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Moved from the “Rifle forum” : Hi folks, new member – first post. I have a question about the hammer – bolt relation on a 1886. When the bolt is fully to the rear should there clearance between the top of the hammer and the bottom of the bolt? The hammer on my rifle seems to be too high and drags on the bottom of the bolt. It binds the bolt and makes the rifle very hard to cycle. When the bolt is completely to the rear the hammer is about .160 – .170 inches lower than when it’s in the cocked position. Can I take a little metal off the hammer to let the bolt move easier ? Thanks.
Remmag,
Do not remove metal from the hammer! You will cut through the case hardening, the softer metal then will wear and eventually you may not cock the hammer when working the bolt. That is assuming you don’t remove too much to begin with and the hammer ends up not cocking. If you are requiring an unusual amount of effort to work the bolt, I would clean and lubricate (lightly) the grooves in the receiver and the appropriate rails on the bolt. Maybe a light coat of lube on the underside of the bolt where it contacts the hammer. But do not remove metal. I have never experienced what I would consider an undue amount of effort on even a dirty 1886 however. I haven’t relooked at your original posting and the answer you got then, but as I recall, it too suggested lube.
Tim Tomlinson
Remmag,
It would be very helpful if you post A picture of it from the side with the bolt all the way back so we can see what your talking about.
Bob
WACA Life Member--- NRA Life Member---- Cody Firearms member since 1991 Researching the Winchester 1873's
Email: [email protected]
Don’t know how to post pictures. Is there any internal adjustment for height of the hammer? Hammer to tang measurement at (1) full cock: .450 ;(2) bolt part way back : .280 ;(3) bolt all the all back : .400 . The difference between 1 and 2 is .170 , more then 1/6 of in inch. That much pressure on the bolt is causing the binding. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Pull the wood and take some good clear pictures from the side with the action in the different positions. You can email them to me at the below address. With out seeing what is happening its just guessing. My guess now is someone did some gunsmithing to it and it messed up.
Bob
WACA Life Member--- NRA Life Member---- Cody Firearms member since 1991 Researching the Winchester 1873's
Email: [email protected]
You’re right about the bubbasmithing. Somebody bent the tangs downward and gave this gun a huge amount of drop. Since I use the rifle for lever action silhouette and it was almost impossible to shoot I had the tangs straightened and a new stock fitted. I’ll get some pictures and send them.
Remmag,
Here is your last picture that shows the best. I also have a picture of mine as well. What I see between the two is yours is opening farther than mine. The bolt on yours travel farther back and the lever travel farther forward.
The bottom of the bolt is not flat. At the back edge of the bolt is the lowest point and its this part of the bolt that pushes the hammer down so the sear catches the hammer. The the farther the bolt goes back it takes the pressure off the hammer. When mine is full open I can get a .020″ feller gauge between the hammer and bolt. Here is another thing to try. Rack the gun with the hammer forward and then rack the gun with the hammer already cocked and see how much difference in force between the two. Another question is where in the cycle is the most force needed?
Bob
WACA Life Member--- NRA Life Member---- Cody Firearms member since 1991 Researching the Winchester 1873's
Email: [email protected]
That receiver has been re-color case hardened. If the temperatures were too high, distortion on the frame may be the cause of the stiff action. Even at careful temperatures, recolored pieces can need a lot of fitting. If it’s still difficult cycling with the hammer already cocked, I’d suspect that’s the cause.
Looks to me that it has a screw trough the locking levers. Not the proper split pin and bushing.
Not an expert just looks different than any of mine.
Yes, the back of the bolt is the lowest. The middle bottom is cut-away, good clearance. Then as the bolt is fully to rear, there is a low spot on the bolt that pushes the hammer down and causes the bind. Rusty, yes it has been re-color case harden. When I had the tangs straightened, I had a complete restoration done. That’s not the problem, because it was like that before the restoration. Bob, the point of most force is just as I start to pull the lever back to close the action. Do you think I can remove a little metal from the bolt at the point where it binds? Thanks everybody for the help!!!
FWIW, this is a 1889 date of manufacture, cal. .38-56 rifle, ser # 35939.
Remmag said
Yes, the back of the bolt is the lowest. The middle bottom is cut-away, good clearance. Then as the bolt is fully to rear, there is a low spot on the bolt that pushes the hammer down and causes the bind. Rusty, yes it has been re-color case harden. When I had the tangs straightened, I had a complete restoration done. That’s not the problem, because it was like that before the restoration. Bob, the point of most force is just as I start to pull the lever back to close the action. Do you think I can remove a little metal from the bolt at the point where it binds? Thanks everybody for the help!!!
I think that is your problem. The bolt is going to far back and the hammer is starting to ride on the bolt again which is shouldn’t. The problem is going to be internal and its going to take a good gunsmith that knows 86’s to find what Bubba screwed up inside. As Oldgrayguns pointed out the pin in lever has been replaced so my guess there is going to be more issues inside.
Bob
WACA Life Member--- NRA Life Member---- Cody Firearms member since 1991 Researching the Winchester 1873's
Email: [email protected]
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Remmag, I would borrow a working original 86 from a friend, completely disassemble both receivers and compare parts. If that’s not possible go to someone that can. Guns that are messed with usually have multiple modifications making repair difficult. T/R
TR, that’s a good idea; just need to find another ’86. Think I’ll take to the smith that did the restoration and see what he thinks.
Have you tried loosening or removing the screw that holds the loading gate/dust cover. I have seen these screws that were a little long cause a similar problem.
Same with cartridge guide screws.
Dominic
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