Life got in the way and I had a few other project to complete. I’ve continued to read on the forum and appreciate the folks who regularly contribute. I finally have a little time to focus on my circa 1898 Model 1894 I introduced here. As stated in the intro, there’s some functionality issues but I think they can be corrected. First, there’s a long ton of junk in the action. The bore is pretty dark with some pits but I think it can be cleaned up well enough to hunt this fall for its 120th anniversary.
The first think I noticed is the sear (or trigger) spring isn’t the same as what I thought it would be. It’s flat, actually kind of wavy and doesn’t have a hole, plus it is a bit narrower than the replacement I purchased from Homestead. Is this a previous repair or OEM? If original, is there a source for parts or do I need to make a similar spring?
I’ll follow up with pictures of the trigger notches and sear. I think they look ok but will know better once I clean things up a bit.
Regards,
Ron
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
WACA #10293
November 7, 2015
Good luck on the cleaning, hope everything comes out OK. To be honest I can’t recall what an early mainspring looks like but IIRC it looks like the one you bought from Homestead. The existing one may be an example of frontier gunsmithing but I’ll defer to more knowledgeable members for a better answer.
Mike
1892takedown @sbcglobal.net ......NRA Endowment Life Member.....WACA Member
"God is great.....beer is good.....and people are crazy"... Billy Currington
Chris- I have those parts on the right, although I’m searching for a good parts list so I can learn the correct names of the parts used in very early 1894s. This one is circa 1898.
Both parts were not in the gun as I disassembled and shame on me for not taking pictures as I took it apart. I normally do that but figured there’s so much on the web about 1894s, it didn’t really cross my mind.
Anyway referring to your picture above, on the right, the L-shaped (catch?) spring was installed in the gun but the straight (trigger?) spring was not- I bought it though from Homestead. Is it an either or thing or are they both installed? Hard to find videos on the old type II models .
The flat piece I pulled out in my photo at the top appears to have been installed between the mainspring and the inside of the tang, covering the strain screw. Based on wear marks and bends, it then appears to have laid under the catch pin and rested on top of the screw holding the trigger spring. Maybe a shim or something from days gone by?
Another odd thing about this gun that I didn’t notice until tonight is the lower tang itself. The stock screw doesn’t protrude through the tang. Instead, it is captured by a threaded piece attached to the interior of the tang:
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
WACA #10293
The way the two fit together is as shown below. Look at the length on the spring, it is possible, depending on how long yours is, to set that spring where it seats on the trigger on one end and just short of the spring screw on the other, using the safety block spring to hold it in place. Maybe it was just an old bush fix, Ive seen these springs break at the screw before. They still worked properly even though they were broke. The safety block spring wouldnt allow it to move much out of place.
You didnt mention it, but your lower tang is for a pistol grip rifle. If it were a standard straight grip the screw would pass through the lower tang. I couldnt get the mainspring out of mine but looks to be the same trigger spring and safety stop setup whether pistol grip or straight grip.
1892takedown @sbcglobal.net ......NRA Endowment Life Member.....WACA Member
"God is great.....beer is good.....and people are crazy"... Billy Currington
Got it. I appreciate the assist. Given the malfunction and this stray piece of flat steel in the action, I’m also guessing it was a field fix of some sort- it measures about 1 3/8″ long. There is no sign of a trigger spring being present for at least the last 70 years- judging on the crud and gunk buildup.
Good news is that after some preliminary cleaning, it looks as though the notches on the hammer and the edge of the sear are in good shape.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
WACA #10293
Well- I finally had a hole in my honey do list so I finished up this project. It’s all cleaned up and back together. I have 20 rounds loaded and with any luck, should run through live-fire function check tonight. The bore is dark and pitted so I’m hoping the gas checks might help the bore cleaning effort.. – Thanks for all your help!
BTW- that old flat spring was probably a DIY fix. There was also a piece of loading gate lodged in the innards. No wonder it was malfunctioning. It’s pretty tight now.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
WACA #10293
Well, before live firing I decided to make a dummy cartridge and cycle the round. Unfortunately, it didn’t work.
Seems as though the rib on the back of the loading gate is preventing the carrier from elevating all the way to the chamber. I took the loading gate out and the carrier operates as designed. I guess I’ll get a new, old one? Any idea as to why this is the way it is? The one that is present isn’t original to the gun so I suppose I could do some file work to correct the clearance. Thoughts? Pics:
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
WACA #10293
Before you try another loading gate, make sure you have the loading gate screw cinched down all the way, super tight. If that doesnt work it the spring may have too much curve to it and it doesnt flatten out enough to allow the carrier to pass.
1892takedown @sbcglobal.net ......NRA Endowment Life Member.....WACA Member
"God is great.....beer is good.....and people are crazy"... Billy Currington
Well- we’re closer to getting this old lever to run…. it seems as though I didn’t have the gate seated all the way as suggested. Now it binds when working the action because the link won’t stay seated in the receiver, I’ve determined the friction stud is rounded and the spring may be weak too. So, I’ve got those on order and waiting…
Meanwhile I got the circ. 1913, Model 94 SRC in 25-35 WIN out- punched the bore and reloaded some ammo so I could have fun on the 4th. 10/10 on steel plates from 80 yards- the bore is dark and pitted but it seems as though it’s still accurate enough to hunt the Piney Woods of southwest LA!
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
WACA #10293
November 7, 2015
Glad the 25-35 is working for you. A dark bore will never be a tack driver but they can surprise you.
Mike
Repaired the friction stud (broken spring inside) but still had an issue with the cycling. After slowly working the action, I determined the bottom of the bolt was hanging up on the top of the hammer- too much tension. I backed off the mainspring screw and it works as designed now…dry. I stuck a dummy cartridge in and I have feed problems. Suspecting the dummy dimensions weren’t quite right, I decided to seat a bullet in a case with no neck tension and then chamber it to get the OAL to fit the gun. To my surprise, the round chambered even with the bullet seated all the way out to the gas check. So, now I guess I’ll get some cerrosafe and cast the chamber to see that no one has re-chambered it to something weird. Hopefully its just a long leade/ throat/ freebore.
As Grandma used to say, “it’s always something”.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
WACA #10293
November 7, 2015
Wow, sounds like quite an adventure in antique ‘smithing.
Mike
Took some internal measurements today…
Freebore from case mouth to lands measuring:
.321″ lands= 3.550″
.322″ lands= 2.077″
.323″ lands= .709″; go with this for starting bullet diameter
.324″ lands= .398″; too short to seat bullet in case
I guess I’ll bump bullets up to .323″- now to source a die for my Star sizer
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
WACA #10293
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