I acquired an all-original Model 92 that has a few “dry” spots/areas on the wood. The wood finish is the original oil finish. Ive been using the John Kay Winchester Oil to refinish some of my other stocks that had been previously refinished poorly and really love this oil. Is it OK to add a coat or two of this oil to my original finished stocks in order to take care of the dryness and maintain them or, is that a big no-no to collectors? This rifle is not collector quality but is original and a fine shooting rifle. Seems like I read at one time that it was considered general maintenance to rub a coat of linseed oil into the wood about once per year to make them weather resistance. What do you guys think?
When I wipe down my guns a couple times a year I just take the oil rag used to wipe down the metal and use it to wipe down the wood. About once a year I will put a coat of Old West Snake oil on the gun and call it good.
1892takedown @sbcglobal.net ......NRA Endowment Life Member.....WACA Member
"God is great.....beer is good.....and people are crazy"... Billy Currington
Cliff,
I wouldn’t use anything that will build up over time. I use just like Chris uses, Snake oil and then a oil at times.
Bob
WACA Life Member--- NRA Life Member---- Cody Firearms member since 1991 Researching the Winchester 1873's
Email: [email protected]
Rubbing the stock with linseed oil will both clean old dirt from the stock as well as refurbish the areas where the original oil finish has worn thin. Assuming the gun you are referring to is an old Winchester that had it’s stock finished with linseed oil and that the worn areas aren’t missing any color, you are simply reconditioning the wood with the same oil that was originally used. I’d use a mixture of 50/50 linseed oil and mineral spirits.
"This is the West, sir. When the legend becomes fact, print the legend."
Wincacher said
Rubbing the stock with linseed oil will both clean old dirt from the stock as well as refurbish the areas where the original oil finish has worn thin. Assuming the gun you are referring to is an old Winchester that had it’s stock finished with linseed oil and that the worn areas aren’t missing any color, you are simply reconditioning the wood with the same oil that was originally used. I’d use a mixture of 50/50 linseed oil and mineral spirits.
thanks for the tip! I think I will go that route. It definitely has a factory oil finish and the color is uniform. Just some dry looking spots here and there.
Wincacher said
Rubbing the stock with linseed oil will both clean old dirt from the stock as well as refurbish the areas where the original oil finish has worn thin. Assuming the gun you are referring to is an old Winchester that had it’s stock finished with linseed oil and that the worn areas aren’t missing any color, you are simply reconditioning the wood with the same oil that was originally used. I’d use a mixture of 50/50 linseed oil and mineral spirits.
Wincacher said
Rubbing the stock with linseed oil will both clean old dirt from the stock as well as refurbish the areas where the original oil finish has worn thin. Assuming the gun you are referring to is an old Winchester that had it’s stock finished with linseed oil and that the worn areas aren’t missing any color, you are simply reconditioning the wood with the same oil that was originally used. I’d use a mixture of 50/50 linseed oil and mineral spirits.
I agree except that you should use boiled linseed oil. Non boiled will not dry but instead get gummy. Keep adding coats of oil until it won’t soak in any more. If it needs more sheen hand buff and I mean only using your hand until you put some heat into it.
cwachter said
Wincacher said
Rubbing the stock with linseed oil will both clean old dirt from the stock as well as refurbish the areas where the original oil finish has worn thin. Assuming the gun you are referring to is an old Winchester that had it’s stock finished with linseed oil and that the worn areas aren’t missing any color, you are simply reconditioning the wood with the same oil that was originally used. I’d use a mixture of 50/50 linseed oil and mineral spirits.I agree except that you should use boiled linseed oil. Non boiled will not dry but instead get gummy. Keep adding coats of oil until it won’t soak in any more. If it needs more sheen hand buff and I mean only using your hand until you put some heat into it.
Couldn’t agree more on the BLO. I didn’t specify BLO because quite frankly, I wasn’t aware that non-boiled linseed oil was readily available but upon looking it up on the internet I see that pure linseed is not that hard to find. Also, I only use BLO when rescuing an original Winchester finish. In cases where the entire finish needs to be re-done, I always use tung oil as it if far superior to BLO.
"This is the West, sir. When the legend becomes fact, print the legend."
November 7, 2015

I don’t know but I suspect gun maintenance in generations past involved an occasional coat of new oil on an oil-finished firearm. My hand-made kitchen knives need a fresh coat from time to time and the ones I’ve built for other folks have been known to come home to roost for a fresh coat now and then. Seems to me the old school regimen for a new oil finish is a coat a day for a week; a coat a week for a month and a coat a year for life.
Mike
KeltonCA said
I bought some Boiled Linseed Oil at the hardware store and used it on the stocks of my 1873 and they looked so much better. They “drank” quite a bit of it, too.
Sounds like the wood really needed that treatment. “Drank” is a very good way to put it.
"This is the West, sir. When the legend becomes fact, print the legend."
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