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BUSTED BUTT STOCKS ON OLD WINCHESTER RIFLES, 1894 SRC AND 1895
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November 14, 2019 - 10:58 pm
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Hi Winchester pals, I am in need of two replacement stocks for my small accumulation. I need to find where I might procure a used straight stock for an 1895 Winchester made in 1911 with a curved butt plate and a used stock for an 1894 SRC with a straight stock and curved butt plate. Both have broken, chipped or split wrists and are not servicable. Any help would be appreciated. THANK YOU, Mark “Dirty Doc” ZacharyConfusedConfused

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November 16, 2019 - 4:10 am
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The 1894 stock should be fairly easily located on gunbroker or Ebay. (check weekly)  Your chances of finding an original 1895 stock are pretty slim. Guessing you will have to have one made….  If it’s just the tang that is split and the crack doesn’t extend into the wrist, that’s a pretty easy fix. Best of luck in your quest.

 

Erin

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November 16, 2019 - 4:30 pm
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Try Homestead parts.  They usually have both stocks but run out of inventory from time to time so just keep trying them.

http://homesteadparts.com/shopcart/commerce.cgi?product=Winchester_1894&cart_id=1398437527.2383

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November 18, 2019 - 9:37 pm
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Rick Hill said
Try Homestead parts.  They usually have both stocks but run out of inventory from time to time so just keep trying them.

http://homesteadparts.com/shopcart/commerce.cgi?product=Winchester_1894&cart_id=1398437527.2383  

SmileSmileSmileSmileSmile  MANY THANKS, GUYS & GALS, I am contacting Homestead via E-mail and am plotting repairs to the 1895 and to the 1894 if I get it. On the 1895 stock, there is a chip off of the right front. The tang inlet is cracked/split almost back to the bolt hole. I am a lousy woodworker, but could figgure it out if I knew what kind of glue to use. I fixed a 100 year old pool table by using square carpet tacks to slightly spread the cracks, filled with ELMER’S PROFESSIONAL dark walnut glue and clamped the splits and cracks together with wood clamps for a week. Glue is no longer available, so I don’t know what to use. I also fixed the handguard and buttstock of an Australian L1-A1 that had been run over my a deuce & a half. Same stuff. NO PROBLEMS. Glue still unobtanium. I will scout E-bay & GunBroker for crappy looking wood ND BEG FOR ANY INPUT ON GLUes adhesives, epoxies, PC-47s, etc… again, THANK YOU ERIN & ROCK  

Erin Grivicich said
The 1894 stock should be fairly easily located on gunbroker or Ebay. (check weekly)  Your chances of finding an original 1895 stock are pretty slim. Guessing you will have to have one made….  If it’s just the tang that is split and the crack doesn’t extend into the wrist, that’s a pretty easy fix. Best of luck in your quest.

 

Erin  

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November 18, 2019 - 11:02 pm
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I don’t know of any pre stained glue but you could mix it yourself.  I like to add walnut sawdust to glue to make wood filler.  I prefer to use Titebond glue.  Don’t get hung up on all the different glues.  Even Elmer’s white glue is strong enough.  As far as using water resistant or water proof glue, I wouldn’t waste my money unless I was going to soak the wood in a bucket of water for long periods.  Once properly glued and an oil or other finish applied it will last longer than we will.  Glues that claim to fill voids are very porous when dry.  Take a sample and put a lump on a flat surface and let it dry.  Then cut it open it will look like the inside of a sponge.  I due use a thick type super glue for some delicate areas that you just can’t clamp.  It is applied with the supplied applicator brush.  Be careful with super glues and epoxies.  If you get them on your finish you will be out of luck.  Normal wood glue can be wiped off the finish with no harmful effects.

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March 7, 2021 - 8:34 pm
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I had a tree grower friend repair the 95 and 94. The 95 chip is minimized and the wood looks like new..Now I need to figger out how to best clean out the lead or copper fouling. I have the discontinued FOUL-OUT by Outers and about a gallon of the lead out and a couple stock bottles of the Copper out. With a 1911 30-40, which should I use to best clean it??? Thank you for your time, Dirty DocLaugh

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March 7, 2021 - 8:59 pm
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Clean the lead out first then the copper.  Use what you have.  After soaking use a brass brush to loosen then patches. Repeat if necessary.  Sweets 7.62 is a very good copper remover but make sure you follow the directions.  Don’t let this stuff soak for more than what the directions say.  If you have copper the patch will turn blue. Keep going until no blue.

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March 7, 2021 - 8:59 pm
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Hoppes #9 is what most folks use.

Bob

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March 8, 2021 - 3:44 pm
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 I use Hoppes #9. Run a wet patch thru the barrel and set the gun muzzle end down on a clean patch overnight. I repeat this until clean patch on the end of the barrel no longer has the green color. It sometimes takes several days to clean. On my model 70s it has to be done every 20 rounds. I’m sure there are better ways but I’m old school. T/R

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March 8, 2021 - 5:58 pm
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TR said
It sometimes takes several days to clean. On my model 70s it has to be done every 20 rounds. I’m sure there are better ways but I’m old school. T/R  

Sweets takes less than 15 minutes.  Why do you clean every 20 rounds? Do your shot groups spread or is it old school again?Laugh

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March 8, 2021 - 9:12 pm
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 Chuck,  I load my model 70s, a 300H&H and a 270 a little hot. They both are really accurate but I get a copper buildup in 20 rounds that increases group size at 200yds by 3″. During pre deer hunting sighting I don’t want to be showed up by someone with a new rifle. The guns are almost as old as I am. Yes Old School! T/R

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March 10, 2021 - 6:46 pm
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TR, I’d clean it too.  I clean my older guns most times I shoot them.  The target gun, I haven’t cleaned the barrel for about 250 rounds.  I will probably clean it this week.  Cleaning usually does not make my groups any better.

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March 12, 2021 - 4:52 pm
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TR said
 Chuck,  I load my model 70s, a 300H&H and a 270 a little hot. They both are really accurate but I get a copper buildup in 20 rounds that increases group size at 200yds by 3″. During pre deer hunting sighting I don’t want to be showed up by someone with a new rifle. The guns are almost as old as I am. Yes Old School! T/R  

Chuck, My wife and I shot High Power and had to strip out the jacket copper after each match. A Gunny taught me to anoint the bullets with Brownell’s Molybdinum bore paste after reloading or before firing. Worked wonders for cleanliness, velocity and accuracy. I kept a cleaning patch soaked with it to rub on the bullets before a match and kept in a green box…Dirty Doc

  

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