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1892 Rebuild Hurdle Hammer Not Staying Cocked
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Virginia Beach
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July 6, 2022 - 5:38 pm
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In my efforts to rebuild a basket case 1892 (1896 in 44-40), I finally got the receiver assembled. Now the hammer will not stay cocked. Frown

When the action is cycled, the hammer does go back, but it follows the bolt forward. There’s a new trigger spring and mainspring installed, but the hammer and trigger are both old. If forward pressure is maintained on the back of the trigger, the hammer stays cocked until the forward pressure is released. I can see the trigger jump slightly and the hammer springs forward. The same thing happens if the hammer is cocked by hand.

I’ve chosen the older part to replace, the hammer, but until that arrives does anyone have any suggestions as how to “adjust” or maybe troubleshoot this?

Corey

Winchester 1892 (1898)

Winchester 1894 (1956)

Winchester 1897 (1909)

Winchester 1911 (1911)

Browning A5 Sweet Sixteen (1959)

Browning Superposed (1962)

Browning Hi Power (1949 - 1954)

Browning 1910 (1910)

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July 7, 2022 - 3:33 am
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You would have to exam the hammer full cock notch as well as the trigger nose. If it is like the Model 94 then the sear has to be examined. If these engagement surfaces are rounded off, then maybe you could re-surface them.

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July 7, 2022 - 9:49 am
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Thinks for the input.

I’ll take a look, but I’m not clear on how resurfacing will help or not result in even less surface to hold once cocked? A rounded surface would allow slippage, but seems to me it’d have to be pretty obviously rounded too.

 

Both parts are older, but they were very clean when they were installed. I tried loosening the mainspring screw and it did start to help, but not to make the gun reliable. It’s also is a work around to an existing problem that I’m not willing to make.

Corey

Winchester 1892 (1898)

Winchester 1894 (1956)

Winchester 1897 (1909)

Winchester 1911 (1911)

Browning A5 Sweet Sixteen (1959)

Browning Superposed (1962)

Browning Hi Power (1949 - 1954)

Browning 1910 (1910)

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July 7, 2022 - 12:30 pm
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   It is very difficult to fix a trigger sear thing unless you have access to a like new hammer and sear. By laying one on top of the other you can easily see what’s wrong. Usually welding or replacement is required. T/R

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July 8, 2022 - 5:58 am
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If the hammer will stay on the half and full cock when cocked manually, its likely not the sear.  Most commonly the problem, as you describe whats happening, is with wear to the face of the hammer where the bolt rides over the hammer face but does not bear down enough to catch the trigger sear, causing the hammer to fall when the bolt is closed or cycled.  Ive seen this on more than a handful of occasions.  Best option is to replace the hammer.  Have also seen where the bolt may fit a little loose in the receiver rails causing it to ride up when it passes over a hammer or worn hammer and not bearing enough pressure on the hammer face enabling it to engage the sear.  The hammer is the easiest option to fix.  While your in there, would also check the sear just in case to make sure someone hasnt tinkered with it or if its broken.  However, Ive never had to replace a sear on a 92, yet.

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1892takedown @sbcglobal.net ......NRA Endowment Life Member.....WACA Member

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July 8, 2022 - 12:45 pm
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Thanks for the info.

I’ll be taking it all back apart today. A replacement hammer is proving difficult to find and expensive. I’ll check the parts over again once they’ve been removed. The bolt looks fairly new and is a very tight, but proper fit. I figured it was either the sear on the trigger or the hammer. The mainspring is very strong too, but I don’t want to mess with trying to “alter” that any.

Supposed to get my Frye’s Reagent on Monday so I can try and recover the true s/n. The receiver will remain stripped until after I’ve done that.

Corey

Winchester 1892 (1898)

Winchester 1894 (1956)

Winchester 1897 (1909)

Winchester 1911 (1911)

Browning A5 Sweet Sixteen (1959)

Browning Superposed (1962)

Browning Hi Power (1949 - 1954)

Browning 1910 (1910)

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July 10, 2022 - 4:23 pm
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I got the new trigger, but haven’t tried it yet.

I cleaned up the hammer and trigger surfaces. Then I assembled the mainspring, lower tang, and hammer only. The hammer will soundly half cock and doesn’t sound as positive going into full cock. It will stay in full cock, but the slightest pressure on the trigger will release it.

I’ll get the second trigger installed and do the same test to see if things improve.

Corey

Winchester 1892 (1898)

Winchester 1894 (1956)

Winchester 1897 (1909)

Winchester 1911 (1911)

Browning A5 Sweet Sixteen (1959)

Browning Superposed (1962)

Browning Hi Power (1949 - 1954)

Browning 1910 (1910)

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July 13, 2022 - 11:42 am
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Just a quick update.

I replaced the trigger and that luckily seemed to do the trick. Hammer now stays cocked until the trigger is pulled. Yes the one pin cover screw isn’t installed, but I do have it.

 

Now there’s one more try at the s/n recovery and putting everything else back on it. I’m looking forward to trying to re-blue the entire gun.

 

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Corey

Winchester 1892 (1898)

Winchester 1894 (1956)

Winchester 1897 (1909)

Winchester 1911 (1911)

Browning A5 Sweet Sixteen (1959)

Browning Superposed (1962)

Browning Hi Power (1949 - 1954)

Browning 1910 (1910)

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