or the rails on the receiver or bolt are worn and the bolt is allowed to ride a little higher over the top of the hammer causing it to not fully engage the full cock. Ive also seen where you could tighten the tang screw through the stock and it somehow eliminates the problem–however in any case, I usually swap out the hammer with a replacement and it solves the problem. Was wondering if you had any additional insight as to the root cause or fix.
Have not encountered a hammer drop issue with the 1894 but have seen at least one that had the face of the hammer built up (DST 38-55) for likely that reason.
1892takedown @sbcglobal.net ......NRA Endowment Life Member.....WACA Member
"God is great.....beer is good.....and people are crazy"... Billy Currington
Chris,
Good point. I should have mentioned that the cause of the hammer follow-down on the 1873 in this episode isn’t the only possible cause. I’ve got an 1890 in the shop that has enough wear that the bolt rocks up when cycled and doesn’t cock the hammer. When the action is open, the hammer can be cocked by pushing down on the back of the bolt. Thanks for pointing out my oversight. Mark
1 Guest(s)
