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1894 Finger Levers
September 29, 2013
3:26 am
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Forum Posts: 17
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March 19, 2010
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Is there a difference between the finger levers on a pre 64 and a post 64 Winchester 1894?

Some time ago, I purchased a large loop lever (yes, I know that some do not like them) to better fit my bulky hands when using my reblued pre 64 carbine. It was supposed to fit both the pre 64 and the post 64 guns. When it was installed, it was a very sloppy side to side fit and required some fiddling around to get it to release the lever safety.

That said, even with its stock lever, the safety release on that gun is somewhat finiky. There is wear at the point where the lever and the safety make contact and there is also sideways slack. Can the sideways slack be shimmed out? If ys, how? If I can use the large loop lever, it will solve the wear in the finger lever issue.

I have considered trying the install on my other pre 64 carbine, but it is completely stock and I did not want to mess with it.

Thanks

Wheelgunner

October 1, 2013
9:11 am
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June 27, 2013
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WHEELGUNNER,
Don't know about pre/post levers, never tried to swap them. Never have installed a large loop lever either.
The other problem does come up occasionally.
Yes the slop can be shimmed out as follows:
With the lever installed (the trigger stop needs to be checked as well)
looking down on the bottom of the action, press the lever over gentley into contact with the inside link slot towards the trigger stop stud.
With a feeler gage measure the gap on the other side this will be the thickness less about .002" or so of the shim needed.
While at this point also check the relationship of the lever pad and the
trigger stop stud, the stud should be covered by the lever pad at least 75% while wiggling the lever side to side with the feeler gage in place
full contact is best. Do not over shim as some play is need to prevent
binding. Measure the dia. of the link screw shank. Use a drill slightly
larger .002-.005" to drill the shim stock. Easiest done by clamping the
shim stock between two pieces of scrap steel and drilling through all of it
at the same time. Next the determine o.d. needed by measuring the distance from the edge of the hole in the link and its outside edge.
For a one off job use the link screw to hold the shim stock and grind off the excess in a belt sander or bench grinder. Do this carefully and watch
your fingers. (you're making a washer shape) The slight burr can then be removed by rubbing the shim
on a flat stone.
Brass or steel shim stock can be used. The steel shim can be blacked
if desired. If the lever pad and trigger stop stud engagement is ok you
should be good to go. If not the trigger stop can also be shimmed or replaced as needed.
Tip: Best to use several shims to make up the needed thickness plus
a couple extra so you can adjust the fit.
This is the easyist way I've found. If using the original lever the groove
cut into it must be welded up and filed back to shape.
Hope this helps.
Happy shooting,
B

October 3, 2013
7:23 pm
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Forum Posts: 17
Member Since:
March 19, 2010
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BJREBUCK said
WHEELGUNNER,
Don't know about pre/post levers, never tried to swap them. Never have installed a large loop lever either.
The other problem does come up occasionally.
Yes the slop can be shimmed out as follows:
With the lever installed (the trigger stop needs to be checked as well)
looking down on the bottom of the action, press the lever over gentley into contact with the inside link slot towards the trigger stop stud.
With a feeler gage measure the gap on the other side this will be the thickness less about .002" or so of the shim needed.
While at this point also check the relationship of the lever pad and the
trigger stop stud, the stud should be covered by the lever pad at least 75% while wiggling the lever side to side with the feeler gage in place
full contact is best. Do not over shim as some play is need to prevent
binding. Measure the dia. of the link screw shank. Use a drill slightly
larger .002-.005" to drill the shim stock. Easiest done by clamping the
shim stock between two pieces of scrap steel and drilling through all of it
at the same time. Next the determine o.d. needed by measuring the distance from the edge of the hole in the link and its outside edge.
For a one off job use the link screw to hold the shim stock and grind off the excess in a belt sander or bench grinder. Do this carefully and watch
your fingers. (you're making a washer shape) The slight burr can then be removed by rubbing the shim
on a flat stone.
Brass or steel shim stock can be used. The steel shim can be blacked
if desired. If the lever pad and trigger stop stud engagement is ok you
should be good to go. If not the trigger stop can also be shimmed or replaced as needed.
Tip: Best to use several shims to make up the needed thickness plus
a couple extra so you can adjust the fit.
This is the easyist way I've found. If using the original lever the groove
cut into it must be welded up and filed back to shape.
Hope this helps.
Happy shooting,
B

BJREBUCK,

Thank you for the detailed fix. It is much appreciated. I'll give it a try.

Take Care

Wheelgunner

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